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Topic: Repositioning of pedal and/or lever on MSA D-10. |
Bob Gaffin
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Posted 15 Aug 2007 1:24 pm |
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Hello- I have just purchased an MSA D-10 and am finding the positions of the A pedal relative to the left-most lever to be uncomfortable for me; also the width between the A and B pedals seems too wide.
The position of the left lever seems to make me have to move to the left of where I should be sitting and have to turn my leg to the left moreso than I should; the distance between pedals A and B also seems too wide; my foot width just doesn't seem to work well with this gap width and seems to fall between them when trying to press both with my left foot.
Can both or either of these things be changed? |
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Jim Eaton
From:
Santa Susana, Ca
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Posted 15 Aug 2007 1:36 pm
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Yes, they can be changed. A photo posted here will aid in getting you better advise.
If your having trouble with the space between the A & B pedals, it sounds like someone may have already done some swapping around with them. I have never seen an MSA with pedals so far apart that one foot would not work fine.
JE:-)> |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 15 Aug 2007 1:55 pm
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I'm going to guess you're a new player. The pedal spacing on the old MSA's isn't what I'd call "wide", since there's only an inch-and-a-half space between them, you'd have to be wearing pretty pointy shoes to fit between there!  As far as the knee-lever placement, that is something that's a problem for many players, especially if you're playing an Emmons setup. While the pedals can be moved by any experienced tech, that really shouldn't be necessary. As far as the knee levers are concerned, they can be put almost anywhere you want them, again...by an experienced tech.
All this to say most anything can be done, but should only be done after an appropriate "familiarization period" with the instrument has elapsed. If you modify your own instrument too soon and too much, you'll reduce it's value, and you'll also become uncomfortable playing anything else. That puts you at a decided disadvantage when trying someone else's guitar. |
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Harvey Richman
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 15 Aug 2007 6:36 pm msa pedals and levers
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Hello Bob. Though not that experienced a steel player myself, I'll add my two cents. First, I think the MSA is wonderful instrument (if a bit too heavy). Most of these guitars (like mine) have 10 brackets where the pedals can be attached. Standard seems to be for the leftmost one to be open and for the A,B,C pedals to occupy the 2nd thru 4th positions (left to right). If your ABC pedals are further to the right than that (unusual), then your lever problem makes sense and you might want to shift the pedals left one space. Before you start moving levers around (which is really not that easy on an msa), you can bring the lever closer to your knee by loosening the allen screw where it attaches to the crossrod and rotating the knee lever counterclockwise a bit. Careful loosening that screw, on these older guitars they can be in there pretty tight. The lever will now sit at a little bit of an angle but will be closer to your knee. I actually find the standard msa setup very comfortable. It might feel more comfortable to you with a little time.
Regards
Harvey |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 15 Aug 2007 8:09 pm
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It's strange how factory setups vary on similar guitars. I had an MSA Classic D10 where the LKL was a bit to the *right* of the "C" pedal - making it virtually unplayable. As I it was my first "real" steel (after a couple of forays into hopeless Mavericks and unidentified modified gadgetry) I was sure at first it was just me...but as more people looked at pics of it the more obvious it was that something was flat wrong. I decided not to fix it, as the weight was unbearable, and swapped it to someone willing to mess with it.
Maybe the same person installed the levers on both guitars and compensated for one goof by making another in the opposite direction.....hoping it would average out...
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Mike Perlowin
From:
Los Angeles CA
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Posted 16 Aug 2007 2:28 am
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The knee levers moving to the left are mounted on cross shafts and can always be taken off moved to a different one (not an easy job, but not impossible). But the ones moving to the right are mounted against the inside of the back of the guitar, and have an intricate reverse mechanism that is similarly mounted. If they can be moved at all, which I doubt, it would require a major overhaul of the guitar.
I strongly suggest that you don't touch the knee levers that move to the right.
_________________
Please visit my web site and Soundcloud page and listen to the music posted there.
http://www.mikeperlowin.com http://soundcloud.com/mike-perlowin |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 16 Aug 2007 7:31 pm
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| Mike Perlowin wrote: |
| ...the ones moving to the right are mounted against the inside of the back of the guitar, and have an intricate reverse mechanism that is similarly mounted. If they can be moved at all, which I doubt, it would require a major overhaul of the guitar. |
Not as an argument, but more as a "point of information":
Though some may think it's not an easy job to move that "reversing mechanism", it' well within the capabilities of any good steel tech. However, in most cases - it's not necessary. Movement of the levers an inch or two (often enough to feel more comfortable) can easily be done without moving the reversing mechanism, due to the several-inch spacing between the lever and the reversing mechanism. I've even hooked up knee levers on old MSA's to pivot on cross-rods that they're not even activating. Those round cross-rods offer many easy "accomodations" that might be far more challenging on a guitar with square cross-rods. |
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Mike Perlowin
From:
Los Angeles CA
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Posted 16 Aug 2007 9:31 pm
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Donny, I bow to your greater knowledge and experience in these kinds of things. I know that you know what you're talking about, and if you say the levers that go to the right can be moved, then I must assume you are correct.
But I am under the impression that Bob was talking about doing it himself, and we agree that this is not a good idea. As you said, a job like this must be done by am experienced steel guitar technician who knows what he is doing.
Bob, I still say, don't try this yourself. Take the guitar to professional steel guitar mechanic.
_________________
Please visit my web site and Soundcloud page and listen to the music posted there.
http://www.mikeperlowin.com http://soundcloud.com/mike-perlowin |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 17 Aug 2007 5:23 am
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| Quote: |
| Bob, I still say, don't try this yourself. Take the guitar to professional steel guitar mechanic. |
I agree. I'd say try to learn to use what you have, first, because that's the way a majority of steels are set up. If, after a period of time (about 3-6 months), it's still uncomfortable, then see about getting it changed. I do believe the "Day" setup is easier for some to use because it places the most commonly used (split) pedals nearer the center of the guitar. |
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Danny Hullihen
From:
Harrison, Michigan
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Posted 17 Aug 2007 6:14 am MSA D-10
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This guitar has the "standard" MSA set up. The pedals are Emmons set up, the knee levers are Sho-Bud. No modifications have been made to this guitar.
I believe the owner has been use to playing a pedal guitar with no knee levers, so it's probably just a matter of him getting use to a more modern type of steel guitar with pedals and knee levers.
I agree that no modifications should be attempted on this guitar by someone who is not experienced with the mechanics. |
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