More Stringmaster questions

Craig Hawks · From: North Ridgeville, Ohio, USA

If you can stand some more Stringmaster conversation, I have a few quesitons.

I've come to understand that if I remove the tuner pan, the year of creation should be written in pencil. The other quesiton I have is, should the compartment where the tuner pan sits, be bare wood with the year written on the bare wood? Or is it painted with the year written on the paint? (I'm trying to figure out if I have a re-finished unit or not.)

Next, what should I use to clean the painted wood body of the Stringmaster?

Same question on the fret board and chrome?

Finally, I know that from a collectors point of view, the more original parts on the guitar the more desirable. Yet, the screws that hold the tuning pan and other parts look pretty bad. Am I "ruining" the guitar from a collectability standpoint if I replace items like that? Frankly, I still haven't figured out if I want this guitar to be a fun and playable instrument or a somewhat collectable display type thing. Of course, knowing the people that come to my house, they'd never recognize what it way anyway, so maybe I should just get over this whole originality/collectability thing. Opinions are most welcome!

Ron Victoria · From: New Jersey, USA

On the ones I looked at, there was some finish under the pan, maybe just primer and the date written on that. On the champions I've seen, there was tape. You can change screws, just keep the original parts. I just use a soft rag. I'm sure the more experienced members will give some feedback in this area. You should be able to tell if it was refinished.

Ron

Craig Hawks · From: North Ridgeville, Ohio, USA

This one has the compartment painted exactly as the body is painted. The compartment below the pickups is lined with foil.

You'd think I'd be able to tell if it was refinished, but it isn't real obvious. I'm going to take photo's of it completely apart and upload them to my site. I'll then provide a link for folks to see and comment on.

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

Craig---just a thought on one part of your post. The biggest mistake I have made in guitar buying was a Ric Silver Hawaiian I purchased a few years ago. Beautiful guitar although I don't think it's my cup of tea, sonically. One of the big factors that put me over the top and moved me to buy it was its nearly mint condition. This baby just gleamed--its chrome filled me with lust in my heart (to paraphrase an ex-prez). A true under-the-bed find. Well, I paid top dollar (not killer $$ but still...) and when I got it I immediately realized that like a new car, every scratch I put on it was going to depreciate its value! I so strongly believe that an instrument is meant to make music but when I touch this guitar I start trembling and worry that I will drop it. Which renders it an utterly useless (but beautiful) object. I don't need the cash right now but I have resigned myself to the reality that this guitar will not be played--it will be saved and either enjoyed as a collectible or sold to a collector. But this sure goes against my grain. Never again. I will always pit my lust against my musical gut and the gut must and shall be the ultimate judge.
Most certainly this is just me--I will not preach at anyone on this. But it was a good lesson for me.

BTW--I think my Stringmaster's cavities are bare wood. I'll have to check.

[This message was edited by Jon Light on 26 February 2005 at 01:31 PM.]

Craig Hawks · From: North Ridgeville, Ohio, USA

I believe that I am in the midst of that exact lesson! Thanks!!

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

I hear you. Just lifted a control cavity. It's hard to tell. Light colored wood, blonde finish--there's definitely some gloss in there. It may be clear top coat, it may be overspray from the color coat, it may be the fact that there was no need/point in doing any finishing, sanding, or grain sealing inside the routed cavity so the rough surface just shows the finish differently---if your cavity looks like it's truly finished then I would venture a guess that a refinisher took a more serious and conscientious approach to the task than Fender did (said without judgement, Jody--relax!) and overdid the job. But that's just a speculation--I have no real knowledge on the subject.

Rick Alexander · From: Florida, USA, R.I.P.

All 3 of my Stringmasters have unpainted wood under the tuner pans, with the month & year written under the top pan in green marker. So if the pan cavity is completely painted, this could indicate that the guitar has been refinished.
RA

[This message was edited by Rick Alexander on 26 February 2005 at 01:55 PM.]

Joey Ace · From: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada

On my D-8, the date is written in pencil on unfinished wood. There is a light a clear finish over the date.

Craig Hawks · From: North Ridgeville, Ohio, USA

That's what I was thinking Rick. Joey, thanks for the photo. Mine doesn't look like that. But, I'll post photo's later during assembly.

How about cleaning the body and such. What do you guys use?

Also, how about the foil lined compartment user the switch/pickup area. Do you guys have that?

[This message was edited by Craig Hawks on 26 February 2005 at 02:40 PM.]

I'm kinda glad it's been refinished. Then I can stop focusing on the collectability and just enjoy playing the darn thing!

[This message was edited by Craig Hawks on 26 February 2005 at 02:42 PM.]

Rick Collins · From: Claremont , CA USA

Craig,

I have an originally finished 26" scale triple Stringmaster. I went over the entire finished surface with rubbing alcohol, including the decal. It "lightened-up" the color about two or three shades, (mine's blonde).

I don't know if this lowered the value or no; but it sure looks a lot better.

I then polished the finish with car polish.

Rick

Rick Alexander · From: Florida, USA, R.I.P.

Craig, if you have to use something more than a soft slightly damp cloth - try Lemon Pledge (a very small amount on the cloth, not directly on the guitar). Wax beauty instantly as you dust . .

Rick Alexander
Big Steel

[This message was edited by Rick Alexander on 26 February 2005 at 07:08 PM.]

Craig Hawks · From: North Ridgeville, Ohio, USA

I should have probable made this clear. This is a really dirty, dusty guitar. Like it's been in a corner outside the case for a very long time. So, I've got to take it all apart to get it cleaned up.

Rick, the Pledge will have to be the final process. I guess the alchohol will have to be the main cleaner. I'm just worried about removing the paint. So, I'll try to be gentle.

I assume the chrome parts are really chrome and not stainless steel, right? So I can use real chrome cleaner.

Rick Collins · From: Claremont , CA USA

Craig,

Another thing:
When you remove the screws, take some fine sandpaper and hold it in the palm of one hand and polish the screwheads. They should clean up good. I believe they are stainless steel.

Rick

Ricky Davis · From: Bertram, Texas USA

Yes the Stringmasters were not painted in the cavities; but were spray lacquered after the body was painted and the date written. Sometimes they forgot to put the date in there after lacquering; so you might find a piece of masking tape with the date written. Do not use any alcohol based cleaner on the body as you will remove the paint with it; as that is a very thin coating of lacquer by now. The tuning pans and mounting plates are chrome plated cast steel; so yes, use mothers mag and chrome polish for that. If there is not foil tape under the mounting plates; than it was removed when someone repainted/finished the steel, most likely. You do need that and can get it a a hardware store or just used aluminum foil and make sure there's a little foil overlaping to the top; so that the plate touches it when laid and screwed back down. You will also remove the screened paint on the fretboards if you use any alcohol based cleaner. I use "Orange Blast" degreaser/cleaner diluted; to clean all parts. Than use a wood moisturizer like Old English Lemon Oil; to moisturize the old lacquer; than use pledge or car wax cleaner like Meguiar's cleaner wax and polish it on up.
Rick C had a good solution to clean the screw head tops; I also do this; but I use Scotch brite pads; but a light sand paper is fine. But if you have a good ole hardware store in your town like a True value or similar; they have "round top" or "oval top" phillips wood screws that are a perfect replacement.
Also; you'll want to scotch brite then polish with mothers; the bridge and bridge nut.
Well that's all I can think of at this point> so what do you have? A double or triple?? what is the scale length measured from top middle of bridge nut to top middle of the bridge????;
Go get'um.

------------------
Ricky Davis

Rebel™ and Ricky's Audio Clips
www.mightyfinemusic.com
Email Ricky: sshawaiian@austin.rr.com

Dan Sawyer · From: Studio City, California, USA

Craig, please please do not use alcohol to clean your guitar. It may ruin the finish. If it is really dirty, you can use some naptha (lighter fluid) on a small cloth and carefully clean just the painted wooden body avoiding the decals. But the best product for vintage instruments that i have found (and i've tried almost all of them) is called "Virtuoso". It has two parts. One bottle is a cleaner and the other one is a polish.
http://www.virtuosopolish.com/

[This message was edited by Dan Sawyer on 26 February 2005 at 11:20 PM.]

Gary Boyett · From: Colorado

Go with Ricky and Dan- Been there- done that!

My D-8 had soo much nicotine on it when I got it I thought I was going to have to get it a new lung. After cleaning it looks great! Take your time, let everything dry completly before you re-assemble. And cover it when you are not playing!!!!!!!

------------------
JCFSC member since 2005
D-8 Stringmaster
Fender Dual Pro

Craig Hawks · From: North Ridgeville, Ohio, USA

Thanks so much guys!!!

It's a D-8. Would 24 1/2" make sense? Here's the eBay auction number if it's still around 3777104513. I was whining about it on a different thread. What actually showed up in the mail was a different guitar (even the color was different). Additionally, the one that showed up, the neck selector switch doesn't work so only the bottom neck worked out of the box. The upper neck also has been modified so that the neck pick up was disconnected from the circuit. Only the bridge pickup is connected and it bypass the blender pot and goes straigh to the switch. The resistance of the neck pickup is zero, so that's why the disconnected it.

The seller was down right hostile, so I'm in the process of disputing the charge with the credit card company. However, I'm also a little more settled down and maybe with a cooler head I'm starting to see that this guitar, although misrepresented, might turn out to be a "ok" deal in the long run. Even after after having to shell out for a pickup rewind, selector switch and maybe a blender pot (if I can find one).

I plan to take it apart this week and photo the inside and outside. I'll post the photo's on my web server (found out you can't just post em here) and send you guys the link for opinions on what's what with this guitar.

Again, thank for the help!!!

A couple of additional details. Mine does NOT have a decal (big tip off to me that it's a refinish. And I expected that based on eBay photo's. I did expect electronics to work though). Mine is a white finish and nice one at that. And the case is black!

[This message was edited by Craig Hawks on 27 February 2005 at 06:18 AM.]

Rick Collins · From: Claremont , CA USA

Ricky, Dan, and Craig,

Apparently sometimes alcohol will damage the lacquer finish. However, I have never had this experience. Maybe I've been fortunate to always get a Fender product with a very good coat of lacquer.

I went over the lacquer of my 1954 original finish 26" triple Stringmaster with alcohol three times; and it cleaned it up like magic. It now looks like it is about three years old, with apparently no damage to the finish.

This I accomplished by using a small amount of alcohol and rubbing lightly three times over three days, letting it dry over night each time.

I polished mine on the fourth day.

Rick

Ricky Davis · From: Bertram, Texas USA

Hey Rick; no worries man. I guess the two times I tried it; it was bad results and never tried it again out of close to 50 steels that I've cleaned. Maybe it would of worked on some others; but I didn't want to risk it. Craig; yes 24 1/2" scale is the middle scale stringmaster. The Black case you said it came with; is also NOT the original case. I'm now going to guess that it is a '56 or '57 stringmaster; but if the date got painted over; then one will never know for sure.
I do wish I knew you were considering buying this one; as I possibly could of looked at it and told you what was what with it.
Good luck in your quest to make it right.
Ricky

Rick Collins · From: Claremont , CA USA

Ricky,

...not to belabor the alcohol theory; but I believe the secret is to take it slowly and use minimal alcohol.

I used cotton with a little alcohol; like I said, at three separate times.

My triple-neck was really oxydized and grimmy. I knew I would not play the guitar in public like it looked; so I decided that if I ruined the finish, I would just refinish it.

I agree the alcohol does react chemically with the lacquer. After you remove the grime there remains the microscopic layer of super oxydized lacquer. To lighten the butterscotch look (which I don't like) as much of this as possible had to be removed.

...looks great now.

Rick

[This message was edited by Rick Collins on 28 February 2005 at 09:58 AM.]

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