3rd string breakage. 25.5” scale guitar (Losing my mind!)

Eric Long · From: Bay Area, California, USA

Ok, I know this has been covered and please rest assured that I’ve read and re-read all of the pertinent threads on this subject here on the forum. Im hoping that other long scale excel players can chime in and we can put this to bed…

Long scale players… specifically what gauge and brand string do you use with success on your 3rd string.

I’m at my wits end trying to get a G# to hold. It’s the only string that breaks on my 25 1/2” Excel Superb S12. That said, once I get one to hold it will last maybe 3 months before breaking. For the past two days I’ve tried to get one to hold and I’ve gone through just about as many singles strings as the hairs I’ve pulled out of my head. Yesterday I finally got an 11 to hold and I got about 3 hours of practice on it today before it snapped.

Every time I break one I dread getting another to hold. It’s many hours of slow frustration.

I’m trying both D’Addario .011s and .010s and neither are holding. Strings break randomly (not in the same place) so it’s definitely not a burr but a tension issue.

I go through the full process of tuning up to F# and pedal the string to stretch it. Then I tune up in semi-tone increments until I get to G# whereby I make sure I’m not pedaling past an A as I know the string is nearly at its breaking point.

I have not yet tried 12s, but there was a previous thread where someone said that’s what they used.

Sorry to drum up this old problem, but I’m hoping a new thread will help bring some clarity to others with the same issue.

I’m at the point in my PSG journey where I’m starting to gig and get session work and it’s awful to think about breaking my 3rd, only to not be able to get another to hold.

Thanks so much.

Eric Long · From: Bay Area, California, USA

Had a D’Addario high carbon steel 11 holding for about 20 minutes and it snapped and cut me pretty good this time.

Feeling very frustrated that I can’t just practice… I’m probably on my 10th string at this point over the course of the past two days. Breaks in a different place every time.

Steve Mueller · From: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA

I'd try a NYXL 12, they're the strongest strings made. If that breaks..........
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Glenn Taylor · From: Denver, CO, USA

I know this is a big leap and maybe something you don't even want to think about, but tuning down would solve your problem. I use a 25" scale and I've been playing extended D9 for many years. .012" on the 3rd string and I never break strings.
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Bob Carlucci · From: Candor, New York, USA

Eric Long · From: Bay Area, California, USA

Thanks for the advice Steve. If no one else chimes in with a string recommendation I’ll try a NYXL .12

Eric Long · From: Bay Area, California, USA

Thanks for the advice on switching down to D9. I’d really love to not have to do this but totally understand that it would solve the issue. I’ve played 6 string guitar for my whole life so there’s an “E” based intuition as far as fret markings go that would take me a bit to get used to.

Pat Moore · From: Virginia USA

Hey Eric,
where are these strings breaking? At the changer end or the tuning key end. FWIW, I don't have a longer scale guitar, however, for a short while I was having an issue with 3rd breaking. I finally realized I didn't have enough wraps on the tuning key post so I added about 3 or so extra wraps and that took care of it!
Also a few years ago I switched to "Live Steel" strings and haven't had ANY break, and better tone as well! GREAT strings!!!
I hope this helps you.
Thx, Pat

Ricky Davis · From: Bertram, Texas USA

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Jack Stoner · From: Kansas City, MO

Never had a bad George L's 3rd string break in nearly 35 years using George L's strings.

I switched to SIT's after getting a GFI and so far no issues.

I suspect its not a string brand issue.

Mike Vallandigham · From: Martinez, CA

Eric, what year (approx) is your guitar? Can you post a photo?

I have a long scale Excel S12 and I had issues until I smoothed out some edges.

Another MUST is that you pre-stretch the string. I use a nail in a vice for the ball end and a pair of vice grips to pull on the other end.

What this does is it now takes less movement of the tuning head lever, which decreases the break angle up there. If you have to wind the tuner all the way down, this definitely can cause the string to touch where it shouldn't and can cause breaks.

Bill Ferguson · From: Milton, FL USA

Eric, if you don't want to step all the way to a .012, you could try the .011.5.

I sell George L's strings and have been using them for 40 years. Would never consider switching.

If you would like, I will send you an .011.5 and .012 to try out.
If you like them, then just maybe I would gain a new customer.

Drop me an email

Regards,
Bill Ferguson
bferguson1947@gmail.com
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Erv Niehaus · From: Litchfield, MN, USA

Is your Excel keyless?
Erv

Tim Hurst · From: Newport, TN

You might even go the opposite route and try a
.010 for the third string. Worth a try if you are reluctant to tune down.

Larry Phleger · From: DuBois, PA

I had this issue with my Mullen PRP S12. I talked with Herby Wallace about it, and he told me to wind the string up to 12 turns around the tuner capstan before bringing it all the way up to pitch. I have been doing this ever since, and have had no more breakage problems.

Eric Long · From: Bay Area, California, USA

Andrew Goulet · Posted 16 Feb 2022 9:30 am

I'll join the others in recommending that you tune down to D. I made the switch years ago and after a short readjustment, it was completely natural. I found that this adjustment was, in the end, less work and gave me more confidence when gigging or in the studio. I haven't broken a string in 8 or 9 years.
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Eric Long · From: Bay Area, California, USA

Eric Long · From: Bay Area, California, USA

Sorry for not including this in the original post but my S12 is keyless.

Scott Swartz · From: St. Louis, MO

Online string tension calculators show 28.3 lbs for for a .010 at 25-1/2 which is less than the 31 lbs on a .011 at the typical 24-1/4 scale, but there could be other effects as mentioned break angles etc.

Did you ever try a .009 to see if that holds? Not sure what the tone would be like.
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Bill Ferguson · From: Milton, FL USA

Why not contact Bill Stafford or Steve Sanford. They are both the Excel guru's in the US.

I'm sure you are not the only one that has encountered this problem.
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AUTHORIZED George L's, Goodrich, Telonics and Peavey Dealer: I have 2 steels and several amps. My current rig of choice is 1993 Emmons LeGrande w/ 108 pups (Jack Strayhorn built for me), Goodrich OMNI Volume Pedal, George L's cables, Goodrich Baby Bloomer and Peavey Nashville 112. Can't get much sweeter.

Mike Vallandigham · From: Martinez, CA

Eric,
Stretching the string first will reduce how far you have to screw the tuner down. See how far the third tuner is back, compared to all the others? If you stretch it first and take care to pull it as tight as you can before locking it down and tuning, it might help. I used a dowel to pull the string tight. You also have to pull the finger back, while pulling and while locking it down.
If you don't pull the finger back, that's a bunch of extra slack you have to take up with the tuner.

I think the extra length doesn't help.

I have the same year guitar (same keyhead, etc) and this is the one I had issues with - but don't any more.

You need three hands, or two and your mouth.

I do this:
-pre stretch the string (I do teh top 4 strings)
-make sure the ball is seated in the tuning head end.
-thread the other end thru the holes, wrap around a dowel
-put the wrench in the locking hole - get it close to locked.
-reach under with one had and pull the finger all the way back
-pull that sucker tight with the dowel
-lock the grub screw with your mouth. Or get a friend.

This will put the string much closer to final pitch, and you won't have to run that sucker down so far.

It's not a burr - per say - but when you screw that tuner down, the string gets on to a ledge down in there.

I know you say they break at other places, but - yeah, this might solve some issues.

I'd be happy to take a look - gimme a holler.

This design changed shortly after these were made, the newer guitars are much easier to string.

Mike Vallandigham · From: Martinez, CA

Also, if this guitar as the adjustable anti-detuning mechanism, you might want to back that thing all the way off on the third string, it might be pulling too much to counteract and putting too much tension on the string when using the B pedal.

Just to see if it helps.

Bob Carlucci · From: Candor, New York, USA

i dunno.. a scale length of 25 1/2 is long for an E9 pedal steel with a high G# third.. Putting a thicker string on and creating even more tension??... Still like the idea of dropping down a tone...
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Eric Long · From: Bay Area, California, USA

RE: Mike Vallandigham

I've got a pretty good system for getting the string stretched and held in place with the little grub screw. The photo I posted was pretty old and I can get it much more taught before tightening the string down. I really don't think this is the problem.

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