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Author Topic:  Speaker Wire
Jim Saunders


From:
Houston, Texas, U.S.A.
Post  Posted 14 Jul 2020 6:00 pm    
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I need to add a couple inches of speaker wire on my NV112 to give it some slack to the speaker connections. Somehow along the way the wires have been shortened. Question: what is the correct wire guage and does the extention need a solder connection or just a twist?
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Steve Hinson

 

From:
Hendersonville Tn USA
Post  Posted 14 Jul 2020 7:09 pm     Re: Speaker Wire
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Jim Saunders wrote:
I need to add a couple inches of speaker wire on my NV112 to give it some slack to the speaker connections. Somehow along the way the wires have been shortened. Question: what is the correct wire guage and does the extention need a solder connection or just a twist?


Jim,after trying a couple different speakers,I went back to the"Blue Marvel"that came in it...

I had snipped off the connectors,so I got some"automotive"type crimp spade connectors...I think the ones on the speaker are"male",so I guess you need"female"connectors...my amp is in my locker,so I can't look at it to see,but I believe I used the"10-12"size...

Hope this helps...

SH
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Jim Saunders


From:
Houston, Texas, U.S.A.
Post  Posted 14 Jul 2020 7:27 pm     Hey There
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Steve, thanks. Yes, it has a EPS-12c speaker, which sounds great, although not much, if any, better than the Blue Marvel. But, it is a bit lighter. 6#?

I will get some 12guage wire and add 4" with a coupler and a male connector.
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Jeff Highland

 

From:
New South Wales, Australia
Post  Posted 14 Jul 2020 7:49 pm    
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If you have a soldering iron then solder and heatshink any joints. Way better than non professional crimp joints.
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 14 Jul 2020 8:06 pm    
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If you're using only a few feet of wire, almost any stranded wire will do. Using 16-gauge lamp cord is about as good as it gets. Even 18-gauge is fine for combo amps where the speaker's in the same cabinet as the amp. Use crimp terminals or solder the wires, as just twisting them together might eventually loosen from the vibration of playing and transport.
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Steve Hinson

 

From:
Hendersonville Tn USA
Post  Posted 14 Jul 2020 9:13 pm    
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Jeff Highland wrote:
If you have a soldering iron then solder and heatshink any joints. Way better than non professional crimp joints.


Way better?Why?

SH

(Non-Professional)
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Jeff Highland

 

From:
New South Wales, Australia
Post  Posted 14 Jul 2020 11:00 pm    
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If you have a good professional crimp tool the results are great, the results with a $10 combination cutter/stripper/ crimper are a lot less reliable due to inadequate compression.
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 15 Jul 2020 2:17 am    
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I've used a "cheap" cutter/stripper/crimper for years and never had one problem. Just make sure when you crimp the connector that its tight. Even when I worked at a NASA tracking station that is what we used.
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Bill A. Moore


From:
Silver City, New Mexico, USA
Post  Posted 15 Jul 2020 5:10 am    
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The crimp is fine if you can't pull it apart!
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Peter Harris

 

From:
South Australia, Australia
Post  Posted 15 Jul 2020 5:34 am    
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The 'trick' is in selecting crimper pliers with the appropriate profile in the jaws...
....match that to the way the terminal EXPECTS to be crimped, and it doesn't matter too much how much you pay for the crimping pliers..

The side issue is how your hands feel after doing the work, as the expensive ones will usually give you a much better mechanical advantage.

...and try your darndest to pull the terminal off the wire BEFORE you install...just to be sure, as previously mentioned.

Spoken by someone who crimps terminals by the hundred during the course of a month... ...and does have some damn expensive pliers ! Cool
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Jim Saunders


From:
Houston, Texas, U.S.A.
Post  Posted 15 Jul 2020 6:49 am     Wire Question
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Thanks guys! This forum is a great source of information.
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Mike Taylor

 

From:
Wetumpka, AL
Post  Posted 15 Jul 2020 10:44 am     Another option
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Another option would be to put a output jack on the back of the chassis [ like peavey used to have ). Then you put a normal Plug on the speaker. Never understood why they went away from that setup. I’m sure it was $$$

Mike
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Jim Saunders


From:
Houston, Texas, U.S.A.
Post  Posted 18 Jul 2020 11:52 am     Wiring
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Steve, I did what you did, and reinstalled the original Blue Marvel and stowed my EPS12-c. Hey, they are both made by Eminence! I had a conversation with Billy Phelps, who used to work with Carter Guitars and John Fabian. And, Billy told me that he and John worked with Peavey to develop the Blue Marvel for the NV112. They went through several designs of cones and voice coils before coming up with the present Blue Marvel. And, I agree, it sounds good to my faulty ears, plus the wires are the right length!
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Steve Hinson

 

From:
Hendersonville Tn USA
Post  Posted 18 Jul 2020 3:50 pm     Re: Wiring
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Jim Saunders wrote:
Steve, I did what you did, and reinstalled the original Blue Marvel and stowed my EPS12-c. Hey, they are both made by Eminence! I had a conversation with Billy Phelps, who used to work with Carter Guitars and John Fabian. And, Billy told me that he and John worked with Peavey to develop the Blue Marvel for the NV112. They went through several designs of cones and voice coils before coming up with the present Blue Marvel. And, I agree, it sounds good to my faulty ears, plus the wires are the right length!


Jim,I sure like the"Blue Marvel"better...I beta-tested the EPS,and I kept it in there a while(sure enjoyed the weight loss!)but I believe the original is best...different ain't always better,is it?

Glad it all worked out!

SH
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Godfrey Arthur

 

From:
3rd Rock
Post  Posted 20 Jul 2020 9:47 pm    
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Jeff Highland wrote:
If you have a soldering iron then solder and heatshink any joints. Way better than non professional crimp joints.



I agree with this.

Quote:
...and try your darndest to pull the terminal off the wire BEFORE you install...just to be sure,


Solder (silver if you have it) prevents oxidation on a crimp between the wire and the terminal.

But only as strong as the weakest link theory, you can also solder the wire directly to the speaker.


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Mike Marsh


From:
Florida, USA
Post  Posted 22 Jul 2020 6:57 am     Speaker Connections....
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The Wire gauge should be 18AWG min. Speaker Wire should be Stranded and its best to solder the connections on the Speaker terminals simply because AMps are oftem in the Boot of a car or in a garage between gigs which can be Humid environments making them subject to oxidation of otherwise crimped connectors. I always twist the wires, but at this power level they reject EMI, so its a practice that isnt as important as lower signal level or input grid connections.
Mike
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Jeff Highland

 

From:
New South Wales, Australia
Post  Posted 22 Jul 2020 3:31 pm    
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I'm a fan of soldered speaker connections because it's not just an inconvenience if a spade comes off.
-on a tube amp a disconnected speaker can blow the output transformer
-on a SS amp a loose spade could contact the other terminal and short out taking out the power amp stage.
-and as mike says - corrosion
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