| Author |
Topic: Can somebody please explain these technical terms... |
Charley Paul
From:
California, USA
|
Posted 16 Sep 2018 4:37 pm |
|
Hi!
I’m considering my first pedal steel, and I have a decent budget....probably up to $2500. I know that I want a single neck, e9 tuning, 10 string model. Looking at Mullen, MSA, GFI.
I keep seeing a few technical terms that I don’t understand. Can somebody help me?
The first gem looks like a multiplication problem “3x5â€. What do these numbers refer to?
I also see “keyless.†Huh?
Finally I see “push/pull.â€
What do these mean?
Thanks! |
|
|
 |
Charley Paul
From:
California, USA
|
Posted 16 Sep 2018 4:56 pm
|
|
In addition, do people prefer a steel with or without an arm rest/pad?
I like the look of an arm pad, and my intuition says it will be more comfy to play....is that true? |
|
|
|
Pat Chong
From:
New Mexico, USA
|
Posted 16 Sep 2018 5:02 pm
|
|
These are just terms you get used to as the time goes by, I guess now is the time.
1. "3X5", an expression denoting the number of pedals and knee levers. Usually the pedals are mentioned first.
2. "Keyless", the type of tuner keyhead having no tuning keys, tuning sometimes done with a screwdriver or allen wrench.
3. "Push Pull", the style of changer on the guitar. 2 others are All-Pull and Pull-Release.
4. Arm rests look comfy, but it depends how high they are. If too high, it can get in the way of smooth movement of the slide/hand.
Hope this helps............Pat.
Last edited by Pat Chong on 16 Sep 2018 5:05 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
|
|
Alan Murphy
From:
N Ireland
|
Posted 16 Sep 2018 5:03 pm
|
|
Hi Charley,
Welcome to the club..
3 X 5 is three floor pedals and 5 knee levers, a typical E9th setup of A B C floor pedals and 5 knee levers.
Usually there are ten tuning pegs (keys) on the left side of the guitar (similar to regular 6 string guitar) but it is also possible to have a mechanism where each string is gripped and moves horizontally to tune it, typically with an allen key adjustment fron the top of the guitar.
The advantage of keyless is typically a shorter lighter and more stable guitar. Sierra are well known for keyless.
The mechanism to raise and lower a string is done by the changer on the right hand side of the guitar, most guitars now are ALL pull, when you pull on one place on the changer you get a raise, a pull at a different place gives a lower.
There is usually a pivot point for each string to give this action.
A PUSH / PULL works by a pull on an inner finger gives a raise but a push on the outer finger gives a lower. (push to hit an adjustable endstop).
This mechanism is best known on the Emmons guitars, It is easier to have a complex tuning with all pull, however push / pull often holds its tuning better.
hope this helps,
alan.. |
|
|
|
Alan Murphy
From:
N Ireland
|
Posted 16 Sep 2018 5:17 pm
|
|
Hi Charley
A pad seems to be a personal preference.
Lloyd Green was one of the first players to use a pad and i believe it may have helped his distinctive palm blocking style.
I think this idea came from a twin neck guitar, but lloyd was playing mainly E9th and the rear pad probably seemed like a good idea, playing for EVERYONE in the studio meant guitar size was not so important.
Many other players don't use a pad, and prefer as small and light a guitar as possible, so no pad and keyless approaches the ultimate in portability.
If a pad is too high it can make playing difficult, but not hard to reduce the height as desired.
alan.. |
|
|
|
Danny Letz
From:
Old Glory,Texas, USA 79540
|
Posted 17 Sep 2018 4:55 am
|
|
| A guitar with a single frame & one neck is called an S10, a single neck on a double frame with a pad is a SD10, a double neck is a D10. You have to get your knees a little farther forward up under the guitar to reach the levers on a S10. Also some folks have trouble changing from a D10 to a S10 because they are used to resting their arms on the back neck. I have all three & I do fine with all of them. I’d get a S10 or Sd10 with 3 & 5, conventional tuning keys & most all being built today are all pulls. Try to sit behind someone’s normal height guitar & see if that’s right for you. If you can, go to a Steel show or a jam and sit behind them. Even most Steelers are willing to show off their guitar help out with info. Watch out though because some of us are wierd. Lol |
|
|
|
Charley Paul
From:
California, USA
|
Posted 17 Sep 2018 6:43 am
|
|
Well, this has been very helpful. Thanks so much. Now I just have to decide which steel to get.
Can anybody share their opinions on the following models:
Mullen (Discovery)
BMI
GFI Ultra (keys and keyless)
These seem to be in my price range. I am under the impression that they are all of good, consistent, and stable quality. However, I am curious how people describe the differences in tone between these, as well as playability? Also, curious about maintenance issues with any of these? Ideally I am looking for as low maintenance as possible....
Thanks again! |
|
|
|
Mike Mantey
From:
Eastern Colorado, USA
|
|
|
|
Mike Mantey
From:
Eastern Colorado, USA
|
Posted 17 Sep 2018 7:10 am
|
|
Oops double post....
You can get your basic accessories at www.mullenguitars.com
Last edited by Mike Mantey on 17 Sep 2018 11:55 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
|
|
Charley Paul
From:
California, USA
|
Posted 17 Sep 2018 9:05 am
|
|
| Awesome. I saw one of these for sale last week on this site. Didn’t jump on it, and now regretting it. Thanks for the heads up! |
|
|
|
Charley Paul
From:
California, USA
|
Posted 17 Sep 2018 10:33 am
|
|
Can anybody tell me what accessories I need to start playing once I get the guitar?
I already have a Lehle Mono Volume pedal and a 66 Pro Reverb.
What do I look for in a tone bar and picks? Where do you suggest I find these? |
|
|
|
James Collett
From:
San Dimas, CA
|
Posted 17 Sep 2018 11:43 am
|
|
Lots of us use the National fingerpicks (I think NP-2 is the model name), but there are lots of great picks out there. There are also lots of options for thumb picks, but most common are the standard National ones (I have a few that are white, but I think they come in tortoise as well), or the blue Herco picks.
The most straightforward equipment setup is the guitar into a volume pedal into the amp, and a '66 Pro Reverb is a good one. That configuration will get you a lot of mileage, and keeps it simple while you learn the basics.
I use a BJS 7/8" tone bar, but I used a Dunlop or an Ernie Ball (depending on what was in my bag) for a long time, and any of these bars get the job done.
_________________
James Collett |
|
|
|
Barry Coker
From:
Bagley Alabama, USA
|
Posted 17 Sep 2018 1:39 pm
|
|
A GOOD tuner!!! There is nothing harder than trying to learn out of tune. Peterson IMHO makes the best with its tempered and sweetened tunings you can spend your time playing not tuning.
Barry |
|
|
|
Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
|
Posted 17 Sep 2018 8:54 pm Can sombody please explain these technical terms
|
|
There is several things to get into steelin beside a guitar, vol. pedal and Amp. Send me an E-mail, I will attach my list of materials and tools. Return E-mail it to you.
Talking about picks. The choice is yours as to make of picks you choose. Get at least 2 sets of finger picks. Carefully fit both sets to your fingers till they are like an extention of your fingers. The more extras picks the better.
Because, If you drop a pick and it gets stepped on in the search for it, You may not be able to reform it to fit your finger. Or someone wants to show you something on the your steel and borrows your picks, They may bend them till it will take a lot of work getting them to fit your fingers again, and could even break in the refitting.
To me picks are very personal. I have a bag of my old picks and picks I have been given by steel and banjo players in my seat. If someone wants to play my steel, I tell them go fish in the bag for a set. I put mine in my pocket to keep them safe.
It is no fun trying to refit a set of picks to get back to playing your steel. |
|
|
|
Pete Burak
From:
Portland, OR USA
|
Posted 18 Sep 2018 4:31 am
|
|
I think you need to make a trip to a Steel Guitar Store!
Steel Guitars of North County is in Oceanside CA.
Are you anywhere near there?
Is there a local Steel Player near you?
Get a newbee Introduction lesson asap  |
|
|
|
Bill Myers
From:
Camp Hill, Pennsylvania, USA
|
Posted 19 Sep 2018 1:04 pm
|
|
Tone Bars are also a personal thing. Most use a 7/8 or 1 inch bar. I have a 1 inch George L's bar but I use a bar the I made of 4140 round bar most often. The feel and intonation of the 1 inch versus 7/8 inch makes a difference as well. George L and Dunlop make good stainless bars that are reasonably priced. I have also recently found that Dunlop is making Nickel silver finger picks. For me...these are great for pedal steel. I also like blue Herco thumb picks. They just feel better to me.
Don't get wrapped up in the thought that a certain pick is going to give you a magic tone. Tone comes from practice. I use a tuner in my IPhone. It's nice because I can program temperaments into tuner and i just about always have my phone with me. I have both Cleartune and Pitchlab Pro on my phone and they are both good tuners.
_________________
Carter D10 9 x 5, Nashville 112, Goodrich L10K |
|
|
|
Landon Johnson
From:
Washington, USA
|
Posted 21 Sep 2018 6:44 am
|
|
| Charley Paul wrote: |
Can anybody tell me what accessories I need to start playing once I get the guitar?
I already have a Lehle Mono Volume pedal and a 66 Pro Reverb.
What do I look for in a tone bar and picks? Where do you suggest I find these? |
I can't give you anything but experiential advice here... I am on my 3rd attempt at the Pedal Steel. This time I have been 'at it' for a year and I will be sticking with it.
I now realize that the fingerpick issue was the deal breaker in the past. This time around I found a set of picks that really works for me - I need to feel that pick on my finger, not just the fingertip - so I am using high rider picks. FOR ME it has made the difference. Playing with picks now feels natural and more fluid. I also need a very rigid thumbpick in order to be comfortable.
The point is, you'll have to try a number of different things until you get what works for you individually regardless of what specific products others recommend.
You'll also want a way to sit at the steel consistently so that you can develop a posture - maybe a pak-a-seat? It sucks playing a gig and having to rely on the furniture there to find a reasonable seating position - try playing a steel sitting on an office chair with wheels and arms 
There are lots of cool things out there, but your benefit from them will be based on your player profile. |
|
|
|
