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Topic: Fessenden // A Pedal issue |
Ethan Fogus
From:
Atlanta, GA
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 3:25 pm |
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Hi y'all--
I'm having an issue with my A pedal on my Fessenden. It's loose and I can't get it to tighten up. I've taken apart the guitar and can tighten the screws that hold it on the pedal bar, but it won't tighten/knocks loose again easy. Is this the kind of thing I can fix with a nut? Or do I need to buy a whole new pedal block? I thought it might be that the screw was stripped, but I swapped one and it didn't do the trick.
Let me know what you think--and thank you in advance.
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 3:39 pm
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I'd probably try some blue loc-tite thread sealer first. Let set up per instructions. Pretty quick and easy application. If that doesn't work, you can put a nut on the back side if there's room for it to clear. Tricky, but probably a magnet or needle nose pliers will work to help start it. I'd loc-tite that also.
It might be that the threads in the block are just wallowed out to bad to use.
If all else fails, you can likely close in the holes with some metal epoxy like JB Weld and re-tap.
Another suggestion drill to the next larger size, re-tap and install new screws it there's enough material. It won't match the others of course if that's an issue. |
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Ethan Fogus
From:
Atlanta, GA
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 4:21 pm
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| Thanks Jerry! I'll give the Loctite a try. I appreciate your quick response. |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 4:21 pm Re: Fessenden // A Pedal issue
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| Ethan Fogus wrote: |
| Is this the kind of thing I can fix with a nut? |
Unless you can knock the pin out and remove the pedal, I'd hate to try to hold a nut in there (if there's even space for it). but actually, removing the axle & pedal would be your best starting point working on it to achieve a durable fix.
I've never seen a really old Fessenden so maybe this is the way he made them a long long time ago but that is definitely not anything resembling a modern one. Wonder if that was cobbled up, aftermarket.
Which doesn't matter at all, re: your situation. My preferred solution, of Jerry's ideas, would be to bore & tap it one size larger. |
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Ethan Fogus
From:
Atlanta, GA
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 4:28 pm
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Really? Wild. I don't know much about the pedigree of this model other than I bought it this summer from Dick Chapple on this forum. Curious--do you know where I can buy a new pedal block if I need to? I have a studio date on Monday with a band so speedy is best.
Thanks, Jon! |
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Barry Coker
From:
Bagley Alabama, USA
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 4:37 pm Fessenden //A pedal
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| I can't really tell the exact size of the screw looks to be a 10-24 a good hardware store can measure it for you. then look for a metric screw just a little bigger If this is a standard thread bolt the metric will come in about half way between the size you have and the next standard size above. This will be tight but should thread right in and make a tight connection. Stainless Steel screw would be a good choice for hardness. |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 4:38 pm
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The block looks like stock channel. If it's a standard size and thickness, you could probably buy a piece from a metal shop and saw it to size or have them do it for you, then match up and drill the mounting holes using the old one as a guide. Is that a solid pin that mounts the pedal to the block? It should drive out if so.
I'm not familiar with the Fess either, but I'm guessing that entire assembly bolts inside the polished pedal bar so that cosmetics might not matter if drilling and re-tapping. |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 4:50 pm
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| Ethan Fogus wrote: |
| Curious--do you know where I can buy a new pedal block if I need to? |
You'd need a whole pedal rack with pedals. Wouldn't be cheap and would not likely be found anywhere but new, from Jerry Fessenden (but you never know, I guess).
This is what a Fessenden pedal rack looks like.
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 4:51 pm Re: Fessenden //A pedal
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| Barry Coker wrote: |
| I can't really tell the exact size of the screw looks to be a 10-24 a good hardware store can measure it for you. then look for a metric screw just a little bigger If this is a standard thread bolt the metric will come in about half way between the size you have and the next standard size above. This will be tight but should thread right in and make a tight connection. Stainless Steel screw would be a good choice for hardness. |
...yeah, or a slightly larger dia. stainless self-tapping sheet metal screw will cut new threads, but it has to be the right size as you only get one chance and if it breaks off mid stroke, you're done.
Last edited by Jerry Overstreet on 14 Dec 2017 5:06 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 4:57 pm
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| If you can knock the pin out and get the pedal off, and if you find enough lateral space for a nut, that would be my # option for simplicity and foolproofishness. But I'm not optimistic that there's lateral space for a nut inside the channel.. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 15 Dec 2017 1:50 am
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Perhaps I'm weird, but my first thought would be to hie myself to a welder's shop and have it welded down (and inspect the other cleats for similar looseness.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Barry Coker
From:
Bagley Alabama, USA
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Posted 15 Dec 2017 5:29 am
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| Welding would hold it forever but the heat might warp the "U" channel the pedal is mounted in and cause the pedal to drag and be stiff. |
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Ethan Fogus
From:
Atlanta, GA
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Posted 15 Dec 2017 8:38 am
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Thanks for all your help y'all. All systems are operational. I think I'll have to find a metal shop soon, but getting bigger screws worked. Now if only I didn't have such heavy clodhoppers . . .
And Jon -- I included a picture of the front of the guitar. I'm interested to know more about its pedigree, if you know any one who can help.
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 15 Dec 2017 9:09 am
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Hey Ethan. Very interesting. I found the listing. The history of this guitar and what-all may have been done with it is all but impossible to nail down.
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=2651279&sid=a6869945d18e85f6437af82dbfdb9d82
All I know is what a modern Fessenden looks like (mine is around 2006). There are many parts and methods underneath yours that differ quite a bit. None of this says anything about quality and I wouldn't be too concerned unless anything does not work as well as it might. Either your guitar represents old Fessenden technology or it has been largely rebuilt with different parts. The original listing allows for as much --- an Ebay guitar that needed work.
You could try contacting Jerry Fessenden if you want or need to but a good playing & sounding guitar is all that really matters. |
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Ron Pruter
From:
Arizona, USA
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Posted 15 Dec 2017 3:49 pm
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Ethen,
This seems like a basic mechanical fix. If a nut and lock washer will fit in there without restricting pedal movement, go for it. Or, move up to the next size bolt. You'll have to retap the bracket it screws into and may have to countersink the head a little deeper. If you're not mechanically inclined, you probably know someone who is. Good luck. RP
_________________
Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112. |
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richard burton
From:
Britain
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Posted 15 Dec 2017 10:15 pm
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| Try a couple of pop rivets |
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Lee Barber
From:
Sweeny, TX, USA
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Posted 11 Jan 2018 7:23 am
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Ethan,
Jerry builds a great guitar and is a great resorce of knowledge of the pedal steel. He has worked with several large manufactures of steels and even helps others today. Just recently he was at the Sho Pro factory helping out. I'm sure allot of builders do this.
If you have issues with a Fessy or need parts, contact Jerry, he is a great guy as well. I would say if any manufacture is in business get you Factory Authorised parts from them. If not there are a lot of great parts manufactures on the forum.
Use say that is my 2¢ worth, but like anything else 2¢ want get you bubble gum anymore.
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Zum D10 |
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