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Topic: Adding felt to underside of a lap steel |
David Weisenthal
From: Arizona, USA
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Posted 17 Jul 2017 1:05 pm
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I'm sure this has been discussed but I couldn't locate an old post on the subject. My old Gretch Electromatic really stays put since its felt is in good shape. On the other hand, my Rukavina is pretty slippery with its plain wood bottom (but very pretty)...what have other forumites done? The seperate rubber pad idea is a pain for me. Maybe some low VOC silicone caulk and felt? _________________ Derby SD10, Peavey Session 400 |
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Ed Baker
From: Connecticut, USA
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Posted 17 Jul 2017 1:50 pm
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I've used a simple computer mouse pad (yes, they're still available).
Just lay the pad on your thigh and go. |
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George Piburn
From: The Land of Enchantment New Mexico
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Posted 17 Jul 2017 2:21 pm rough the bottom
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If you want to maintain the integrity of the wood - finish,
you can get some of the rubber matting for drawer lining , at any dollar general or walmart- home center.
Simply lay it across the lap or table surface , and it will stick and release easily.
If you want to get more aggressive , home centers sell some super stick on abrasive material for steps.
There is a material called Flocking Fibers - Rockler online - made for jewelry boxes
It utilizes a glue and little applicator looks sorta like a glorified paper towel tube.
This is fuzzy stuff that is on the bottom of most all of the old Magnatones and similar instruments.
Hope this helps folks. _________________ GeorgeBoards S8 Non Pedal Steel Guitar Instruments
Maker of One of a Kind Works of Art that play music too.
Instructional DVDs
YouTube Channel |
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Bill Groner
From: QUAKERTOWN, PA
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Posted 17 Jul 2017 2:32 pm
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I got some silicone bowl covers at Big Lots. I think there were 2 in the package for around $5. You don't have to glue them on, they cling. It doesn't hurt the finish and it sure as heck doesn't move off your lap. _________________ Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40 |
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David Weisenthal
From: Arizona, USA
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Posted 17 Jul 2017 3:12 pm
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Ok good tips guys. Do any new makers still use felt? Just curious. It seems to work better than anything else. _________________ Derby SD10, Peavey Session 400 |
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Robert Allen
From: Tennessee, USA
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Posted 17 Jul 2017 6:41 pm
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I bought a roll of peel and stick felt but the problem was that the shape changed when the backing was peeled off. So, I did a bunch with flocking. The outline had to be taped off with vinyl tape to go around the curves. Auto pin striping tape works well. Then paint the flocking area with acrylic paint and then spray the flocking fibers onto the wet paint. After it dries, brush the loose fibers off. Next I bought some 3 inch diameter peel and stick felt circles. Those were easy to apply and worked well. Morrell used to put felt on their lap steels, maybe they still do. I wouldn't mind putting felt on when requested on if I had a way to accurately apply it but so far I don't. www.melbert.guitars |
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David Weisenthal
From: Arizona, USA
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Posted 17 Jul 2017 8:23 pm
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Good info Robert. Yes the flocking seems to be the way to go. I always thought they were backed with felt but I guess not. I will try some from a mail order place and upload photos. (Unless It looks really crappy and I am too embarrassed) _________________ Derby SD10, Peavey Session 400 |
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Stefan Robertson
From: Hertfordshire, UK
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Posted 18 Jul 2017 12:17 am
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Been there done that with felt.
HOWEVER
Either get a footrest to raise the height or some legs for your Lap Steel Guitar http://www.deluxe34.com
Your spine and neck will thank you. Otherwise be prepared for spinal injury or neck strain or both over the years. _________________ Stefan
Bill Hatcher custom 12 string Lap Steel Guitar
E13#9/F secrets: https://thelapsteelguitarist.wordpress.com
"Give it up for The Lap Steel Guitarist" |
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George Piburn
From: The Land of Enchantment New Mexico
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Posted 18 Jul 2017 5:42 am One last Factor
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Just a Artistic Concern,
Ryan makes such awesome wood work and finishes - personally I would use either a stand or the liner material for a dollar from dollar general.
Reason , It would be a Ruination to apply any material -- even on the back to one of his art works. _________________ GeorgeBoards S8 Non Pedal Steel Guitar Instruments
Maker of One of a Kind Works of Art that play music too.
Instructional DVDs
YouTube Channel |
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David Weisenthal
From: Arizona, USA
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Posted 18 Jul 2017 6:30 am
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George I see your point. Thats the reason I still haven't applied anything for the last 2 years. It seems wrong to molest it in any way. It is extremely nice construction throughout. I will try some liner materials first. The issue with stands and pads for me is that this little fun instrument starts to become as cumbersome as a pedal steel that sits in the same room forever. It becomes less fun to play. Stefan, I have noticed my neck and shoulders are stiffer since playing the lap an hour+ a day for the last few weeks. _________________ Derby SD10, Peavey Session 400 |
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Larry Carlson
From: My Computer
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Posted 18 Jul 2017 6:39 am
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I use a table for my lap steel when I play at home and I've covered it with the shelf/door liner that George mentioned.
It works great. Guitar is stuck in place.
If I go out with a guitar I bring along a one foot square piece and lay it in my lap.
Doesn't move or mark up the guitar.
_________________ I have stuff.
I try to make music with it.
Sometimes it works.
Sometimes it doesn't.
But I keep on trying. |
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Bill Groner
From: QUAKERTOWN, PA
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Posted 18 Jul 2017 11:23 am silicone instead of felt
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Here are two pictures of what the bowl cover silicone looks like. There is NO glueing it down, it just stays put and the lap steel does not move on your lap. I have a battery door on the backside and needed a material that I could easily remove and re-apply to change the 9 volt battery. Actually I don't remove it, I just peel it up past the door and press it back down..............EASY/PEASY!
_________________ Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40 |
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David Weisenthal
From: Arizona, USA
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Posted 18 Jul 2017 12:12 pm
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That bowl cover silicone does look pretty good..didnt know there was such a thing. I'm out if touch with modern cookery. _________________ Derby SD10, Peavey Session 400 |
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Bill Groner
From: QUAKERTOWN, PA
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Posted 18 Jul 2017 12:23 pm
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David Weisenthal wrote: |
That bowl cover silicone does look pretty good..didnt know there was such a thing. I'm out if touch with modern cookery. |
I didn't know they were out there either, but I am always on the lookout for stuff I can use for purposes not intended. I have one guitar with rubber jar lid openers on it. Those I took 4 small dabs of silicone to affix it. I think they were from Good Cooks. You get one round red one, and one square yellow one, but with the silicone there is NO glue. I found them at Big Lots. Don't know if you have them in AZ?
_________________ Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40 |
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Ron Wendler
From: Southern Minnesota, USA
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Posted 20 Jul 2017 4:56 am
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I bought some non slip stair tread with stick on back. My underside is wood and putting this on really makes it stay put. _________________ A fine instrument is like a lady. Treat it nice and it will make lovely music. |
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Jeff Mead
From: London, England
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Posted 20 Jul 2017 5:54 am
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I got some sticky backed baize from Evil Bay for my Orphan Stringmaster neck (I had to cover up two leg socket holes). I just trimmed it after it was stuck down. Maybe not the neatest job i the world but nobody really sees it anyway.
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Robert Mac Neilage
From: Glasgow, United Kingdom
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Posted 20 Jul 2017 6:39 am
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Got to agree with Jeff, green baize from evil bay, cut to shape first then wet on one side with P.V.A. glue and place it onto the bottom of the guitar, smoothed out and let dry.
This is a seven string I made last year and it shows the end product, baize and P.V.A are both cheap to buy and very practical to use.
Best results and easy to do.
Cheers
Robert
P.S.
Keep the glue off the table for marital harmony!
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Jeff Mead
From: London, England
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Posted 20 Jul 2017 7:45 am
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Actually, I used self adhesive - even easier. |
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David Weisenthal
From: Arizona, USA
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Posted 20 Jul 2017 12:53 pm
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The green felt (I mean baize )looks good guys. I still haven't done anything for my rukavina, which doesn't make any sense since I'm the one who started this whole thread. _________________ Derby SD10, Peavey Session 400 |
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Jack Hanson
From: San Luis Valley, USA
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Posted 20 Jul 2017 1:45 pm
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David Weisenthal wrote: |
I still haven't done anything for my rukavina |
I will second George's advice and recommend using a stand. Get a Deluxe34 -- you'll be glad you did. Mark's "Universal" model is flexible enough to support nearly whatever instrument you decide to lay atop it. |
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James Phillips
From: Michigan, USA
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Posted 22 Jul 2017 6:42 pm
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Use a yoga mat ; trimmed to your preference. It's not permanent, and easy to roll up. _________________ Visit my Studio: LimeStoneLabs at.. http://Facebook.com/LSlabs
"Let the Bridges We Burn Light the Way" |
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G Strout
From: Carabelle, Florida
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Posted 22 Jul 2017 9:26 pm
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Over the last 12 or so years I have done restoration work on at least 40 - 45 vintage lap steels. In order to keep them "period correct" I have found that this product works fine on many of the oldies. Not an issue in your case (Rukavina) but if anyone is looking for this stuff. Here it is:
http://www.constantines.com/search.aspx?find=flocking
This is a great company to deal with... had one problem over the years and it was straightened out immediately.
Have a look through their catalog (I am not connected to them in any way)
If anyone is looking for a supplier for MOTS (Pearloid) send me a PM. I have great supplier for that too.
gary |
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