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Author Topic:  2nd LKL knee lever
Henry Matthews


From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2016 9:28 am    
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What would be and what is commonly used for a 2nd LKL knee lever. Now it lowers B's but I'm installing a vertical for that so what could be put on it? It's an Emmons set up and other or inside LKL raised E's to F.
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Henry Matthews

D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2016 9:32 am    
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Without knowing the rest of your copedent, I'd say the 1st and 2nd string raise to G# and E?
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Henry Matthews


From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2016 9:44 am    
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Lane, thanks, that's all on the right knee. This guitar is loaded and got every common or major change you can think of on it. It even has a split set up for 6th string lower that works great. Just didn't know what to put back on that 2nd LKL.

Only thing I ever put on one of mine that had the second knee was a half A pedal. It was really useless, lol, since you could feel it anyway on pedal.
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Henry Matthews

D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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Larry Bell


From:
Englewood, Florida
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2016 10:04 am    
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I do the same thing with it that Crawford did in his 5-lever cluster

E to F lever is nearest the back apron (OUTSIDE) and
G# to G is nearer the front (INSIDE)

You slide slightly forward to get the OUTSIDE lever. The outside one is slightly to the right (toward changer end) of the INSIDE one.
They need to be staggered correctly. You need to be able to fully engage each lever without moving the other one.

Most guitars I see with two LKLs have G# to G on the 'staggered' lever.
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Henry Matthews


From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2016 10:22 am    
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Thanks Larry, this guitar has G# to F# on RKL With a split setup that will bring it back to G with pedal. It is being done with and extra rod and works good.
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Henry Matthews

D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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b0b


From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2016 10:41 am    
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I'd put high E to F#. Real purty in slow tunes.
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Henry Matthews


From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2016 11:48 am    
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That would be easy enough to do. Is that in addition to C pedal doing same thin Bob? Will be easy to add that.
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Henry Matthews

D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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Skip Edwards

 

From:
LA,CA
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2016 12:23 pm    
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How many pedals? If you have 9, with a Franklin change somewhere, you might think about splitting it between a pedal and that lever. I forget exactly how it's set up, but Wally Moyers does it on his Zum, and it's way cool.
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2016 12:46 pm    
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I believe they split the Franklin pedal by putting the 6th string lower to F# on a lever and lower both B's to A on a pedal.
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b0b


From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2016 1:17 pm    
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Henry Matthews wrote:
That would be easy enough to do. Is that in addition to C pedal doing same thin Bob? Will be easy to add that.

Yes. I have it on my LKV.

The C pedal is great for fast licks, but I often find myself wanting to change a pedals down (A+B) chord to its relative minor. Example: C chord at 3rd fret (A+B) to Am at 3rd fret (B+C) is awkward. Using the knee lever to raise the 4th string a step solves that.
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John McClung


From:
Olympia WA, USA
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2016 2:05 pm    
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I sort of second b0b's suggestion of the string 4 E > F# there. That's what I have on on my staggered LKL-Front...

BUT, that has some great uses after using your F lever to raise the E a half step, then another half step with that staggered lever. You probably won't be able to smoothly move from the LKL rear to LKL front without smooth slacks and precise positioning of the levers. With my F lever on RKL, the other knee, it's a snap and very tasty.

I use it more by itself for some unison splitting licks with string 1, raising string 1 a half or whole with another lever, releasing the E>F# change to get lovely counterpoint, and also to change a pedals down 1 Major to the 6m, as b0b mentions.
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2016 2:28 pm    
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I also raise 4th string E>F# on the forward LKL. My rear LKL is the F lever.

An addition benefit to this choice is that it can be difficult to position that front lever so that you do not accidentally engage the rear lever slightly (while still having the F lever within easy reach). With the two lever as I have them, there is no adverse affect if I contact the F lever while raising E>F#.

It seemed like a crime to have the redundancy with the C pedal but I use the two quite differently and I really like both.
On another steel with fewer levers, it's no big deal to not have this change but it's a nice one.
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Paddy Long


From:
Christchurch, New Zealand
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2016 4:42 pm    
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Henry on my staggered knees LKL I have the F raises on the rear lever, and the one closest to the front of the guitar lowers the 6th string G# to F# (with the split) and also raises string one F# to G


Note: I lower my E's on RKL
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Tim Russell


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2016 5:04 pm    
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b0b wrote:
I'd put high E to F#. Real purty in slow tunes.

That would be my choice as well, except I would raise both "E's". Problem is, on a 2 up/2 down changer, I'm out of raise holes on the 4th string! Embarassed
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b0b


From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
Post  Posted 12 Sep 2016 6:53 am    
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I tried raising both E's to F#, but it was too stiff for LKV. Might work well on LKL2.

Also, I found that I didn't use the 8th string raise very much when I had it. Sometimes just one change on a lever is perfect, like the standard 3rd string lower (C to B) on C6th.
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Henry Matthews


From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
Post  Posted 12 Sep 2016 7:26 am    
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Thanks everyone, we have decided to put the E to F# raise on that lever and see how it works. I can see how it could be beneficial playing slower songs. Also will be really easy to do.
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Henry Matthews

D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 12 Sep 2016 9:40 am    
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I am going to put my 2nd LKL back on. I am going to move the first string and second string raises there.
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Pat Chong

 

From:
New Mexico, USA
Post  Posted 12 Sep 2016 4:36 pm    
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I have raised both E's, also. At first, I put it on a knee, but the response was slow for faster songs. I moved it to a pedal.

However, Tim: I too have a 2R/2L changer and ran out of change holes for string 4. There is a way to work around that: Just use one rod for more than one change. The tuning method is a bit different, but it works.

Luck........................Pat
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Tim Russell


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 12 Sep 2016 7:27 pm    
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Pat Chong wrote:
I have raised both E's, also. At first, I put it on a knee, but the response was slow for faster songs. I moved it to a pedal.

However, Tim: I too have a 2R/2L changer and ran out of change holes for string 4. There is a way to work around that: Just use one rod for more than one change. The tuning method is a bit different, but it works.

Luck........................Pat


Is there a thread or reference pic for that 2nd rod? I may have heard of that trick in the past, but I can't visualize how to set it up. The way I'm thinking to do it, would not work on my Sierra...I don't believe so, anyway.
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Pat Chong

 

From:
New Mexico, USA
Post  Posted 13 Sep 2016 8:21 pm    
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Sorry I hadn't answered sooner, but there is an answer. I just have to compose the letter and answer in another thread.

Thanks............Pat.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 14 Sep 2016 6:24 am    
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Use Sho-Bud barrels?
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More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Henry Matthews


From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
Post  Posted 14 Sep 2016 8:23 am    
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Lane Gray wrote:
Use Sho-Bud barrels?


Yes, you can use them just like the little tuning thing push pulls have on E knee raise. Since it doesn't pull all way to stop and just stops in between, the little screw works as a fine tuner and Show Bud brass barrels work same way.
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Henry Matthews

D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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John Swain


From:
Winchester, Va
Post  Posted 14 Sep 2016 11:56 am    
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Henry, you might want to experiment with Gary Carter's second LLK. Str 4 to F#, str 6 to Bb. Used with A pedal, it gives a seventh chord two frets below open position. I haven't learned what else it can do, but I love GC's playing.
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Micky Byrne


From:
United Kingdom (deceased)
Post  Posted 14 Sep 2016 12:33 pm     Re: 2nd LKL knee lever
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Henry, I raise and lower my E's on my right knee. RKR lowers my E's and RKL raises the E's.....this is on one of my universals. My LKV lowers my low B-Bb and also raises my 1st from F#-G# .... with rolling the A and B pedals (Emmons setup) I can get some good counterpoint notes Smile ...it's a little unusual combination, but it works well Smile

Micky "scars" Byrne U.K.
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