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Topic: Advice on cleaning up steel |
Todd Pertll
From:
Chicago, Illinois, USA
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Posted 27 Jun 2015 6:59 pm |
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Got this out of storage yesterday. How would you go about cleaning it up?
Thanks
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Jeff Au Hoy
From:
Honolulu, Hawai'i
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Posted 27 Jun 2015 11:35 pm
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| I've gotten excellent results using Basch Nevr-Dull wadding polish on crusty rusty parts like that. |
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John Booth
From:
Columbus Ohio, USA
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Posted 28 Jun 2015 7:53 am
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Why clean it? It's beautifully "patina'd"
_________________
Jb in Ohio
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GFI S10 Ultra, Telecaster, a Hound Dog, and an Annoyed Wife
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 28 Jun 2015 3:01 pm
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Of course, it's so pitted and rusted, it's never going to look very good. I'd get it re-plated. The CC products work on all metals. And they don't take long, or require any work.
5 minutes later. Most of the 5 minutes was letting the polish dry, with maybe 30 seconds of hand buffing with an old sock.
Don't waste your time and elbow grease with old fashioned products!
_________________
Dr. Z Surgical Steel amp, amazing!
"74 Bud S-10 3&6
'73 Bud S-10 3&5(under construction)
'63 Fingertip S-10, at James awaiting 6 knees
'57 Strat, LP Blue
'91 Tele with 60's Maple neck
Dozen more guitars!
Dozens of amps, but SF Quad reverb, Rick Johnson cabs. JBL 15, '64 Vibroverb for at home.
'52 and '56 Pro Amps |
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Todd Pertll
From:
Chicago, Illinois, USA
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Posted 28 Jun 2015 6:26 pm
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| Wow. Thanks. Looks amazing |
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Brian Evans
From:
Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted 29 Jun 2015 4:17 am
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The top post shows severely failed chrome or nickel plating on steel, with the rust blooming through. Anywhere there is rust there is a failure of the plating. What I would do is either find a metal restoration and plating shop and have them deal with it, if I wanted new looking parts, or wire-wheel it intensely to remove the loose rust, treat with a phosphoric acid wash (lots around, including Coke, various de-rusters, rust killers and probably the aluminum de-oxidizer mentioned above). Then polish with your choice of metal polish, de-wax to get it really really clean and dry, then coat with a clear finish to seal the surface from moisture and air. Should keep it clean for a long time.
A pro re-plating shop will do all of that except the clear coat, then plate with a layer of copper that can be polished totally smooth, plate with a layer of nickel and then plate with a layer of chrome, and polish again. Completely restores the original finish.
Brian |
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John Booth
From:
Columbus Ohio, USA
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Posted 29 Jun 2015 5:30 am
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| John Billings wrote: |
| maybe 30 seconds of hand buffing with an old sock. |
Must be one hell of a sock Brother 
_________________
Jb in Ohio
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GFI S10 Ultra, Telecaster, a Hound Dog, and an Annoyed Wife
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Jim Hoock
From:
Highlands Ranch, CO.
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Posted 2 Jul 2015 3:46 am
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[Must be one hell of a sock Brother ]
dammit...just spit my coffee up over that one![/quote]
_________________
Fender FS-52
1960 Fender Deluxe 8
2014 GeorgeBoards S8 Koa
1968 D8 Stringmaster
Randall, Fender, Crate
Working my way thru the Jerry Byrd Instruction |
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Barbara Berg
From:
Washington, USA
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Posted 2 Jul 2015 6:49 am Restore
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| I have to admit, this forum is better than reading the comics, and what's even more interesting I think I've learned a lot of information. Think I'll write a book on " How to restore a Steel Guitar, 5 unconventional methods!" |
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Aaron Jennings
From:
Montana, USA
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Posted 2 Jul 2015 7:20 am
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A method I've used for a gentle and cheap clean-up:
Cut some aluminum foil into little strips. Get it wet, and gently rub the affected areas. You don't need very much water (or elbow grease) at all.
I'd be careful around the pickup and try to keep from getting water into any areas where you can't easily dry it up.
I'd defer to JB and the other suggestions here if you want it to really shine, but I've had surprisingly good results! A good way to see 'How bad is it really?'
Great thread. |
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