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Topic: Questions about scale, pickups, want to build a 10 string |
Jerry Recktenwald
From:
Louisville KY
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Posted 29 Dec 2011 3:49 pm |
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| I have built some 6 string and one 8 string lap steel. The 6string were 21" scale and the 8 string was a 23" scale. I have been playing the lap steel fora little over a year now, so I'm a newbie. Is there a advantage to make a lap steel with a larger scale such as 24 or 25 ? On another post about bridges and nuts , I have decided not to use 1/2 " solid brass rod as I have in my past builds. I thinking of 3/8 x 1/2 ' brass . Now on pickups , do most of them have a string spacing of 3/8". I know that lace and gorge l's have a solid bar and not separate polls . I want to buy a pickup inexpensive , used[ cheep] I don't know the difference between the different brands. What kind would work for me on a 10 string ? Before I start cutting into my 2"x 6" x 0" solid oak stock . I need to know my string spacing so I can design my headstock,and the pickup cavity . I would like to build this one right and not have wished that I done things different. I used Ibnaized 8 string guitar active pickups on my last build but I believe that this pickup distorted at any volume ,not very happy with them. Thank you for all and any suggestions. Jerry Recktenwald |
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Ray Montee
From:
Portland, Oregon (deceased)
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Posted 30 Dec 2011 7:58 pm I have a question.................
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Excuse my question but it is sincere and in no way do I imply any negative conotations.
If you're so new at playing......and if you have all of these questions, WHAT is it that you're wanting to do with your project?
Make a better guitar?
Make a prettier guitar?
Just simply enjoy the challenge of wood working?
What is behind your motivation? I'd never consider undertaking such a detailed project.
THANKS........... |
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Bob Hoffnar
From:
Austin, Tx
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Steve Ahola
From:
Concord, California
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Posted 31 Dec 2011 12:30 am
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Check out the 6 and 8 string lap steels that Jerry has made- this is a post of his from another thread:
| Jerry Recktenwald wrote: |
Here are some pictures of my builds, and bridges . The 6 string have a 3/8" solid brass rod and the double neck 8 strings have a 1/2" solid brass rods , at the nut and the bridge. My tail pieces are made from aluminum.
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Jerry: To answer your questions although some players do like the long scales (24" or 25") I think that 23" is a good compromise. I do think that 21" is too short especially if you are going to play a lot of slants.
Your bridges look great- is there a reason you are thinking of changing them? I think 3/8" rod is fine but I'd suggest that you add some sort of base to raise the strings up higher than 3/8".
As for string spacing for your 10 string I will go against popular opinion here and suggest that you might want to make it a little bit narrower than 3/8". Maybe split the difference between 3/8" and that of a typical PSG.
As for pickups I wish there was a source of inexpensive 8 string and 10 string pickups. You might want to post a WTB ad here looking for pickups that people here have pulled out of one of their steels or otherwise just have in their junk, er, vintage parts drawer. If you go with 3/8" spacing I think you might need a 12 string PSG pickup (George L makes 12 string versions of many of his pickups).
Your steels look great- I think I would bite the bullet and design them around top-notch pickups, like the Jerry Wallace True-Tones or the George L's. Most lap steels have just a single pickup mounted fairly close to the bridge.
Good luck!
Steve Ahola
P.S. These are just my own opinions.
_________________
www.blueguitar.org
Recordings on electric guitar:
http://www.box.net/blue-diamonds
http://www.box.net/the-culprits |
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Jerry Recktenwald
From:
Louisville KY
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Posted 31 Dec 2011 7:28 am
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| Hi Ray , I didn't take any of your words or reply negative. There are just questions on why do I want to do this. I would like to say when I get a reply on my post it put's a smile on my face because people on this sight helpful and kind in their words, not like the world that we all live in. I like to work with wood and there isn't anything like playing the lap steel that you make yourself. |
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Jerry Recktenwald
From:
Louisville KY
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Posted 31 Dec 2011 7:34 am
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| Thanks Bob I'll check out this sight. |
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Jerry Recktenwald
From:
Louisville KY
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Posted 31 Dec 2011 8:17 am
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Thanks Steve , It's fun making lap steels. I want to make a 10 string because the strings sets comes with 10 strings, why not use them. Just 2 more to have some fun with. The question about the bridge and nut is because I didn't know if the strings were breaking right and maybe causing them to buzz. I used on the 6 strings 3/8" and on my 8 string I used 1/2" brass rod. I didn't know how to copy the picture so I copyed the reply.Tom Pettingill
From:
California, USA
Post Posted 25 Dec 2011 11:43am Reply with quote
What did you use for nut and bridge? What is it about your setup that is giving you trouble?
There are tons of ways to make a good and serviceable nut and bridge. One thing to keep in mind is that you need a clean string exit / break angle where the last contact point is at the very edge. If not you can have buzzing and unpleasant sitar like tones as a result.
Alan's suggestion is a good one as with round stock you don't / can't have a flat spot to worry about. And for types made from other materials like angle, channel, or rectangle forms, here are a generic drawing that helps demonstrate a proper break point.
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Well where the picture? I was thinking about making it out of 3/8 " x1/2" brass and shaping it like a guitar nut to have a better breaking point. No buz , just pure note.
On the pickup I thinking of going with a rail type and not a pole pickup. then I don't have to worry about the strings spacing. I'll check out your suggestion on spacing a little closer[ listen to experience and don't make so many mistakes] BTW I'm making this one out of solid oak and I want my daughter to draw some design on it so that I can wood burn on the fret board. [ leaves, maybe even a humming bird too ] But I will still make my fretboard cover out of Lexan with pin stripping for frets. I check out the pickups that you suggested and are they the same type [ single coil} If so which one is the better of the 2? |
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Bill Hatcher
From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 31 Dec 2011 10:02 am
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nice work!!!!!
is your head stock the same thickness all the way across? reason i ask is that i built a couple with this design and found it to be very flexible and there fore losing sustain. if you can press down on the tip of the head stock and hear the pitch change, its flexing too much. you might experiment with just routing a ledge for the tuning gears and leaving the rest of the thickness of the head the same as the body. just my opinion. i know its so easy just to bandsaw the thickness out rather than taking the time to rout.
beautiful guitars!! stop asking questions...keep building!!  |
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Jerry Recktenwald
From:
Louisville KY
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Posted 31 Dec 2011 10:33 am
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| Thank you Bill ! I made the headstock 3/4" like a guitar and yes they have some flex that I have notice when tuning. On my next build I want to leave as much of the headstock the same size as the body around 1 7/8" thick . I am also thinking of making the top side of the headstock 1/4" lower than the rest of the body of the guitar so that the strings will have more tension on the nut and not move around. that is why I have second 3/8" rod above the nut on my 8 string. I want to use a router to rout the outside edge of the headstock for the tuners and leave the rest as is, hoping that there will be no flex . |
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Jerry Recktenwald
From:
Louisville KY
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Posted 31 Dec 2011 10:48 am
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| I have planed my piece of oak down today and put masking tape on one side to draw my center lines on it. I want to take my time laying it out, listening to all suggestions and not getting in a hurry like I usually do . Sometimes we think we know it all and find out that we don't know haft what we think.[ me] Take my time and have some fun building it. |
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