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Topic: Calling All ShoBud Experts: HELP!!! |
Sam Lewis
From:
Conway, Arkansas, USA
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Posted 28 Oct 2011 7:11 am |
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I am installing a vertical knee lever on my ShoBud Professional. The lever works great, plenty of rod travel, can move the lower finger at least 1/2 inch but no matter how much I move it, I can only get about 1/2 of the lower from B to Bb. I have loosened the "helper springs", adjusted the return springs, lubricated the changer mechanism, but neither of these helped. A picture of the setup.
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SL D-10, SL U-12,SL SD-10, Custom Tele w/B bender, Steel King, TC300 Effects, Goodrich H-10K pedal, Fender V/T Pedal, Hilton Pedal Elite seat. |
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Michael Yahl
From:
Troy, Texas!
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Posted 28 Oct 2011 7:35 am
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Change the string gauges up one size (larger). This may give provide the necessary string tension to allow the drop.
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"Don't fergit to kiss yer horse!"
'72 Sho-Bud Professional D10, (in pieces .....), '78 MSA Classic XL D10, '69 Emmons PP, Fender 2000
Peavey Session 500 BW, Crate Digital Modeling Amp
PSG PARTS
http://www.psgparts.com/ |
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Peter den Hartogh
From:
Cape Town, South Africa
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Posted 28 Oct 2011 7:45 am
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Push the changer lower finger for 5 and 10 with a screw driver, just to see if the changer can do the full travel to Bb.
If not, there might be something binding or the finger is hitting the body.
If the changer can make the move, check out the rod system. Is there sufficient space for both barrels to travel, without hitting the B pedal rack? They look rather close. Or maybe the stop needs to be readjusted for more travel.
Who manufactured the installation? It looks like a nice way to get the V pedal closer to the leg.
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1977 Sho~Bud D10 ProIII Custom; Sho~Bud SD10 The Professional ; ETS S10 5x5;
Fender 1000; 1993 Remington U12; 1978 Emmons S10 P/P; GeorgeB Weissenborn;
Fluger Cat-Can; Asher Electro Hawaiian; Gibson BR4; Fender FS52; Guyatone 8str;
Fender Resonator ; Epiphone Coronet 1937; Rickenbacher Ace; Rickenbacher NS;
Dynalap 8string; Harbor Lights 8string; Aiersi Tri-Cone; Fender Stringmaster |
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Sam Lewis
From:
Conway, Arkansas, USA
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Posted 28 Oct 2011 8:15 am
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Peter and Michael, thanks. The lower on the 10th string is just fine so whatever it is that couses the trouble has to be in the 5th string changer. Peter, I hand made all of the parts. The mechanism work great.
_________________
SL D-10, SL U-12,SL SD-10, Custom Tele w/B bender, Steel King, TC300 Effects, Goodrich H-10K pedal, Fender V/T Pedal, Hilton Pedal Elite seat. |
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Posted 28 Oct 2011 10:00 am
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Sam, I had the same problem with the Sho Bud-type changer finger on one of my guitars.
If you are sure that everything is moving freely and you have done what Michael suggested, then it most likely is in the changer finger.
Check the finger movement by taking the mechanism thru a very slow lowering where you observe the lowering bar's movement as compared to the raise bar. Also, observe the finger as well. By finger, I mean the one that the string wraps around.
Does the finger travel and then stop, while the lowering bar is still moving?
Does the lowering finger travel for a bit and then you see the raise finger start traveling with it?
Make sure you know what these components are doing. Let us know and we'll take it from there& hopefully get things working.
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BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
https://www.facebook.com/groups/212050572323614/ |
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Sam Lewis
From:
Conway, Arkansas, USA
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Posted 28 Oct 2011 6:59 pm
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Thanks, Bent, I'll give her a run-thru tomorrow and let you know.
_________________
SL D-10, SL U-12,SL SD-10, Custom Tele w/B bender, Steel King, TC300 Effects, Goodrich H-10K pedal, Fender V/T Pedal, Hilton Pedal Elite seat. |
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Ron Pruter
From:
Arizona, USA
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Posted 29 Oct 2011 12:01 am
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Hi Sam,
Nice work BTW. Is the barrel right up next to the puller on string #5?. It looks like it is not, in the photo. Of couse this would give you more movement of the rack. I hope this isn't like asking " did you check the gas tank?" I know you will figure this one out. Good luck, RP
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Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112. |
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Sam Lewis
From:
Conway, Arkansas, USA
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Posted 29 Oct 2011 6:36 am
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Ron, thank you, my friend. The problem is going to boil down to the changer sticking, I think. I've built steel guitars for a long time but I've never worked with a ShoBud changer. It will all work out, I sure, that is, with help from friends like you.
_________________
SL D-10, SL U-12,SL SD-10, Custom Tele w/B bender, Steel King, TC300 Effects, Goodrich H-10K pedal, Fender V/T Pedal, Hilton Pedal Elite seat. |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 29 Oct 2011 8:28 am
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| Bent Romnes wrote: |
.......Does the lowering finger travel for a bit and then you see the raise finger start traveling with it? |
I agree w/ Bent especially the part about checking to see if the raise finger is moving with the lowering finger.
Also play around w/ string gauges as suggested above. I had a 20w not allow G#-->F#, whereas a 22p worked just find.
If none of those work, it is easy to remove a single changer finger for inspection using another axle, dowel or pencil. De-rod that finger and remove the return spring. Then loosen the strings and tap the 2nd axle so that it pushes the original axle past the finger. Back of the 2nd axle off, and the changer finger should slide right out from underneath. |
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Sam Lewis
From:
Conway, Arkansas, USA
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Posted 29 Oct 2011 11:35 am Got 'er done!!!!!
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You guys are the greatest!!!! The finger was binding - don't suppose it had moved in 40 years. Anyway, while I activeated the V pedal I spplied a little pressure to the string pin and caused it to move the full distance. This cured most of the problem so I changed the .17 sting to .20 and it works smooth as butter. I'm going to replace the .20 now with a .22 wound for tone and "pull back". Again, thanks a million
_________________
SL D-10, SL U-12,SL SD-10, Custom Tele w/B bender, Steel King, TC300 Effects, Goodrich H-10K pedal, Fender V/T Pedal, Hilton Pedal Elite seat. |
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Craig A Davidson
From:
Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin USA
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Posted 30 Oct 2011 4:56 am
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| Sam I know you are aware of this but you need to get your thinnest string set first before you do the thickest. Thinner strings take more pull. You can do it with a 17 easy. If you go to a 22 you will most likely break it on the raise. |
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