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Post new topic My Stringmaster Project update
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Author Topic:  My Stringmaster Project update
Papa Joe Pollick


From:
Swanton, Ohio
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2009 4:05 pm    
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Got most of the paint off the body.Been sanding to try and make it clean enough for a clear finish.That ain't gonna happen.There's a lot of nicks that are too deep to get rid of.I'll have to fill and level then paint a solid color.
[might start a poll for color selection][black will probably win that]
One of the pickup had broken windings,but Pete Biltoft repaired it for me.Should be here tomorrow.
Here's some pics of the progress.





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Ron Victoria

 

From:
New Jersey, USA
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2009 4:27 pm    
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There's a place that sells the same Fender colors. I can't recall the name but someone will probably post it. You might want to consider letting an auto body shop spray it.

ron
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Papa Joe Pollick


From:
Swanton, Ohio
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2009 4:59 pm    
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Thanks Ron,No problem getting the paint..I'm not really concerned with authentic color unless I could have the grain showing..Then I would make it a light natuaral color.But there's too many dings for that.
I will do my own paint work,that's what makes it a project.
If my hands were steady enough and my eyeballs workin' like they use to I would have even repaired that pickup,but I could barely see that little wire let alone soldiering it..
But Hey I'm havin' fun.. Very Happy
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Papa Joe Pollick


From:
Swanton, Ohio
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2009 4:59 pm    
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Double post,sorry
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Bill Creller

 

From:
Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2009 6:22 pm    
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The dings are typical on an old guitar it seems, and filler of any kind still shows through a clear/tinted finish. I'm re-doing my Dual Pro for the second time. Paint this time.
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Papa Joe Pollick


From:
Swanton, Ohio
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2009 6:34 pm    
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Yeah Bill,That's the way I read it too.Just a question of what color.I'm leanin' toward white but dunno yet..
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Lynn Oliver


From:
Redmond, Washington USA * R.I.P.
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2009 7:14 pm    
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Looks like you are about the same point in the process that I am. I have one neck sanded with 320 grit and ready for grain filler; the other two are nearly done sanding with 220 grit.

It is possible to get neutral filler and dye it to match the wood; then you use a graining pencil to draw in the grain. You seal the wood before using the colored filler so it doesn't bleed into the surrounding wood. Under a tinted clear coat it can look pretty good, but it adds a lot of work.

You can also try steaming the dents out so that you don't have to sand so deeply. I've done this before and sometimes it is amazing what can be done.

On my T8 I noticed that the interior sides--the sides that don't show when the body is bolted together--show milling marks and were never planed flat. That's something to watch out for if you are going to expose a side that wasn't exposed originally.

Good luck with the project and I bet you finish well before I do... Confused
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Papa Joe Pollick


From:
Swanton, Ohio
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2009 8:38 pm    
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I gave a passing thought to the steaming gig but I've never done that.But thanks for the reminder,think I'll try it.
There are saw marks where the dude cut the bolts holding the necks together,but they are on the backside so only the player will see them.Fortunately it was the front neck originaly so that looks ok..
I have every thing but the legs and the diamonds..Waiting for some cash to come my way.
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Lynn Oliver


From:
Redmond, Washington USA * R.I.P.
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2009 10:38 pm    
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Fortunately I have everything except for a few screws, although I haven't found a good source for those yet. I did have to buy a new decal.

How will you deal with the jack? I haven't figured out how Fender managed to get the metal bracket inside the hole for the jack.

I'll be interested to hear what you decide on the finish, as I'm still trying to decide.
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Papa Joe Pollick


From:
Swanton, Ohio
Post  Posted 8 Oct 2009 6:15 am    
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That Tele style output jack wasn't one of King Leo's better ideas.I'm not even gonna mess with that.
To begin with,there was no hole for a jack,just a small one for the wire to the other necks.I had to drill one.I'm using a jack plate like on a Les Paul.
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Danny James

 

From:
Summerfield Florida USA
Post  Posted 8 Oct 2009 6:29 am    
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Steaming--- I have successfully steamed small dents and dings out of gunstocks before refinishing, by placing a wet rag over the dent and applying heat from my wife's iron right over the dent.
Works for me ! Idea
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Papa Joe Pollick


From:
Swanton, Ohio
Post  Posted 8 Oct 2009 6:53 am    
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Thanks Danny,I'll give 'er a fling..
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Lynn Oliver


From:
Redmond, Washington USA * R.I.P.
Post  Posted 8 Oct 2009 8:50 am    
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One more thought I had... To support the body while painting, insert 1/4" rod or dowels through the bolt holes. Then you can flip 'er over without waiting for the top to dry.
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Papa Joe Pollick


From:
Swanton, Ohio
Post  Posted 8 Oct 2009 9:43 am    
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Great idea!!!Was wondering about how to do that and because I'v driven the rods out already it will be a snap..I can even make a hanging setup with it.

Thanks..
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Rich Hlaves


From:
Wildomar, California, USA
Post  Posted 8 Oct 2009 3:30 pm     Re: My Stringmaster Project update
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Papa Joe Pollick wrote:
[might start a poll for color selection][black will probably win that]


I did a '57 Chevy in black in the late '80s. My arm still hurts from all the block sanding to get it straight enough for the color (hehehe). Black is a lot of work but can be worth the effort.

Nothing looks better on black than chrome and Stringmasters have plenty of that!
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Papa Joe Pollick


From:
Swanton, Ohio
Post  Posted 9 Oct 2009 3:29 pm    
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I put it together for a dry run to give me an idea of what might have to be done before the paint job..Gotta say she sounds mighty good like a Stringmaster should.
I have A6 on it with an F# on string one.Always wanted to try that tuning.
It's gonna be on the shelf for a while til I get some bucks so I'll be learning that tuning.
BTW, Pete Biltoft at Vintage Vibe Guitars did a good job on rewinding that dead pup.Very reasonable price to.Thanks Pete.
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Craig Hawks

 

From:
North Ridgeville, Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 10 Oct 2009 5:37 pm    
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Just wondering how you're going to do the paint? I've heard that auto body shops paint stuff other than cars and they do a nice, smooth, baked on sort of thing. I just don't know if they do a good job on painting wood or not?
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Dom Franco


From:
Beaverton, OR, 97007
Post  Posted 12 Oct 2009 11:55 pm    
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I had my old Fender 2000 pedal steel painted at a Ford dealer paint Shop for $20.00 (in 1975) They did a great job with primer coats and everything.

After I assembled it it even seemed to play and sound better!

Wish I had taken some pics before I sold it.
Dom Rolling Eyes
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Casey Lowmiller

 

From:
Kansas
Post  Posted 13 Oct 2009 2:48 pm    
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The steaming idea is a good one. The wet rag & an iron is the easiest. If you get the dent fairly wet, place a wet rag on it and use a soldering iron...that will work too.

I've steamed alot of dents out of gunstocks using both methods. If it doesn't work, you're just out a little bit of time.

Casey
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