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Topic: Changing strings |
David Berry
From:
Sandston, Virginia, USA
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Posted 14 Dec 2007 11:42 am |
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| I'm a fairly seasoned pedal steel and 6-string guitarist, but I still struggle when it comes to changing the first couple of strings on the E9th neck, especially the G#! The way I normally change them is to place the ball end of the string over the roller piece of the bridge and while keeping tension on the string so it doesn't come out of the slot, run the string up through the hole in the tuner post head. I then cut the end of the string about 2.5 to 3 inches beyond the hole with my clippers. I really need a third arm! Anyway, while keeping the tension on the string, I pull the string back through the hole until the end of the string just protrudes beyond the hole. After that, I take my string winder and start winding. With any luck, the tip of the string will catch and hold until I can get the string to wrap around the post enough to keep the string in place. Then, I just wind quickly while keeping my right hand beneath the string, while the string finally comes to rest. The larger diameter strings are not a problem. They tend to cooperate, but the small diameter strings cause me great anxiety at times. Any suggestions to make it go more smoothly? I hope my description made sense! |
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Dale Hansen
From:
Hendersonville,Tennessee, (USA)
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Posted 14 Dec 2007 12:08 pm
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David,
(using the 1st string as example)
The easiest way that I know, is to hold the ball end with the right hand at the approximate spot on the changer finger where the ball wrap would lay. Then, with the left hand, lay the string across the roller at the peghead end, and run your thumb and index finger to the tuning peg for the 3rd string and pinch the spot, and bend the string in two at that point. Now, clip the end about 1/4 inch from the bend, leaving a tiny hook. Insert the hook into the peg hole, and position the tuning peg where the front hole is slightly downward toward the body of the guitar. Now, you are able to hook the ball end on the post or slot, while using your left hand at around the middle of the neck to keep adequate tension. Now, you can cross over, and use your right hand again to crank the string up. you only need about two pegs worth of length to get a good wrap on it. Also take careful note to make sure that the string ends up in line with the roller. I usually wrap a couple of turns on the outside, then cross it over the top of the string stub for two, or three wraps to lock it in. |
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Dale Hansen
From:
Hendersonville,Tennessee, (USA)
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Posted 14 Dec 2007 12:22 pm
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Here's my "quickdraw" setup. If you look at the lid of the seat, I have a nipper, peg crank, and pre-cut strings. The pre-cut strings eliminated the need for the nipper.
The strings that I would have break the most, were of course, the 011,(3rd), and 017 (5th) so I always had em' ready to go.
Back when I was playing a lot, and still quick at it, I could be back in business in about 30 seconds.
Picture file |
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Ken Williams
From:
Arkansas
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Posted 14 Dec 2007 9:57 pm
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I always put the non-ball end through the tuning peg first and give a half a turn or so to hold it in place. Then put the ball end on the little peg on the changer(Emmons). While holding the ball end on the changer peg with the middle finger of my right hand, I place my right thumb in under the string about where the pickup is. Elevate the string a couple of inches at that point. Then reach back to the tuning peg with my left hand and pull all the slack out. Then I start tightening the tuning peg. When the string gets close to being tight, I gradually lower my right thumb to allow the string to slide off the end of my thumb and in place. When the string in on but still loose, I make sure that the string is centered on the changer and make sure that the ball end is all the way against the changer. Then tighten'r on up.
Ken |
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