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Post new topic Increase string pressure on reso bridge?
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Author Topic:  Increase string pressure on reso bridge?
Peter

 

Post  Posted 12 Jul 2003 8:50 am    
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When I pick close to the resonator bridge, the strings are sometimes sliding sideways over the bridge. Is there a way to increase the angle of the strings coming from the tailpiece? I do not want to cut v-grooves in the bridge, unless I have to.
Any help is appreciated.

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Peter den Hartogh-Fender Artist S10-Remington U12-Hilton Volume Pedal-Gibson BR4 lapsteel-Guya "Stringmaster" Copy-MusicMan112RP-Peavy Rage158- - My Animation College in South Africa

Howard Parker


From:
Maryland
Post  Posted 12 Jul 2003 10:41 am    
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What kind of resophonic guitar do you have and is it set up for lapstyle playing?

The string height should be about 9/16 (+/-), which if you are using U.S. components would place it quite high. Also what gauge strings are you using?

I pick _VERY_ hard and have never lost a string on a guitar that was properly setup.

Howard

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Howard Parker
poobah@resoguit.com
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 12 Jul 2003 11:49 am    
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if you've got a standard dobro tailpiece, lots of people insert the strings down through the holes, underneath the leading edge of the tailpiece and up over the bridge. this supposedly gives a slightly better tone and sharper angle down from the bridge. won't hurt to try it anyway. it's free.
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Peter

 

Post  Posted 12 Jul 2003 12:10 pm    
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Thanks Chris, I was considering that but I was worried about the sharp edge of the tailpiece. Maybe I'll use some emery paper to smooth the edge on the underside of the tailpiece.

Howard, it is a standard lapstyle reso guitar, normal stringheight and normal gauge.
I'll look into the exact sizes and maybe I'll change the gauges.
Howard Parker


From:
Maryland
Post  Posted 12 Jul 2003 12:39 pm    
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Quote:
lots of people insert the strings down through the holes, underneath the leading edge of the tailpiece and up over the bridge.


I wouldn't advocate this but, what the heck. The problem with this method is the real chance of the wound strings coming in contact with the coverplate. But as I said..YMMV

I think there is just something basically wrong with the setup if strings are popping out of the saddle inserts. BTW..You didn't say _which_ strings were giving you the problem.

Quote:
standard lapstyle reso guitar, normal stringheight and normal gauge.


I don't know what "standard" and "normal" are. If you can provide specifics we might be able to get you closer to the problem's resolution.

Just trying to help..

hp

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Howard Parker
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Gregg McKenna

 

From:
South Windsor, Connecticut, USA
Post  Posted 12 Jul 2003 4:58 pm    
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I don't think I would ever set up a guitar with the string height at 9/16". Are you measuring from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string or from the wood of the fretboard to the very top of the string?

A good setup is about 3/8" from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string, and they should be level from frets 1-12. On some guitars, the string height rises slightly as you get closer to the bridge.

If the string height is setup too high, it places unnecessary stress on the peghead and neck.

If your strings are popping out of the bridge string slots when you are playing, it is likely that your bridge height is too low and there is not enough back pitch to the tailpiece. This is a common problem on import guitars that use a higher profile coverplate and tailpiece. For a quick fix, run your strings under the tailpiece instead of over the top which will increase your backpitch from the bridge to the tailpiece.

[This message was edited by Gregg McKenna on 12 July 2003 at 06:03 PM.]

[This message was edited by Gregg McKenna on 12 July 2003 at 06:07 PM.]

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Howard Parker


From:
Maryland
Post  Posted 12 Jul 2003 7:05 pm    
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Quote:
I don't think I would ever set up a guitar with the string height at 9/16". Are you measuring from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string or from the wood of the fretboard to the very top of the string?


It would be the latter. Thanks for the clarification Greg!

hp
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Peter

 

Post  Posted 12 Jul 2003 11:41 pm    
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This specific guitar is a Craftman guitar. It has no stringslots in the bridge and the bridge seems to be made of a very hard ivory colored material.

I do not have the exact string gauges, but judging from my other steels it looks like .17p .20p .26w .36 .46 .54. Open G tuning.

The main strings that are sliding are string 1, 2 and 3. The 2 bridge parts are also sliding together, covering the adjustment screw.

Distance from wood to top of string at fret 19 (last fret) is 7/16. At the nut from wood to top of string is 3/8. The height seems to be OK, but the pitch to the tailpiece is not.

I also received an email about the Melobar "driver". This is a piece of thick pickguard material bolted to the cover and it increases the angle of the strings descending over the bridge.

If I am going to feed the strings UNDER the tailpiece, I would have to put a thin piece of protective plastic on the cover plate to protect it.

Howard, I also checked your website for other information. A great help, thanks!

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Peter den Hartogh-Fender Artist S10-Remington U12-Hilton Volume Pedal-Gibson BR4 lapsteel-Guya "Stringmaster" Copy-MusicMan112RP-Peavy Rage158- - My Animation College in South Africa

Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2003 6:05 am    
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I really think that you need string slots in the bridge. Stewmac: www.stewmac.com sells a tool by which you can do this.
Erv
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Howard Parker


From:
Maryland
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2003 8:35 am    
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Quote:
The main strings that are sliding are string 1, 2 and 3. The 2 bridge parts are also sliding together, covering the adjustment screw.


Yikes...That is not desireable at all. It really sounds as though the guitar needs to be set up properly. I don't see how it's desireable/plausible to play lapstyle acoustic with inserts that are not "notched".

Greg is the resident expert in this thread. I will defer to him.

hp


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Howard Parker
poobah@resoguit.com
www.resoguit.com
ListOwner RESOGUIT-L

[This message was edited by Howard Parker on 13 July 2003 at 09:37 AM.]

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Mike D

 

From:
Phx, Az
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2003 9:44 am    
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The bridge is supposed to be notched. You would have to increase the break angle to ridiculous levels to get them not to move.
It sounds as if the bridge inserts aren't fitted properly too. Get that thing set up right, I think you'll be much happier with the tone afterward.
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R. L. Jones

 

From:
Lake Charles, Louisiana, USA
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2003 8:30 pm    
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Bridge is supposed to be notched or grooved to fit the indivedual string . It will never slip nor buzz

R. L.
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