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Topic: Qs on speaker baflles no. 2 ....silverface Twin/15" |
Tele
From: Andy W. - Wolfenbuettel, Germany
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Posted 8 Jun 2000 10:05 am
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HI again,
now I know what to use but now I need to know how to do it !!
My mid-70s Twin should be converted to a 15" speaker. I do know where to start, how can I take the old baffle out, where can I mount the new one. To me the cabinet and the baffle seems to be one part.
PLEASE HELP !!
Andy |
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Jack Stoner
From: Kansas City, MO
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Posted 8 Jun 2000 11:05 am
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I'm tryting to remember what I did on mine but it's been about 25 years ago. Take the amp chassis out and remove the two speakers. I seem to remember the speaker mounting board being screwed down to the wood mounting rails. However, after you have the amp chassis and the speakers out you should be able to tell how it is mounted.
Make the new mounting board exactly the same size. One thing to be careful of is the placement of the 15" speaker on the board. It is a tight fit (or at least it was on mine with the K130) and you have to position the speaker so it does not interfere with the amp chassis.
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Kevin Mincke
From: Farmington, MN (Twin Cities-South Metro) USA
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Posted 8 Jun 2000 12:09 pm
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On my silverface, the same baffle was used. The 15" JBL was mounted to the right center & then the 15" cut-out was used to cover "fit in" the left 12" speaker hole as your viewing the back of the amp. In fact, part of the 12" right speaker cut-out was also used when the 15" was used as pattern. A couple 2 or 3 of the holes lined up I recall. If you go with a new baffle, save the old to restore it back to origional! |
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Ricky Davis
From: Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 8 Jun 2000 12:26 pm
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Yeah Tele just like Jack said. I just did mine a month ago. Take the chasse out and take the reverb pan out and behind the reverb pan is a wood board at the bottom that the baffleboard is screwed into. Then on top left and right corners is smaller wood boards that the baffle is screwed into. Unscrew and take baffle board right out of the front with speakers in it and everything. Leave the speakers in it in case you want to use it again and keeps it original. Now like Jack said cut a new baffle board the same size and put it on the floor and trace around the 15" speaker pretty much bottom right just close enough to the bottom without interfearing with the bottom mounting board and top right mounting board.
Also 1" in from the 15" circle is the hole you want to cut the and smooth out the cut (rounded). Then put grill cloth on and make sure to pre-drill the holes in the mounting boards so the mounting screws will go in easier without pushing out the baffle board as your doing it.
Have fun.
Ricky[This message was edited by Ricky Davis on 08 June 2000 at 01:28 PM.] |
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Chris Lucker
From: Los Angeles, California USA
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Posted 8 Jun 2000 7:03 pm
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My 1971 Silverface Twin Reverb must be different that those of Ricky and Jack, because my stock baffle was not screwed to vertical runners. Instead, it was stapled and glued into slots routed in the amp sides and simply dropped into a slot in the bottom of the amp. I had to cut my baffle out. I filled the bottom slot with pine and sanded the insides of the amp body smooth and repainted with flat black. I installed the inch and a quarter by one inch runners, made a new baffle out of half inch Baltic Birch, routed a hole for my 4 ohm grey back JBL, and found a single Fender speaker jack.
It is my understanding that if your grille cloth is held on by velcro (the strong size velcro) your baffle will be mounted in the slots, not screwed into runners as in early Silver Faces and BF's.
Don't make a 3/4 inch baffle. Keep it half inch so that you can switch back to your original half inch two speaker baffle if you wish. The half inch baffle becomes 3/4 inches thick anyway after you add the quarter inch surround that raises the grill off the baffle.
My Silverface is a pre-Master Volume that I blackfaced, and switched to cream tolex, wheat grille, black dog bone and black faceplate and black metal Fender nameplate. Gosh, now I can sell it on EBay as a rare collectors item -- The only one Fender ever made!
Chris Lucker |
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Tele
From: Andy W. - Wolfenbuettel, Germany
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Posted 8 Jun 2000 7:16 pm
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Hm..that sounds like a bit more difficult than I thought I would be. I have to go check my amp. I think it is a 1976. AS far as I can remember I haven't seen screws in the board (other than the ones holding the 2x12")so I guess it is not mounted the way Ricky describes it.
Thank you so far.
Andy |
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Kevin Mincke
From: Farmington, MN (Twin Cities-South Metro) USA
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Posted 8 Jun 2000 8:30 pm
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Chris, mine also is slotted on the sides, stapled & glued as you noted. I think this is why the 15" install was done the way it was leaving the baffle intact. Looks like you would have to get into the tolex covering. Not certain the year of mine but it has the master volume. It also has the heavy velcro'd grill panel. Maybe a "72" or so as it was about 5 years old when I bought it. |
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Donny Hinson
From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 8 Jun 2000 9:40 pm
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Slotted, stapled, and glued???
Boy, Fender didn't do STUPID things like that very often! |
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Jack Stoner
From: Kansas City, MO
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Posted 9 Jun 2000 2:17 am
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Mine was an AB768 Chassis model that I purchased in 71. Newer ones may be different. |
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Chris Lucker
From: Los Angeles, California USA
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Posted 9 Jun 2000 10:19 am
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Donny,
I am guessing that Fender started gluing their Twin Reverb baffles into channels routed into the insides of the amp sides and bottom to make the amp more rigid. The baffle is dropped down the front of the amp from the top just where the cutaway for the face plate is.
By the way, I forgot to mention in my post that I defeated Fender's strengthened design in my amp conversion. I used a floating baffle such as that found on a Tweed Era Fender. My baffle is mounted on side runners only.
Chris Lucker |
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Bill Terry
From: Bastrop, TX
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Chris Lucker
From: Los Angeles, California USA
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Posted 9 Jun 2000 3:02 pm
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According to my amp tech who used to work at Fender, although not during the era we are discussing, Fender's switch from screw-in baffles to glue-in baffles phased-in during late-1971 production.
I hold my amp tech in high esteem. He is the first one to power-up anything I build. May the Good Lord watch over him, because I don't always wire things right.
Chris Lucker |
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