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Topic: Sho Bud S10 Rodding advice needed. |
Alan Cook
From:
Kent,England
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Posted 2 Dec 2023 8:43 am |
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I have recently bought a Sho Bud S10 serial number 11769 I think it’s a1977 the changer is 2 raise and 2 lower I think it was made as a 3 pedal 2 knee lever but someone added 2 home made levers I’ve taken one off as it was so badly made. The bell cranks are the 2 hole on a round shaft type. I’ve spent some time setting it up and cleaning the parts but it still seems like it should play better.
Does anyone have a rodding chart for this type of changer?
Thanks.
Alan.
Last edited by Alan Cook on 3 Dec 2023 12:29 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Jim Kennedy
From:
Brentwood California, USA
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Posted 2 Dec 2023 9:25 am
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I have a Pro one of similar vintage, double raise, double lower. Mine plays ok, but would certainly benefit from an overhaul. Mine is a 3 knee, 2, lever Emmons setup, E raise and lower on the right. It's my understanding this was the stock factory setup at the time. I don't have a rodding chart, but it ain't rocket science either. Set up in this way, you can play a lot of music, especially 60's and 70's classic country, if that's your thing. Place the E's where you want them. There are advantages and disadvantages to various placements. Splitting the E's to left and right allows for a much smoother change if you move from E raise to lower or vice versa a lot. Ricky Davis is "The Man" for all Sho Bud mechanical issues. IMHO these are a "Kiss Principle" design. Unless you are "mechanically challenged," their operation is pretty straightforward.
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ShoBud Pro 1, 75 Tele, 85 Yamaha SA 2000, Fender Cybertwin, |
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Alan Cook
From:
Kent,England
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Posted 2 Dec 2023 10:20 am
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Thanks Jim
I really meant which position each rod should be in at the changer and the bell crank here is a chart of what I have now and I’m not sure they are in the best positions. My set up is not standard but I normally play universal so like the E’s on the right. Yes Ricky is the man please help!,hope it makes sense!
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Alan Cook
From:
Kent,England
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Posted 3 Dec 2023 12:28 am Pics
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 3 Dec 2023 6:33 am
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Well the rodding looks fine. Looking at the Pedal Rods pulling A;B;C crossbars; I would move the rod one more closer to the stop; so last hole on end of crossbar puller...that will make the pedal pull less tension.
Any String that Lowers; I take off the little raise spring that hooks to that bracket on bottom of body.
No raise should be in 2 position on bell crank; sure, it will pull faster; but just adds tension> the longer the pull; the smoother less tense.
Also; try and get rid of any extra slack of when the nylon tuner hits finger> as Slack ADDS Flex/Tension. If you turn nylon tuner in to get rid of slack; you'll need more distance to the stop for that finger...yes it's mainly on the high string of same notes on crossbar; but it is the high note that will create the flex and tension moreso with slack then the lower string for that same note.
Ok; try those; see how it plays.
Ricky
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Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com |
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Alan Cook
From:
Kent,England
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Posted 3 Dec 2023 7:26 am
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 Wow Ricky
I’ve done those and it plays lovely now I’ve never had a Sho bud that was set up as poorly as this was and I don't think it’s been played for 20 years!
Is anyone making Sho bud parts these day?
Are my pedal rods in the correct holes see pic?
Thanks so much for the help.
Alan |
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John Hyland
From:
South Australia
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Posted 3 Dec 2023 11:55 am
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| From memory on my bud the B pedal should be on the other hole to reduce the travel of the pedal. But is does depend which hole you hook the rod into at the body end. All that said the pedals A and B should land at the same height. |
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John Hyland
From:
South Australia
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Posted 3 Dec 2023 11:57 am
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| From memory on my bud the B pedal should be on the other hole to reduce the travel of the pedal. |
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 3 Dec 2023 4:56 pm
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Alan; I'm talking about moving the pedal rods to these holes I circled in "RED".
and yes the rods hooked to the ball joint on pedals are ok there; I like them there to get rod back from feet a little more.
Ricky
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Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com |
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Alan Cook
From:
Kent,England
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Posted 4 Dec 2023 8:03 am
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Thanks Ricky
Yes I’ve done the pedal rods too that’s just an old pic. I’ve changed all of the raise bell cranks to the lower position and removed the springs on the lowered strings, got rid of as much slack as possible and it plays much better. You should right a Sho Bud book Ricky excellent advice thanks.
Alan |
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 4 Dec 2023 8:12 am
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| Quote: |
Thanks Ricky
Yes I’ve done the pedal rods too that’s just an old pic. I’ve changed all of the raise bell cranks to the lower position and removed the springs on the lowered strings, got rid of as much slack as possible and it plays much better. You should right a Sho Bud book Ricky excellent advice thanks.
Alan |
Awesome bro, continue on.
Oh P.S.
Those are actually the special double raise double lower fingers Paul Franklin Sr designed and made. , and they were only put in the '77 models and they're the best moving and bracket system ShoBud had. Leave it to Paul Franklin Sr, to do something Beyond Regular ShoBud.
yeehaw.
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Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com |
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