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Post new topic Legs on Franklin need to be different lengths now…uh oh
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Author Topic:  Legs on Franklin need to be different lengths now…uh oh
Glenn Demichele


From:
(20mi N of) Chicago Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 13 Sep 2023 4:34 pm    
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I got my Franklin d10 new in 1994. Both my front legs are the same length of course, tight against the pedal bar. Over the years I’ve noticed that one of my rear legs has to be made shorter than the other or else both back legs don’t sit tight on the floor. I guess my guitar body is warping over time? Should I not worry about it (plays fine), or try and fix it? Is it getting ready to explode? My right leg (changer side) has to be 1/4” shorter than the left.
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Franklin D10 8&5, Excel D10 8&5. Both amazing guitars! Homemade buffer/overdrive with adjustable 700Hz "Fender" scoop., Moyo pedal, GT-001 effects, 2x TDA7294 80W class AB amps, or 2x BAM200 for stereo. TT12 and BW1501 each in its own closed back wedge. Also NV400 etc. etc...
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Chris Harwood


From:
Kentucky, USA
Post  Posted 13 Sep 2023 6:02 pm    
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We used to jam something like a pack of matches, under the 8 track...then it'd usually play. I suspect a similar fix would work on pedal steel stability, but I wouldn't put the leg near any rags that might have cleaned up any gasoline spills.
Hot licks with user discretion if around said rags.
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Bobby D. Jones

 

From:
West Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 13 Sep 2023 8:37 pm    
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Under the strain of 20 strings on the guitar, If one or both the boards in the top warped 1/8th inch (.125) could be causing the problem.

Set the guitar on a level surface. (Like a glass top desk, or granite counter.) Adjust the legs tight, Set a good accurate level across the end plates of the guitar, The level should tell the story.

If wood is not sealed completely, Moisture entering or escaping the wood can make it change. Heat or air conditioners drop moisture in the air and can affect wood.

The more figure wood has in it the more radical it will react to the raising or lowering of moisture level.

As long as the guitar tunes proper and holds tuning should be no problem. Happy Steelin.
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Glenn Demichele


From:
(20mi N of) Chicago Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 14 Sep 2023 8:55 pm    
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Thanks. I need more advice I’m afraid. I loosened my strings, cleaned the guitar, and checked the tightness of the screws holding the necks, endplates and levers etc. screwed into the top of the cabinet. Everything was pretty tight after all these years, but one screw just spun like it was stripped, and pulled right out. It is a machine screw (not a wood screw), so I think it was one holding the neck to the body.? It’s near string 1 of the C6. For now it’s out. Can I leave it, or do I need to re-tap the neck or helicoil it (I cannot myself)? Here are pics. BTW when PF sr. built it for me in 1992, I asked him to sign it. He was surprised and maybe flattered. When I picked it up n St. Louis, I was astounded that he had Jr. sign it too. What great guys.








_________________
Franklin D10 8&5, Excel D10 8&5. Both amazing guitars! Homemade buffer/overdrive with adjustable 700Hz "Fender" scoop., Moyo pedal, GT-001 effects, 2x TDA7294 80W class AB amps, or 2x BAM200 for stereo. TT12 and BW1501 each in its own closed back wedge. Also NV400 etc. etc...
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Bobby D. Jones

 

From:
West Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 15 Sep 2023 11:44 am    
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Try an easy fix first.

Remove another screw that attaches the neck, Check and compare length and diameter. If the screws are the same length and diameter.

Check the depth of the hole the screw goes in, With a tooth pick and compare with screw. If depth allows, Get a same diameter/thread 1/4 inch longer screw and check if longer screw will tighten in the hole.

Would be good to check the threads in the hole with a proper size bottoming tap, If handy. Be careful don't put to much pressure on the screw. Make sure it contacts the body of the guitar.

If this does not take care of the problem. Then it may require more work, Like removing the neck and hole repair.
Good Luck getting this problem solved. Happy Steelin.
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Glenn Demichele


From:
(20mi N of) Chicago Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 15 Sep 2023 5:59 pm    
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Thanks Robby. I am mystified a bit. First, I’m not really sure it’s a neck screw. I tried your first experiment, and measured the depth, and it was a full 1/4 inch deeper than the screw that was there! I cut a new screw of the same size (#6) and thread, and it dropped to the bottom without catching any threads. Maybe there is a displaced nut that was supposed to catch it, or maybe just the wrong size screw was inserted during manufacturing.
_________________
Franklin D10 8&5, Excel D10 8&5. Both amazing guitars! Homemade buffer/overdrive with adjustable 700Hz "Fender" scoop., Moyo pedal, GT-001 effects, 2x TDA7294 80W class AB amps, or 2x BAM200 for stereo. TT12 and BW1501 each in its own closed back wedge. Also NV400 etc. etc...
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Bobby D. Jones

 

From:
West Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 15 Sep 2023 6:33 pm    
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It could have been a screw size was just miss identified and installed.
The threads on an all thread screws is hard to identify with just 1 screw laying on a bench.

Thread size was my reason for asking to remove screw with same purpose and compare length and diameter.

You may want to try a 8-32 thread screw.
Good Luck and Happy steelin.
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Glenn Demichele


From:
(20mi N of) Chicago Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 15 Sep 2023 7:12 pm    
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Thanks Bobby: At least it doesn't seem to be a "critical" screw, although it might be that that bad screw is what makes Franklins sound that way (I don't believe it for a second). I don't know how much the necks actually contribute to the stiffness of the cabinet. If there are any other Franklin mechanics out there that could tell me the purpose of the screw at the 1st string side of the C6....
There is another screw in that same piece of metal, but its at a slightly different distance from the endplate, and it looks like a panhead wood screw. My problem one is a #6 flathead machine screw.
_________________
Franklin D10 8&5, Excel D10 8&5. Both amazing guitars! Homemade buffer/overdrive with adjustable 700Hz "Fender" scoop., Moyo pedal, GT-001 effects, 2x TDA7294 80W class AB amps, or 2x BAM200 for stereo. TT12 and BW1501 each in its own closed back wedge. Also NV400 etc. etc...
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Jim Palenscar

 

From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
Post  Posted 16 Sep 2023 5:39 am    
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I might not be understanding in all of this but I thought that the initial thread was about the length of the legs- and they are generally adjustable so I'm not understanding the problem. If the the screw that has come out is a neck screw- forget about it- just can't tell by the pics. You should be able to tell by using Bobby's recommendations.
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Glenn Demichele


From:
(20mi N of) Chicago Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 16 Sep 2023 6:11 am    
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Thanks Jim. Sorry everybody, I guess I hijacked my own thread. I was thinking that the uneven leg length might be from cabinet movement, so i thought I'd go under the guitar and make sure all screws were snug. I found a couple loose wood screws which held the endplates. Snugging them up actually got rid of a little cabinet drop on the E9 3rd string when pushing the A pedal.
During this whole process I found this mystery screw that just spun freely. Now I'm thinking it might help hold the changer. So here we are. I'll start a new "Franklin Mystery Screw" thread. I am still interested in stories about uneven leg length however.
_________________
Franklin D10 8&5, Excel D10 8&5. Both amazing guitars! Homemade buffer/overdrive with adjustable 700Hz "Fender" scoop., Moyo pedal, GT-001 effects, 2x TDA7294 80W class AB amps, or 2x BAM200 for stereo. TT12 and BW1501 each in its own closed back wedge. Also NV400 etc. etc...
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 16 Sep 2023 6:45 am    
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Glenn Demichele wrote:
.... I am still interested in stories about uneven leg length however.

I got a new Carter around 1998. I can't remember it the irregular leg length came with the guitar or if it developed over time. It is perfectly possible that it just took me time to notice it but it also could have been that it was inadequately seasoned wood that hadn't yet settled into its final shape.

Basically, if there were floor tiles for visual reference, you could see that when the rear legs were lined up to a tile line, the two front legs were at least an inch different in relation to the nearest floor line. Which also meant that they had to be extended to different lengths. The body was warping. It does not take much warp to manifest itself in significant differences in the extended legs. As far as I could tell, it was not a progressive issue over time. Once the leg lengths were established, it seemed stable.

Some day I'll rebuild it and evaluate these things (it has been confined in a case for many years).
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