| Author |
Topic: Pushing pedals down all the way? |
Tom Wolverton
From:
Carpinteria, CA
|
Posted 15 Apr 2023 10:45 pm |
|
I have an Emmons SKH D-10. Lately I’ve noticed that it seems like I have to press the A&B pedals just right (and fully) to get the change to sound in true. If I don’t press hard down, it doesn’t play the chord change well (in tune). This is the same for B & C together.
Is this an adjustment issue? It seems like it’s getting worse lately. Any advice?
Tom
_________________
To write with a broken pencil is pointless. |
|
|
 |
Bob Hoffnar
From:
Austin, Tx
|
Posted 16 Apr 2023 6:49 am
|
|
Yea, it needs adjustment. Check for overtuning first then look for anything blocking movement or binding along the underside and in the changer. I had the ball end of a string fall into tye changer one time that caused that issue.
_________________
Bob |
|
|
|
Tom Wolverton
From:
Carpinteria, CA
|
Posted 16 Apr 2023 10:04 am
|
|
Thanks, Bob. What do you mean by overtuning?
_________________
To write with a broken pencil is pointless. |
|
|
|
K Maul
From:
Hadley, NY/Hobe Sound, FL
|
Posted 16 Apr 2023 11:40 am
|
|
Overtuning:
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=326460
_________________
KEVIN MAUL: Airline, Beard, Clinesmith, Donner, Evans, Excel, Fender, Fluger, Gibson, Hilton, Ibanez, Justice, K+K, Live Strings, MOYO, National, Oahu, Peterson, Quilter, Rickenbacher, Sho~Bud, Supro, TC, Ultimate, VHT, Williams, X-otic, Yamaha, ZKing. |
|
|
|
Mike Vallandigham
From:
Martinez, CA
|
Posted 16 Apr 2023 12:11 pm
|
|
| Also check that the bell cranks are not loose on the cross shafts. |
|
|
|
Tom Wolverton
From:
Carpinteria, CA
|
Posted 16 Apr 2023 1:39 pm
|
|
Kevin. Thank you for this info. I know it well from my Sho-Bud days.
_________________
To write with a broken pencil is pointless. |
|
|
|
Tom Wolverton
From:
Carpinteria, CA
|
Posted 16 Apr 2023 1:40 pm
|
|
Thanks Mike. I will do that.
_________________
To write with a broken pencil is pointless. |
|
|
|
Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
|
Posted 16 Apr 2023 1:53 pm
|
|
Lot of good suggestions in previous posts. Check the pedal stops also, Lock nut may have come loose and moved.
Good Luck finding the problem and fix, Happy Steelin. |
|
|
|
Pat Chong
From:
New Mexico, USA
|
Posted 16 Apr 2023 2:11 pm
|
|
Hi, Tom.
Another suggestion is to make sure that the pedals are stopping, or "bottoming out" at the same level. If one pedal is bottoming out higher than the other you have to cock your foot/ankle or press harder to make sure they are in tune when used together. Ties in with what Bob just mentioned...
Hope it helps finding the problem.
......Pat. |
|
|
|
Roger Rettig
From:
Naples, FL
|
Posted 17 Apr 2023 5:50 am
|
|
Odd this should crop up here because I have the same problem (LeGrande 111).
All my pedals work beautifully - except #4!!
On E9, it's lowering 9,6,3 a half-step and, on C6, it's lowering the G to an F.
The pedal is mushy and ill-defined. I have to push really hard and, if I push that bit too hard, the notes lower more than they're supposed to!
I tried slacking off the lower-return springs but that just resulted in the strings not returning to pitch; I put them back where they had been.
The E9 change is a great one (a half-diminished - C#m7b5 or an A9 at zero fret) but I shy away from using it now.
I have attached the rods as near to the cross-shaft as possible and the bell-cranks are firmly tightened. What else should I try?
_________________
Roger Rettig - Emmons D10, JCH D10, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
---------------------------------- |
|
|
|
Bengt Erlandsen
From:
Brekstad, NORWAY
|
Posted 17 Apr 2023 7:41 am
|
|
@Roger Rettig
| Quote: |
| I have attached the rods as near to the cross-shaft as possible |
That aint gonna work as it will make strings not lowering syncronized in pitch.
With a small screwdriver gently push on each of the lowering fingers one at a time and make a note how much each finger needs to move in order to do the correct pitch change for that string. The finger with the least movement need to be closest(relative) to the cross-shaft and the lowering finger with the longest movement need be furthest away from crosshaft (relative to positions of the 3 other pull rods)
If all four fingers move the same amount(not likely) then they could all be at same hole away from cross-shaft.
Preferrably all the 4 strings should start lowering at the same time and also reach their destination pitch at same time.
The lowering limit screw might be used on one or more strings if pulls are impossible to get syncronized properly.
Syncronized pulls on pedals and levers make your guitar play like  instead of 
B.Erlandsen
Zumsteel S12ext E9 7+7 |
|
|
|
Roger Rettig
From:
Naples, FL
|
Posted 17 Apr 2023 8:50 am
|
|
I was afraid of that, Bengt!
That takes me to another level of DIY guitar-teching.
Do you mean:
Push on the lowering-finger itself? That's in the changer-end (the hole in the end-plate)? I'd push on the metal rather than the hex-tuner?
_________________
Roger Rettig - Emmons D10, JCH D10, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
---------------------------------- |
|
|
|
Bengt Erlandsen
From:
Brekstad, NORWAY
|
Posted 17 Apr 2023 10:03 am
|
|
Yep. directly on the lovering finger itself. Pluck the string, push gently with a small flathead screwdriver(so it doesnt interfere with the nylon tuner) until string reach correct pitch and make a note how much that particular finger has to move. Once you know how much each finger need to move it is a lot easier and less trial and error to figure which hole the pullrod need to be positioned in at the cross-shaft.
B.Erlandsen |
|
|
|
Roger Rettig
From:
Naples, FL
|
Posted 17 Apr 2023 10:48 am
|
|
Thank you!
_________________
Roger Rettig - Emmons D10, JCH D10, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
---------------------------------- |
|
|
|
