Sierra Endplate Cap

Mike DiAlesandro · From: Kent, Ohio

Hello - I am working on a customers older Sierra S12 and one issue is that a previous owner butchered the changer endplate cap.

It appears to me that the whole guitar would have to be disassembled and the top laminates removed to get to the screws that secure it on from the top deck.

Just wondering what you Sierra mechanics have to say about this and if my thinking is correct. If that is required, the customer will pass on that getting replaced.

Here is a photo, thanks much.

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

I'm looking hard, trying to find the alteration.

(That's my way of saying "ouch!")

Erv Niehaus · From: Litchfield, MN, USA

I wonder what the reason for that was?
And what's with that big bolt sticking out the side? Whoa!

Erv

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

I think the bolt is for the folding leg attachment.

I'm not sure that removing the end plate is even feasible. It appears from other photos that the end plate fits in a rabbeted joint in the frame. I have no idea how it's fastened.

I used to have a Sierra brochure that showed the components disassembled, if I can find it, I'll post it here.

I don't know if it can be disassembled without destroying the guitar or even if you could find another end plate.

Looks to me like he's just stuck with what he's got.

Aluminum can be welded, but that's a big hole to try to patch plus looks like there's some other boogering on it.

If it's mine and I wanted to cover up the mess, I'd have a machine shop craft a thin aluminum plate to fit over it.

It could be installed with some automotive panel adhesive.

Scott Swartz · From: St. Louis, MO

I am wondering since the Sierra is extrusions that bolt together if continuity in the endplate will factor into the body rigidity and therefore cabinet drop.

If you got the endplate off a skilled machinist and welder could patch in the missing aluminum but might be expensive.
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Steeltronics - Steel Guitar Pickups
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Kevin Swan · From: Medina, Ohio

Bob Sigafoos · From: San Clemente, Calif. , U.S.

A couple thoughts have run thru my noggin.1.. maybe weld a piece of aluminum with a square cross section of 3/8” or so to the skirt bottom to bridge both sides of the gap to help for any cabinet flex. 2. Tack weld a rectangular piece on the inside and do a puddle weld to fill the gap (lots of welding and heat necessary). 3. Make a piece of aluminum slightly smaller than the hole and tack weld it a few places and use JB weld type stuff to fill cracks and smooth over.

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

The output jack should be at the rear hole of the endplate nearest the player..

The other three holes, depending on the era/setup of the guitar would be used for:

Tone Control
Switch to activate tone control
Switch to select triple range pickup position.

I still believe the best solution is to hire a machine shop to build a cover plate. Probably 1/8 in. 6061 is strong enough.

They can make the necessary cutouts for the controls and the return spring adjustments if they have the guitar or the exact dimensions for all the cutouts. If your pickup is not a triple range or you don't require a tone control, you could just leave them go. I'd want 'em if it's me.

These days, automotive panel adhesive is used to attach whole roofs to vehicles so it would certainly hold a plate so that you wouldn't have mounting screws showing.

Good luck though however and if you proceed. JO.

Ross Shafer · From: Petaluma, California

I do not think this will have much of a dire affect on stiffness/tuning stability. The rigidity of that one leg might be compromised a bit. But the swiveling legs were never stiff enough (side to side) in my opinion anyway.

That huge missing chunk could easily be filled in by cutting a piece of aluminum to fit then welding the whole thing up. It's possible to get it pretty dang close to stock looking...frame would have to be emptied. Ideally Mica would be removed to prevent damage to it and the contact cement that's holding it on.

I once cut some D10 endplates in half removed a section and rewelded them into S10 size. You had to know it was done or examine it carefully to even tell it'd been done.

If all you're after is a functioning steel guitar, put a sticker over it and play on.

J D Sauser · From: Wellington, Florida

[quote="Mike DiAlesandro"]Hello - I am working on a customers older Sierra S12 and one issue is that a previous owner butchered the changer endplate cap.

It appears to me that the whole guitar would have to be disassembled and the top laminates removed to get to the screws that secure it on from the top deck.

Just wondering what you Sierra mechanics have to say about this and if my thinking is correct. If that is required, the customer will pass on that getting replaced.

You might want to ask the current SIERRA Co. Team... they MIGHT have some parts left or maybe the drawings to make a new one.

I had a SESSION... from the bolt the the pedal stop rack I believe this would be a CROWN model preceding the SESSION. On BOTH, I believe you would be correct that you'd have to take the mica off to get to any bolts ruing from the channel into the end plates.

... J-D.
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Was it JFK who said: Ask Not What TAB Can Do For You - Rather Ask Yourself "What Would B.B. King Do?"

A Little Mental Health Warning:

Tablature KILLS SKILLS.
The uses of Tablature is addictive and has been linked to reduced musical fertility.
Those who produce Tablature did never use it.

I say it humorously, but I mean it.

Len Amaral · From: Rehoboth,MA 02769

What Ross Shafer said I agree with the spot welding. Take it to someone experienced in welding aluminum and protect all surrounding areas.
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Pete Burak · From: Portland, OR USA

I have a Crown Series Steel.
If I ended up with that Steel I would just set it up and play it as is.
I don't think that huge gouge is going to actually cause much of a problem.
Did you already remove a bunch of rods?... or have all the other rods? It appears to be missing alot of Standard Pulls.
I would have loved to have been there the day someone did that!
Measure twice!
Smile

Joe Krumel · From: Hermitage, Tn.

Just when you think you've seen it all!........ ,,,,,

Charlie Hansen · From: Halifax, NS Canada and Various Southern Towns.

Square up the hole and make a piece to fit snugly and secure it with the automotive adhesive that was mentioned above.
Seems pretty straight forward but, of course I'm no expert.
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Mike DiAlesandro · From: Kent, Ohio

Thanks to everyone for all the ideas and suggestions. My main question was if it was feasible to remove the endplate without removing the mica, which obviously it isn't.

I just wanted to check, as if removal was possible, taking it to a machine shop and having them weld a piece in with clean edges would have been a nice solution.

So, plan B will be Kevins choice, I'm thinking a nice sticker Ala Ross's suggestion just might be the way to go...

Very interesting discussion 😊

Pete Burak · From: Portland, OR USA

What tuning are you going to put on it?
Just curious.

Mike DiAlesandro · From: Kent, Ohio

Pete Burak · From: Portland, OR USA

Jim Palanscar at Steel Guitars Of North County in Oceanside CA will have parts for that Steel I bet.
https://steelguitars.me/
Be very careful about overtightening those Delrin pedal-stops. They crack easily after all these years. I have used a slice of a wooden Dowell to make a quick replacement part.

Mike DiAlesandro · From: Kent, Ohio

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

That looks like 1 of those Saturday afternoon jobs, With Fire Water helping make the decision, That on Monday morning someone would be bringing it into the shops where I once worked.

Looks like someone wanted to install some control or switch and the metal was to thick to install it, So they cut out the thick metal and cover it with a piece of thin metal and installed the wanted controls.,

For the big slot if no controls, Smooth and Bevel edges, cut and fit a piece of matching aluminum, Weld in patch, Weld fill in the random screw holes. Sand down and polish to match rest of guitar finish.

If the switches or controls need to be reinstalled, And no heat on the area.
For the big slot, Clean up the slot with files. Cut back into end plate 1/2" inch X 1/2" deep on edge, And fit a filler piece of aluminum thickness of end plate X 1/2"wide, Drill proper size holes in end plate and filler piece, Thread holes in end plate, Then drill proper size hole and counter sink holes in filler and attach the filler block with rated bolts for strength. Cut a small plate to fit over the big slot and drill and tap end plate for new well laid out screws, Attach switches or controls.
For the screw holes over the end plate. Drill out each hole proper size and tap for 1/4" tapered pipe threads, Turn a piece of aluminum and taper pipe thread, Screw in tight with epoxy and cut off even with end plate, File, Sand and Polish end plate to match guitar.

Kevin Swan · From: Medina, Ohio

Mike, As long as it doesn't -- or probably won't -- do anything to harm the playability, please file the edges square, pretty up the jagged places and leave it open the way it is. I can't imagine much of anything would be affected sound-wise. Should look way better than that funky checker plate patch that was bolted on when I adopted the beast. It may never leave the barn studio until right after they carry my dead body out in a wheeled steel guitar flight case.

And for the "zero pedal" do you recall how you set up the Willie D-12? I'd like them both to change mostly the same on the E9th neck. I'm easily confused. (As you must already know! Plumbing I understand, steel undercarriages, not so much.)
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J D Sauser · From: Wellington, Florida

Picky-OCD-me would not be able to enjoy this instrument butchered up as it is.

I would take that end plate off, and have a machine shop make a new one.
Replace the mica with a fancy one, update the mechanism and then play the hell out of it.
They were great sounding instruments (as BE would note, especially for C6th!) and the pedal stops were much better on these CROWN than on the early versions of the following SESSION models.
The only reproach I might have is the lack of a dedicated split tuning set screw (can be achieved with an additional pull, though), but then, that changer has more parts than any other I would know.

... J-D.
_________________
__________________________________________________________

Was it JFK who said: Ask Not What TAB Can Do For You - Rather Ask Yourself "What Would B.B. King Do?"

A Little Mental Health Warning:

Tablature KILLS SKILLS.
The uses of Tablature is addictive and has been linked to reduced musical fertility.
Those who produce Tablature did never use it.

I say it humorously, but I mean it.

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