Changer Endplate Popping

Anthony Campbell · From: Northwest Indiana, USA

On my Williams I've noticed that If I use my RKR and my AB Pedal in combination, it feels/sounds like my changer endplate it popping. I've taken everything apart (legs/rods, pedal rack),lubricated any moving parts, and inspected to see if anything appears to be loose.

This is a lacquer/wood keyless D10, and the lacquer is quite thick. I can imagine some body flex/rubbing on the metal plate will cause this, in combination with the lower humidity from the furnace. I'm certainly not playing hard, or stomping on anything.

Is this somewhat common in the winter? My other guitar was a GFI so this perceived problem wouldn't have existed.

Anything else to check for, or should I just chill?

Changes are all playing in tune and returning to pitch properly.
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Williams Keyless D10
Goodrich Volume
Quilter 101R and Quilter IB45

Ron Pruter · From: Arizona, USA

Anthony, the trouble with this is ones lack of being able to be two places at once. No this problem is not acceptable. Show someone else how to do exactly what makes it pop.. have them do it while you crawl under there, with determination and a flash light, to find the problem. Something is climbing up on something then slipping off; catching and releasing. Good luck. It can be very uncomfortable under there. Back aches and neck aches can ensue. 🤔 RP
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Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112.

Dan Ray · From: North Carolina, USA

I think this pop for me is more of a loud abrasive 'creak' so to speak. I could definitely understand describing it as a 'pop' though.

I've noticed this on my Williams D10 600 also. If I position the heights of the back 2 legs just right, so that the leg closest to RKR can't move at all, this problem goes away for the most part.

I've also noticed this particular sound if I readjust that leg, or even wiggle it a little bit in the case as I'm putting it together. My old Shobud did the same thing.

I would think tightening the screw that holds the end plate on to the back apron would help, but take all of my words with a grain of salt as I'm still very much a beginner at all of this.

Anyone else got that RKR creak/pop??
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Williams D10 600 9x9, Quilter Cub, Helix FX
Steel Newbie.
Over 20 years playing drums and guitar.

Anthony Campbell · From: Northwest Indiana, USA

Dan Ray · From: North Carolina, USA

Definitely not alone!

The main way I remedy this is by first making sure there's is plenty of weight on that leg. Meaning, making sure that the left leg isn't slightly higher than the right. Carpet makes this more difficult because it has some give to it but my point is, you want that right rear leg as stable as possible and giving it more of the weight/load of the guitar would help that.

After that's done, I'll put my foot right next to the rubber end of the rear right leg (on the carpet) and shove the rubber end of the leg just a tiny bit to the right. It'll actually cause that creak sound, but what your doing is securing that leg. When I shove it slightly to the right, in the carpet, the leg creaks and then stays there. After that I can hit RKR for a good while with no creak. You may notice that sometimes RKL will pull that leg back inwards, causing the creak to happen, but I simply move that leg every so slightly back or as I call it, lock it back into place.

Now, I'm sure my guitar just needs some maintenance or something but this is just my quick and lazy fix. I'd love to hear some others chime in!

P.S. This was super hard to explain and I'm sure I did a poor job, if you'd like me to elaborate, just ask.
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Williams D10 600 9x9, Quilter Cub, Helix FX
Steel Newbie.
Over 20 years playing drums and guitar.

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

From your description of the problem, It could be that the lacquer is sticking to the inside to the aluminum flange on the end plate. When the body is put under pressure of the Pedals and Knee Lever engagement, The body is moving inside the end plate.

I would contact Williams, And ask them if they have had this problem before. And if there is some powdered Teflon or Silicone liquid that could be safely used to break the friction between the Lacquered Wood and Aluminum plate.

Good luck on this problem, Happy Steelin.

Ron Pruter · From: Arizona, USA

I still say this is unacceptable. Try loosening the endplate screw. Then slip a piece of wax paper down in there.. If you can do both front and back of both aprons, a total of four on the one endplate. Tighten the screws, trim the wax paper and see if it still creeks. RP
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Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112.

Darvin Willhoite · From: Roxton, Tx. USA

Like Bobby said, start with calling the guy that built it. Bill is a super guy and will be glad to help you.
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Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro.

Dan Ray · From: North Carolina, USA

Yes Bobby, I think it has something to do with the wood/lacquer touching the end plate. I would love to try to get in there to either tighten it or lubricate it in some way but I'm just a novice and theres a lot going on under the hood of this guitar. I will eventually bring it to someone for servicing.

And yes, I know that Bill is a wonderful guy. I'm still waiting on my SD12 order back from May of 21'. Spoken with him a few times, they're just having trouble getting parts.

Thanks for everyone's input!
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Williams D10 600 9x9, Quilter Cub, Helix FX
Steel Newbie.
Over 20 years playing drums and guitar.

Anthony Campbell · From: Northwest Indiana, USA

Thanks all. I really think this is partly a humidity issue from the furnace being on now, although we do have a humidifier going. To tighten any screws that hold body to the changer endplate would require some surgery right now that Im a little skittish about. Bill is certainly always responsive. I can definitely reach out and see what he says.
_________________
Williams Keyless D10
Goodrich Volume
Quilter 101R and Quilter IB45

Erv Niehaus · From: Litchfield, MN, USA

Bill doesn't use lacquer, he uses a different method to finish his guitars.
He cures the finish in an oven so there is NO sticking when the guitars are
assembled. Whoa!

Erv

Anthony Campbell · From: Northwest Indiana, USA

Hi All,

Bill reccomended a tiny drop of lube on each 3 sides where the plate meets the apron. (I used Tri-Flow).

Worked like a charm.

_________________
Williams Keyless D10
Goodrich Volume
Quilter 101R and Quilter IB45

Ron Pruter · From: Arizona, USA

Alright ! We all learned something.
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Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112.

Dan Ray · From: North Carolina, USA

Oh my gosh that's wonderful news!

Thank you Anthony! I will try this when I get home
_________________
Williams D10 600 9x9, Quilter Cub, Helix FX
Steel Newbie.
Over 20 years playing drums and guitar.

Henry Matthews · From: Texarkana, Ark USA

Glad it’s ok now but I never heard of such a thing and don’t see how it could make that noise as well made as these guitars are. The end plate doesn’t move against the wood I wouldn’t think. I think something fixed it’s self. If it did, it will act up again but I am glad it’s ok now.
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Henry Matthews

D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

We found the Problem, And Williams came up with the cure.
Good Luck and Happy Steelin.

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