| Author |
Topic: Lift Kit for MSA Classic |
Jason Walston
From:
Los Angeles, CA
|
Posted 22 Oct 2022 3:24 am |
|
Hi All, I’ve realized that I’ve failed
to learn pedal steel in the past because at 6’4 steels
I’ve owned in the pas were too short
for me (and I lacked the proper equipment).
I have a great deal on a 70’s msa classic d10
and I’m wondering if anyone makes a 2” lift kit
For classic msa guitars. Thanks! |
|
|
 |
Richard Sinkler
From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
|
Posted 22 Oct 2022 9:07 am
|
|
If they used the same size rods and threads and ball joint type connection as almost every other brand, you can get the lift kit from the Steel Guitar Forum store at https://www.steelguitarshopper.com/accessories/ . You will still need to make a 2" spacer to fit over the bottom section of the legs between the pedal bar and leg clutch to prevent the pedal bar from trying to rise up the leg when you press the pedals. This can be any type of tubing that will fit over the smaller tube of the leg. I could never understand why the makers of lift kits didn't include these spacers.
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 54 years and still counting. |
|
|
|
Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
|
Posted 22 Oct 2022 3:49 pm
|
|
| Richard Sinkler wrote: |
| ...You will still need to make a 2" spacer to fit over the bottom section of the legs between the pedal bar and leg clutch to prevent the pedal bar from trying to rise up the leg when you press the pedals. This can be any type of tubing that will fit over the smaller tube of the leg. I could never understand why the makers of lift kits didn't include these spacers. |
Could be because on some brands (like the ZB, and Sierra, and a lot of "student steels"), the short spacers would be useless. While on others that have holes in the legs and the pedal board mounted by screws (like the older MSA's), a leg spacer is not really required. |
|
|
|
Darvin Willhoite
From:
Roxton, Tx. USA
|
Posted 22 Oct 2022 7:37 pm
|
|
I have to raise all of my steels up 1 1/2"-1 3/4" whatever it takes to get 27 1/2" from the floor to the bottom of the guitar. I make my own, but I have machining equipment. Jim Palanscar can probably help you. This is the way I have done it on a P/P, but I usually use a solid sleeve on the legs now.
_________________
Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro. |
|
|
|
Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
|
Posted 22 Oct 2022 8:23 pm
|
|
If your guitar has the 2 bolts with wing nuts to attach the pedal bar to the front legs, Just extend the legs to fit your height. Then install a dowel rod in the outer leg tube of both front legs of the proper length, So the legs will not collapse when shoving the pedals.
If the steel has clips that hold the Pedal Bar on legs, You will need 2 shaft lock rings with screws to fit the small leg tube as stops to keep the pedal bar from sliding up the legs.
Take a Pedal Rod and go to a local hardware store. Add the proper length threaded extender and a threaded set screw to extend the pedal rod to proper length. Buy Extenders and set screws for each Pedal Rod on the guitar and a little tube of Loc-Tite. Extend all Pedal Rods to proper length, And Loc-Tite connector to pull rod and set screw, Use lock nut to adjust exact rod length.
Good Luck and Happy Steelin. |
|
|
|
