Author |
Topic: N'ville 112 didn't turn on |
Chris Brooks
From: Providence, Rhode Island
|
Posted 28 Aug 2022 4:01 pm
|
|
Hi folks. Got to the gig way early, set up steel and stuff--and my trusty reliable Nashville 112 wouldn't turn on. No light. No sound.
My first guess (not an electronics guy) is the fuse. Where is the fuse? Where the power cord goes into the chassis? The operating manual doesn't say.
And is it indeed a 5A fuse? Can I change it myself?
Anything else you can think of? It's worked great for years.
(BTW the bass player had by chance brought a small bass amp + speaker cab . . . so I was able to play the gig!) |
|
|
|
Clyde Mattocks
From: Kinston, North Carolina, USA
|
Posted 28 Aug 2022 5:12 pm
|
|
Had the same problem. The removable power cord had slipped down just enough to not make conatact. _________________ LeGrande II, Nash. 112, Fender Twin Tone Master, Session 400, Harlow Dobro, R.Q.Jones Dobro |
|
|
|
Chris Brooks
From: Providence, Rhode Island
|
Posted 28 Aug 2022 5:57 pm
|
|
Clyde, I sort of pushed and wiggled the power cord plug that goes into the amp.
Now that I have it at home, I'll be able to check it better. All my Peaveys have been super-reliable . . . . |
|
|
|
David Nugent
From: Gum Spring, Va.
|
Posted 29 Aug 2022 6:18 am
|
|
Chris..Been a while since I have removed the chassis from the cabinet on my '112' so do not recall, but there may be an internal fuse present. |
|
|
|
Howard Parker
From: Maryland
|
Posted 29 Aug 2022 6:25 am
|
|
Remove chassis. My 112 has a fuse on the board that snaps/clips on. Glass fuse so you should be able to do a visible check.
h |
|
|
|
Chris Brooks
From: Providence, Rhode Island
|
Posted 29 Aug 2022 6:52 am
|
|
Thanks, Howard (and David)! Sounds easier than I thought/feared. I am not a tech guy--simply playing steel takes all my attention. |
|
|
|
Chris Brooks
From: Providence, Rhode Island
|
Posted 29 Aug 2022 8:00 am
|
|
OK, I dropped the chassis and located the fuse. I pulled it out: 4A, 250 V, right?
It looks like ceramic and looks fine. No discoloration, not broken, etc. Could it still be a burned-out fuse?
Or is it time to send the chassis back to Peavey (Or find a good local guy)?
Thanks for all your help! As I said, I have had nothing but perfect operation from Peavey amps (though I broke off a knob on this one before getting a knob guard. |
|
|
|
Donny Hinson
From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
|
Posted 29 Aug 2022 8:27 am
|
|
Yes, the fuse could still be bad. (Porcelain fuses give no visual indication when they blow, like glass or plastic fuses do.) |
|
|
|
George Biner
From: Los Angeles, CA
|
Posted 29 Aug 2022 10:05 am
|
|
You can check the fuse with a volt-ohm meter -- on the "resistance" or ohms setting, it should show very low resistance (less than an ohm) -- if it shows very high or infinity ohms, it's no good. Replacing it would be good, although if there was a problem that blew it, it will just blow again -- but then you know you have a hard issue. It would be good to have a couple extra fuses around. Some fuses fail due to age, by the way. _________________ Guacamole Mafia - acoustic harmony duo
Electrical engineer / amp tech in West Los Angeles -- I fix Peaveys
"Now there is a snappy sounding instrument. That f****r really sings." - Jerry Garcia |
|
|
|
Chris Brooks
From: Providence, Rhode Island
|
Posted 24 Sep 2022 3:14 am
|
|
Post operation report:
Turns out my power cable was bad! My techie said that was weird.
So I now have a new power cable; a new presence pot; and I have found a good, prompt, communicative electronics guy.
Anybody else ever have a power cable go out? |
|
|
|