Recovering loafer pad

Chris Tarrow · From: Maplewood, NJ

Time has come to recover my loafer pad. John Widgren just about kicked me out of his house when I showed up with a rip in it covered with duct tape.

My understanding is that it's tolex, but some people use leather? I sweat a lot so something less sticky would be great. Can anyone advise on what they've used and where to get it?

This is for an Emmons Legrande II SD-10. It looks like I just unscrew it from underneath the guitar, but please tell me if I'm missing something.

I should add, I'd be happy to buy one if anyone is selling.

Thanks in advance!

Jerry Van Hoose · From: Wears Valley, Tennessee

Hello Chris, I contacted forum member Leigh Pollari and she made a new pad for me…wooden base, padding & covering with “Sho~Bud” embroidered on it. I’m sure she could do other names, logos and sizes as well. I sent her the measurements…length, width & thickness and the new one was an exact fit.

Per Berner · From: Skovde, Sweden

Leather is the way to go. Softer, less sweaty, classier looking and not that much more money. A ten minute job with a stapler if the foam is intact.

Jerry Van Hoose · From: Wears Valley, Tennessee

I’ve seen pad coverings folded over and secured on the ends, similar to a wrapped package and there’s nothing wrong with that style. However, Leigh folds and staples her pads like a professional upholsterer, no visual folds or wrinkles.

Chris Tarrow · From: Maplewood, NJ

Thanks Jerry that looks super sharp!

Chris Tarrow · From: Maplewood, NJ

Thanks Per, that’s what I was thinking. Can probably get something on eBay.

Per Berner · From: Skovde, Sweden

...perhaps better to visit a well-stocked craft shop, to be able to hold the piece you are about to buy in your hand. Hard to judge stiffness and feel from a picture.

For my Zum, I found a piece of ultra-soft, thin calf leather that made a big improvement. The piece was big enough to cover my steel seat as well, it cost me the equivalent of 60 dollars, but that was ten years ago. Worth every penny.

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

I have made pads for my guitars. I have found a use for that No Used section of the pad, Beside the Key Head or keyless tuner has a lot of possibilities. Makes a nice place place to lay Bar, Picks and and Tuning Winches. A Drink Holder or Ash Tray has possibilities on a Single Neck built on a Double body too.

These pads have a base of 3/4" X 1 1/4" Poplar board, It has a bracket that holds a tuner on the changer end also.
Pads actually hand sewed down the back and has Industrial Velcro to attach to guitars.
Pad has to be removed and placed in Pedal bar/Leg section of the case.

The MSA pad actually held my Steel Bar and Plastic Do-Bro Bar end to end, Lay 1 bar down pick up the other.

Doug Palmer · From: Greensboro, North Carolina, USA

I go to Hobby Lobby. Lots to pick from. I have Faux Alligator on my ST-10.
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Emmons D-10, ST-10,LD-10 III, NV-112,Fender Deluxe Reverb. Authorized wholesale dealer musicorp.com!

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Perfect round corners per JVH's Sho-Bud are a labor of love. Kudos to Leigh. Great looking pads.

I had the task of building the last few Derby pads for Charlie Stepp. If you look at Jerry's and any original Derbys, you'll see there are no folded over or hospital corners on those as I'm sure Jerry will confirm.

There's a trick to doing pads that look professional. It's labor intensive, involves a certain method and lots and lots of stapling, staple pulling, re-stapling and trimming to make a good tight pad that fits the deck snugly as Charlie showed me.

Charlie used vinyl, not Tolex....too rough on the skin. I might still have some of the 1/4 in. boards, foam and vinyl...I'm out of the building business though.

Nothing says you have to go to all that trouble though. Long as it serves the purpose.

If you are going to use leather, I suggest garment leather...it's softest and easiest to form for a good tight fit.

Jerry Van Hoose · From: Wears Valley, Tennessee

I can certainly attest to the excellent quality of Charlie’s, then Jerry O’s pads on all SD-10 Derby Steels. There weren’t any visible folds, looked “form fitted”. Every detail matters.

Chris Tarrow · From: Maplewood, NJ

In the end i went with marine vinyl from JoAnn Fabrics, $12.50 for half a yard. My corners are far from perfect but pretty happy with how it turned out. Decided to try something other than black:

Johnie King · From: Tennessee, USA

Wrist rest::::: the rest is flat 3/8 thick maple covered with firm thin foam. Covered in black tolex. No puffy pad for me. I like too put fine China on my pad for dinner.

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Andy DePaule · From: Saigon, Viet Nam & Springfield, Oregon

Mine is now leather. I replaced the imitation leather with the real thing.
I also padded it higher to help support my right hand.
Over time it has stretched a little and developed some wrinkles, but it feels great. Very Happy

I sure do like the Bobby has added a place for the picks, bar and tuning wrench.
Think I may do something like that in the future. Maybe the electronic tuner also?
Click the link to see the steel when it was new in 2006. I keep this one in Saigon.
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Inlaid Star Guitar 2006 by Mark Giles. SD-10 4+5 in E9th; http://luthiersupply.com/instrument-gallery.html
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project.

Chris Tarrow · From: Maplewood, NJ

that looks great and I want that guitar!!!

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