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Post new topic Adding a lever or pull.
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Author Topic:  Adding a lever or pull.
Bill Duncan


From:
Lenoir, North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 20 Jul 2022 8:28 am    
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Changing a pull or adding a pedal or lever is a 30 minute job that usually takes four or five hours. ...Seems like anyway. There is always one more thing to redo, and need to turn it over one more time.
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Ricky Davis


From:
Bertram, Texas USA
Post  Posted 20 Jul 2022 10:13 am    
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Those are the EXACT words of my "Sho~Bud restoration/refurbish/set-up LIFE"...ha....there always something: "now what in the world is that and why is it doing this"..ha...
Ricky
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Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com
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Eric Dahlhoff


From:
Point Arena, California
Post  Posted 20 Jul 2022 12:58 pm    
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So true... sooooo true!! Laughing
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Ricky Davis


From:
Bertram, Texas USA
Post  Posted 20 Jul 2022 1:24 pm    
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Sorry another example...ha..:
When my customers ask how long will it take to do my job on their Steel? I usually reply: "Well it takes me 30 minutes to take the whole Steel guitar apart; but 3 months to put it back together"....ah...ha...
Ricky
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Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com
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Bobby D. Jones

 

From:
West Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 20 Jul 2022 8:40 pm    
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Sounds like me changing keys on a MSA S10 Classic.

I ordered a new set of Grover tuners the packages had no size on them. This looked simple, Remove the small lock screw, Remove the sleeve with wrench replace key. 2 minutes per key, 10 keys 30 minutes a PUD JOB. With a break, When changing strings.

Removed a key, New one would not fit in hole, Measured key housing shaft. Grover had changed their measurements From Yankee to Metric System for World Market.

I had to remove the key head bars, Set up in drill press and drill all 10 holes from 3/8" with 25/64" drill for the 10 mm keys to fit.

Then I went to put in the a lock screw. The screws MSA had used were hardened self tapping screws. The head of the screws was to large to clear the gear housing on the new keys. Chucked the screw in a lathe, Went to cut the head down with lathe tool, Broke edge on cutter. Ended up turning the screws in the lathe and grinding the heads down with a Dremel Tool and grinding stone.

What seemed like a 1 evening job turned into a 5 evening job, To change the keys and restring that old MSA.
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Roger Andrusky

 

From:
Waterford, PA, USA
Post  Posted 21 Jul 2022 2:41 am     1976 Msa D10 Pedal Location Question
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I have an MSA D10 that I have played for almost 5 decades. I have always felt like the A pedal was too far to the left of where my left knee has to be positioned to make rocking onto A comfortable, no matter what height I set the A/B pedals. I would like to either move the left knee one position to the left to make more room to move my foot or move the A pedal to the right one position. Is there any instructions on how to do this anywhere? To pack it up and send to MSA would be a pain and I'd be out of commission for weeks, I'm sure. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Paul Wade


From:
mundelein,ill
Post  Posted 21 Jul 2022 5:10 am     msa d-10
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roger,
get a hold of darvin willhoite he knows his stuff on msa guitars
https://www.facebook.com/darvin.willhoite
he is on the fourm he can walk you thru it...

paul wade
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 21 Jul 2022 5:25 am    
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Most setup jobs or lever/pedal adding that cross my bench involve multiple moves. In the spirit of "everything affects everything", I always put the guitar in the cradle and spend a considerable amount of time looking at it, thinking about it, reviewing my notes on the project, walking away from it, coming back and doing more contemplating, taking pictures -- all before I loosen the first screw, remove the first rod.
Once I'm ready to actually start (I have no idea what tells me it's time....) it sort of becomes a blur of activity and a lot gets done pretty quickly.

In a perfect world it would be done and done. But of course there was that one screw that was stripped out or the spring or ring that shot under the bench and disappeared.....

But I now consider the mental preparation to be an essential part of my process.
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Bill Duncan


From:
Lenoir, North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 21 Jul 2022 7:46 am    
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Jon Light wrote:

In a perfect world it would be done and done. But of course there was that one screw that was stripped out or the spring or ring that shot under the bench and disappeared.....

But I now consider the mental preparation to be an essential part of my process.


I usually think about it, Look at it. Dread it. Look some more. Put it off. Then finally do it.
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Roger Andrusky

 

From:
Waterford, PA, USA
Post  Posted 21 Jul 2022 9:24 am    
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Ok. This sounds like something I DON'T want to tackle.
How you know where on the shafts to lock the pulls is apparently some magic I don't have. I'd rather figure out some complex electronic circuit than this! I know I'll mess it up then REALLY have nothing to play! Thank you all for replying and saving my musical life!
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Roger Rettig


From:
Naples, FL
Post  Posted 21 Jul 2022 9:36 am    
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I've had three weeks, on and off, going through this very thing.

First, it's a bell-crank that hasn't been moved in twenty years. Ergo: a theoretical 2 minute job consumed 45 minutes.

I learned from Russ Wever on Tuesday (he came to visit me) to remove the rod-and-bell-crank, then remove/refit the E-clip - it's miles easier!

As for stray components, I have to thank my wife for suggesting that, before I flip the guitar right-side-up again, I lay a white towel on the floor first.

It was like a treasure-trove!
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 21 Jul 2022 10:55 am    
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Roger Rettig wrote:
..... before I flip the guitar right-side-up again, I lay a white towel on the floor first.

It was like a treasure-trove!


You see that thing over there on the towel that landed with a thud? That's the changer. You probably want to hang on to that.
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Roger Rettig


From:
Naples, FL
Post  Posted 21 Jul 2022 10:56 am    
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Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy
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