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Topic: Cutting Down the Size of a Cab? |
Karl Paulsen
From:
Chicago
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Posted 3 Jan 2022 12:32 pm |
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Anyone done this?
Tomorrow I'm picking up a Jazz Classic cab that I'm planning to drop my Reno into. If it all works well, I'm considering chopping down my existing Reno cab either to just be a speaker cab or possibly a cab with a small port for a micro amp. Could just use it as-is, but being made to accommodate a horn, the cab is significantly taller than it needs to be.
Any advice on how best to go about this would be appreciated. Stuff like...
1) Should I be shortening from the top or bottom?
2) Tips for preserving the existing tolex.
3) Reinforcing the new Joint.
etc,etc...
_________________
Nickel and Steel. Sad Songs and Steel Guitar.
https://www.facebook.com/NickelandSteel
Chicago Valley Railroad. Trainspotting and Bargain Hunting...
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/ |
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Bill A. Moore
From:
Silver City, New Mexico, USA
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Posted 4 Jan 2022 8:14 am
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| Karl, I repurposed a Peavey Bandit cab into a speaker cab, and it went pretty well. My original intention was to cut the tolex in the top middle, and peel back enough to cut the opening out off the cab. Problem was the top of the cab was notched, and there wasn't enough tolex to properly cover it. My solution was to cut the tolex Fender style, and then cover the top with another piece, (I used a piece of "blonde" on the top), came out looking pretty good! |
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Ian Worley
From:
Sacramento, CA
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Posted 4 Jan 2022 11:22 am
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I've done this sort of thing before on Fender and other cabs. You'll want to shorten from the bottom. I don't know where the tolex seams are on a Peavey but I believe they're on the bottom only (on Fenders they're usually on both the top and bottom with folded seams). After you remove all the hardware, baffle and any staples, peel the tolex back from the bottom of the cabinet using some prudently applied lacquer thinner to soften the contact cement as you go. Obviously, do this outside for ventilation, proper patience will yield a clean result. Just peel enough to provide the necessary working space to make the cuts in the box, roll up the excess and tape it down out of the way.
You can cut the cabinet to length with just a skilsaw or even a hand saw. Clamp or screw a temp straight edge if you're not confident with making a straight cut. Cut the sides to be the overall length you want, cut back any internal bracing, edge supports etc. as required. Re-fit the bottom in the new location, between the sides.
You can use 1/4" woodworker's dowels from the hardware store to reinforce the joints. Dry fit the bottom and put a couple of small screws on each side to hold it in place temporarily, drill some 1/4" holes through the side and into the bottom for the dowels, 5 or so dowels each side is probably sufficient. Disassemble and add some good wood glue to all the mating surfaces, in the dowel holes, etc. Tap the dowels in so the edge of chamfered ends are flush with the sides. If you have bar clamps use them to hold the joints tight until the glue sets, otherwise you can just use the small temp screws again. Best to avoid using any permanent screws or nails in the joint if possible but if you do just make sure they're set deep enough that you won't hit them with the router when you shape the edge. Remove the temp screws and use a 3/8" round-over router to reshape the edge, fill any gaps and screw holes etc. with hard drying wood putty, sand and remove any dust etc. Use contact cement to re-attach the tolex. You need to pre-plan the order you re-attach and cut the tolex, just match whatever was there originally. There are lots of youtube how-tos on this if you haven't done it before. Brush-on contact cement is best for something like this, less messy.
Hope this is helpful, good luck!
_________________
All lies and jest, still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest - Paul Simon
Last edited by Ian Worley on 4 Jan 2022 11:23 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Bobby Burns
From:
Tennessee, USA
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Posted 4 Jan 2022 11:23 am Shortening a cabinet
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| First, cut the tolex on the bottom just short of the corners. Then peel back the Toltec on the sides just past the length you want the side to be. Next cut the sides of the cabinet to length. Now cut the bottom, tolex and all, to fit inside of the sides. Glue the sides to the bottom, screws, dowels or whatever method of reinforcement you choose. Round the corners to match the rest of the cabinet. Pull the tolex back around the corners, and trim so that it just overlaps the joint on the bottom. Glue tolex. You can paint the raw edge of the seam if necessary, and no one will ever look twice. |
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Karl Paulsen
From:
Chicago
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Posted 4 Jan 2022 12:36 pm
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Thanks for all the advice folks. This seems like an entirely do-able project, though I might wait 'til spring when I can tackle it in the garage in warm weather.
Much Appreciated!
_________________
Nickel and Steel. Sad Songs and Steel Guitar.
https://www.facebook.com/NickelandSteel
Chicago Valley Railroad. Trainspotting and Bargain Hunting...
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/ |
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Bobby Burns
From:
Tennessee, USA
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Posted 4 Jan 2022 1:07 pm Shortening a cabinet
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| Oh yes. Any time your dealing with wood, glue, or tolex, it helps if it’s warm. Whatever the temperature, I’d warm it up with a heat gun or hairdryer before starting. The tolex gets more flexible, doesn’t rip as easy and the glue loosens up better if it’s a little warm. When you glue it back down you want it flexible, but not hot enough that you stretch it. You don’t want it to shrink back after you’ve glued it and it shrink |
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Ian Worley
From:
Sacramento, CA
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Posted 4 Jan 2022 1:45 pm Re: Shortening a cabinet
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| Bobby Burns wrote: |
| ...When you glue it back down you want it flexible, but not hot enough that you stretch it. You don’t want it to shrink back after you’ve glued it and it shrink |
This is good advice, and also applies to lacquer thinner and contact cement, which will soften the backing and allow the fabric to stretch. A hard rubber roller is very useful to get the Tolex to lay flat as you reinstall it without stretching it.
_________________
All lies and jest, still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest - Paul Simon |
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Karl Paulsen
From:
Chicago
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Ian Worley
From:
Sacramento, CA
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Posted 4 Jan 2022 3:39 pm
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| Karl Paulsen wrote: |
| How important is it to get the old adhesive off the wood and tolex before applying the contact cement? |
It doesn't matter that much as long as both the box and the back of the tolex are reasonably flat. It doesn't have to be perfect but if there are noticeable lumps on either surface from the old glue you'll want to get those off as much as possible. Lacquer thinner can help sometimes. Even though the tolex is relatively thick material, little imperfections can definitely telegraph through. The new adhesive will melt and bond with the old so there's usually not a concern as far as adhesion goes.
_________________
All lies and jest, still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest - Paul Simon |
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Ken Fox
From:
Nashville GA USA
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Posted 5 Jan 2022 10:00 am
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| The old glue is animal hide glue. Water soluble. Use a big sponge and warm water. Saturate it a couple of time and comes off easily with a wide scraper. |
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Jim Pitman
From:
Waterbury Ctr. VT 05677 USA
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Posted 11 Jan 2022 2:33 pm
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A consideration. different size cabinets affect the tone even when the electronics are the same.
Case in point - Session original 400 vs the original LTD. |
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Karl Paulsen
From:
Chicago
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Posted 12 Jan 2022 8:42 pm
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| Ken Fox wrote: |
| The old glue is animal hide glue. Water soluble. Use a big sponge and warm water. Saturate it a couple of time and comes off easily with a wide scraper. |
Good to know about the glue. If it's hide glue can I just apply some steam and use what's there?
_________________
Nickel and Steel. Sad Songs and Steel Guitar.
https://www.facebook.com/NickelandSteel
Chicago Valley Railroad. Trainspotting and Bargain Hunting...
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/ |
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Karl Paulsen
From:
Chicago
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Posted 12 Jan 2022 8:46 pm
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| Jim Pitman wrote: |
A consideration. different size cabinets affect the tone even when the electronics are the same.
Case in point - Session original 400 vs the original LTD. |
That's a good point. Maybe I should fill the gap and play it in it's big configuration first before cutting the size down. There are worse things than a big 15" cab right?
_________________
Nickel and Steel. Sad Songs and Steel Guitar.
https://www.facebook.com/NickelandSteel
Chicago Valley Railroad. Trainspotting and Bargain Hunting...
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/ |
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