Flip Brown
From: Vermont, USA
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Posted 25 Oct 2021 3:24 pm
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Hello fellow steelers - I've been having a heck of a time adjusting my Sierra Artist so that the right knee lever moves the 2nd string from D# to D to C#. After every seemingly conceivable combination of bell crank and changer positions, and adjusting the two set screws that create the stops, the only way I can get the necessary travel is to completely remove the eccentric cam, which means the knee lever moves about half a mile - so that the tip of the lever is almost parallel with the edge of the end plate.
What I am missing here? Happy to send pics if that will help.
Thanks - this is such a helpful (and humorous!) community. _________________ MSA Millennium SD-10 #22, Fender Steel King with Eminence EPS-15C speaker, Lehle Mono 90 Volume Pedal, Sarno Black Box, Baby Bloomer, Sarno Earth Drive, EHX Mel 9, EHX Small Stone, Mooer Chorus, Keeley Caverns, Clinesmith bar, Acri picks, Nioma lap steel, Regal resonator, and a whole bunch of other instruments. |
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Jim Palenscar
From: Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 25 Oct 2021 8:45 pm
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In general, use the hole(s) in the changer that are furthest from the axle and cross shaft for both the changer and bellcrank positions. The set screw at the tip of the reversing crank should be adjusted so that the free play before engaging is about 1/16" and the setscrew closest to the the cross shaft is used to time the in between note- D#-D. For the best results, try to time the 9th string lower to start to engage when the 2nd string hits the D note by varying the pullrod position on the bellcrank of the 9th string. If you are able to get that worked out, you can then increase the pressure/feel by tightening the return spring on the 9th string. |
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