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Topic: C6 for acoustic question again .. |
Chris Tulloch
From:
United Kingdom
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Posted 15 May 2021 11:59 am |
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I’ve just finished converting my old Hohner 12-string to a six-string lap guitar, and it’s strung up with 58w, 46w, 36w, 28w, 17, 14. At the moment it’s tuned a semi-tone below Open G just to see if there’s any creaks, growls or otherwise to let me know if the guitar’s collapsing. Actually not! It sounds and plays beautifully.
However, having just built my first lap-steel and really loving C6 I would love to have this acoustic tuned someway to mirror the CEGACE interval.
Someone previously on this site mentioned tuning acoustics to C6 using 44-34-28-24-18-16 for C6, and another mentioned 36-32-26-23-18-16
This is for “Câ€6 … but actually its just the intervals I need …
My question: can I use ANY of my existing strings and change just three of them, so it can be tuned to any matching 6th? I’m learning & practising at home so it doesn’t matter if I’m not in concert, but I’d like to have that same wonderful ‘major / relative minor’ arrangement that C6 gives me.
Many thanks |
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D Schubert
From:
Columbia, MO, USA
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Posted 16 May 2021 5:20 am
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G6 and A6 are good alternatives, may even have a little more oomph than C6 on an acoustic guitar. Being lazy, I'll tune my Dobro down from G to G6 by lowering the high strings, just for the afternoon.
Last edited by D Schubert on 16 May 2021 8:10 am; edited 1 time in total |
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K Maul
From:
Hadley, NY/Hobe Sound, FL
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Posted 16 May 2021 5:29 am
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Seems to me that 36-32-26-23-18-16 would work on an acoustic without fear of warping the neck or pulling up the top. 12 strings usually are built tougher, anyway. I’d change the top two gauges to 14 and 16 just be be safe.
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Chris Tulloch
From:
United Kingdom
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Posted 16 May 2021 6:09 am
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| D Schubert wrote: |
| G6 and A6 are good alternatives, may even have a little more oomph than C6 on an acoustic guitar. Being lazy, I'll tune my Dobro down from G to G6 by lowering the high strings, just the afternoon. |
Thanks for this, useful to know for in the future - however, being mainly a mandolin-player + tinkling keyboards & writing songs on guitar & mando - I feel that ONE (haha!) extra instrument & tuning is enough to go on with  ... C-E-G-A-C-E is one I am slowly getting to grips with on my lap-steel & enjoying, and if I can achieve that relationship on my converted acoustic that will be perfect.
Thanks for your help! |
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Chris Tulloch
From:
United Kingdom
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Posted 16 May 2021 6:36 am
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| K Maul wrote: |
| Seems to me that 36-32-26-23-18-16 would work on an acoustic without fear of warping the neck or pulling up the top. 12 strings usually are built tougher, anyway. I’d change the top two gauges to 14 and 16 just be be safe. |
Thanks for this. I've been shuffling round strings all day! I've just tuned what is, at present, the "4th string" (which is a 36) to C and yes, the tension seems about right - a fraction slack compared to the 20.5 scale lap-steel, but OK. Usable!
Thanks - I'll give these gauges a try, and go with your suggestion of a 14 and a 16. |
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Chris Tulloch
From:
United Kingdom
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Posted 20 May 2021 12:59 am
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| K Maul wrote: |
| Seems to me that 36-32-26-23-18-16 would work on an acoustic without fear of warping the neck or pulling up the top. 12 strings usually are built tougher, anyway. I’d change the top two gauges to 14 and 16 just be be safe. |
Just to update; Guitar tuned up to A6 satisfactorily. 36w, 32w, 26w, 22w, 16, 14 strings are just right - a 22w feeling better than a plain 22.
However the tension was a tad tight! The guitar sounded wonderful but felt slightly happier tuned down to Ab6 (G6 was too low & rattly). Last night I ended up detuning the poor thing until I've made my own Bridge Doctor which may or may not be needed but will give me peace of mind.
This old 12-string guitar is inherently quite robust, but tuned up to the full A6 it feels about as tight as a 25.5" acoustic standard tuning with 13s.
Thanks K Maul & D Schubert |
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Paul Seager
From:
Augsburg, Germany
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Posted 20 May 2021 4:47 am
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I have an old Hopf acoustic (warped neck) mainly tuned to open A and the gauges currently are 42, 38, 32, 22, 18, 15. I use Pyramid acoustic strings which are available in Germany individually. I arrived at these gauges as a compromise between learning Hawaiian stuff in open A and bluegrass in open G as this set seems to support both quite well.
The strings do feel tight, possibly a little tighter than I am used to on my electrics (all A6) but I can still bend behind the bar between third and 12 frets without too much strain on my fingers (and I don't do that too often anyway!)
I have a much detested Washburn Traveller and I've strung that to C6 using a dedicated set bought through the Forum shop. These days its tuned either A or G but the instrument didn't seem to mind C6! So I guess as long as the gauges are approriate most instruments can take a higher tuning.
As you have a large body instrument I would think that C6 would be a waste of that bass potential which I find is what really makes an acoustic steel come alive - but then I have not yet tried a resonator. Anyway, have fun and keep experimenting!
\paul |
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Chris Tulloch
From:
United Kingdom
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Posted 20 May 2021 12:56 pm
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| Paul Seager wrote: |
I have an old Hopf acoustic (warped neck) mainly tuned to open A and the gauges currently are 42, 38, 32, 22, 18, 15. I use Pyramid acoustic strings which are available in Germany individually. I arrived at these gauges as a compromise between learning Hawaiian stuff in open A and bluegrass in open G as this set seems to support both quite well.
The strings do feel tight, possibly a little tighter than I am used to on my electrics (all A6) but I can still bend behind the bar between third and 12 frets without too much strain on my fingers (and I don't do that too often anyway!)
I have a much detested Washburn Traveller and I've strung that to C6 using a dedicated set bought through the Forum shop. These days its tuned either A or G but the instrument didn't seem to mind C6! So I guess as long as the gauges are approriate most instruments can take a higher tuning.
As you have a large body instrument I would think that C6 would be a waste of that bass potential which I find is what really makes an acoustic steel come alive - but then I have not yet tried a resonator. Anyway, have fun and keep experimenting!
\paul |
Interesting insights, thanks Paul! My re-tuning is an experiment "in progress" so thanks for your views. Actually the whole thing is an experiment, as it wasn't until I built my lap-steel during lockdown early this year that I'd ever tried to play one! |
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Rob DiStefano
From:
New Jersey, USA
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Posted 24 May 2021 3:26 pm
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It all comes down to scale length as a governor of sorts for string gauges to be used, when string tension is important to the player. The longer the scale, the greater the tension.
In electric guitar terms (standard tuning of EADGBE), if the string tension of a Strat or Tele (25.5" long scale) with .046 to .010 feels good, then typically a Les Paul or SG (24.75" medium scale) will feel about the same with .049 to .011 strings, and a Jaguar or Mustang (24" short scale) might actually require .052 to .012 strings. All depends on the player's requirements.
The shorter the scale, the larger the string gauge is required to maintain a specific playing tension that the operator prefers, guitarist or steeler.
I have a 23" scale lap steel in C6 (CEGACE) that I prefer loaded with .036 to .015 strings, but to use those strings to tune slack key down to openD (DADF#AD) makes taught strings into cooked noodles. Even changing to .056 to .016 strings is still too loose a string tension (for me) and why I'm building a few 25.5" scale lap steels. |
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Tim Whitlock
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 25 May 2021 8:45 am
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| I too tried to transition from lap steel to acoustic steel using my familiar C6. I had bought a decent tri-cone but C6 was just too thin sounding. I'm sure this is why you don't find may acoustic players using C6 and preferring a G or A based tuning. |
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