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David DeLoach


From:
Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 10 Feb 2021 4:13 am    
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Howdy.

I'm hoping to buy my first pedal steel this year. Probably a S10 (although I'd love a D10 if I have the budget).

I've played 8 string lap steel pretty seriously for a few years now and would like to give a shot at pedal steel.

Probably a dumb question, but if I were to use my own tuning (not C6 or E9) how flexible are the pedal and knee lever assignments as to how high/low they go and which strings they impact? Is that set up during the build and permanent, or can pedal and knee lever string assignments/functionality be changed?

Thanks for any input!

David
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 10 Feb 2021 5:16 am    
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Any pro guitar can assign any pedal and any lever to any string, multiple times. How much a string can be raised or lowered depends on the brand of guitar, on the gauge of the string and on whether the string is plain or wound. It is definitely not infinite. Raises and lowers are limited by the physics of the leverage of the pulling mechanism. In addition, raises are limited by the physical breaking point of the string.
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K Maul


From:
Hadley, NY/Hobe Sound, FL
Post  Posted 10 Feb 2021 5:24 am    
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It can be set up almost any way you want, given the physical limitations mentioned above. Go to the LINKS tab on the top the page and look at the varied copedents listed there. You’ll see many variations on E9, E7, C6, B6, Bb6 Etc.
If you search through the Forum you’ll encounter endless discussions about the multitude of variations pedal steel is capable of. There’s lots of room for individuality in the design.
Good luck with your endeavor. You’ll see that there have been many attempts to re-invent the wheel.
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Ake Banksell


From:
Stockholm, Sweden
Post  Posted 10 Feb 2021 5:28 am    
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K Maul wrote:
It can be set up almost any way you want, given the physical limitations mentioned above. Go to the LINKS tab on the top the page and look at the varied copedents listed there. You’ll see many variations on E9, E7, C6, B6, Bb6 Etc.
If you search through the Forum you’ll encounter endless discussions about the multitude of variations pedal steel is capable of. There’s lots of room for individuality in the design.
Good luck with your endeavor. You’ll see that there have been many attempts to re-invent the wheel.

Laughing Laughing Laughing
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 10 Feb 2021 5:37 am    
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Amplifying the point about reinventing the wheel -- it is easy and not uncommon to study a tuning and believe that one can devise something that better suits them and I have no problem at all with that. But it is also not uncommon that this belief comes from not having a practical understanding of existing tunings (as in actually playing the thing as opposed to studying on it, on paper). The existing tunings are not necessarily the be-all & end-all of human knowledge but....they have evolved into powerful systems.
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Larry Bressington

 

From:
Nebraska
Post  Posted 10 Feb 2021 6:02 am    
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I think this, most steels can lower or raise at least a whole tone, some tri-tone, limiting factor maybe the string itself. I'd have to go with a steel that has easily removable bell cranks such as the mullen and others of newer crop steels, that way you can tinker all day without the headaches of extensive work to change your co-ped.

I think every player should fulfill his/her curiosity with tuning and set-up idea's, one must exhaust those thoughts and expressions, if it dosen't work you can always pursue a standardized set up, this is where the ease of bell crank removal comes into play.

It is hard to reinvent the wheel, but you never know you might reinvent the steel.
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K Maul


From:
Hadley, NY/Hobe Sound, FL
Post  Posted 10 Feb 2021 8:56 am    
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I’m sure many here are curious about what your proposed tuning would be. There are plenty of people here willing to help you accomplish your goals and provide excellent technical, theoretical and mechanical advice. The idea to get a steel that is easily changed around is an excellent one. I’d have to add Fender to that list. Although many would consider them antiquated and incapable of modern tuning applications, I am a fan and have owned several. Perhaps their greatest advantage is that their setups are really easy to change quickly so they readily lend themselves to experimentation.
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Dennis Montgomery


From:
Western Washington
Post  Posted 10 Feb 2021 10:09 am    
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Larry Bressington wrote:


I think every player should fulfill his/her curiosity with tuning and set-up idea's, one must exhaust those thoughts and expressions, if it dosen't work you can always pursue a standardized set up, this is where the ease of bell crank removal comes into play.


Agreed. Experimenting with different copedents is one approach to learning. Time consuming and often very frustrating, but a great way to learn about both the mechanical properties of your pedal steel and what does or doesn't work with various tuning approaches.

I spent the first few months with my Mullen SD12 trying different copedent ideas. I chose a Mullen for many reasons, but a big one was because they're super easy to work on and experiment with different copedents. Anyway, I was convinced playing 70's progressive rock/late 60's Beatles influenced music on E9 just wasn't possible. Well, after those first few months of experimentation guess where I ended up? Emmons E9 Laughing

Nowadays, I keep the core of Emmons E9 (technically D9 as I downtune a step) on my ABC pedals and E, F, Vertical & D (with string 2 half stop) knees. Outside of that, I put my specialized changes on pedals 4 through 7 and one knee lever.

If I could visit myself back in 2018 when my Mullen arrived, I'd tell myself to go straight to Emmons E9 and skip all the copedent experimentation. But I know I wouldn't have listened Winking
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Dave Stroud

 

From:
Texas
Post  Posted 11 Feb 2021 8:27 am    
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I'll reinforce what others have said. String changes are not permanent (possible exception being the carter starter), but they're also not something you'll want to change daily. A lot of tuning changes can take several hours.

Others can feel free to correct me, but as a rule of thumb you probably wouldn't want to move more than 3 or 4 strings at a time on a single pedal or lever. More than that starts getting heavy.

To be more specific about the physical limitations of your steel - for raising a string, the upper limit is probably 3 half-steps (maybe 4). For lowering a string, you could go more since you don't risk breaking the string.
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Bobby D. Jones

 

From:
West Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 11 Feb 2021 11:20 am    
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Welcome to the world of The Pedal Steel Guitar.
Many previous posts have a lot of great information.
From your post you will need to pick a guitar very carefully.
I suggest you look at the underside of guitars you are considering.
You will want a guitar with square cross rods that are easy to add and remove, If you want to move pulls.
1 screw removal and replacement of bell cranks.
You may want to consider only guitars of builders which are still in production and parts are easy to order and obtain.
You may want to consider a guitar with split tuning, If you want multiple lowers on certain strings.

Good Luck in your journey to play Pedal Steel Guitar.
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Mike Perlowin


From:
Los Angeles CA
Post  Posted 15 Feb 2021 11:29 am    
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Since you're new to this, you want to start off with a basic instrument to learn on. Now, I have never played either a Stage One or it's big bother, the Encore, and cannot speak from personal experience, But they both have an excellent reputation.

It has been suggested that you want a guitar on which the setup can easily be changed. I basically agree with that, but as a new player, you needn't concern yourself with that. For now, you have a boatload of information you need to learn, and a couple of years of woodshedding before you should start thinking about it.

The Stage One has a fixed copedant, which means you can;t change it. The Encore has a different system, that allows you to change stuff around. Eventually, you will want this, and you might consider getting an Encore with an eye toward that day.

But for now, and for the next 2 or 3 years at least, this is not something you should think about. EVERYBODY without exception who uses a Stage One raves about it. Apparently it's far more than a student guitar, and will be good enough to use in gigs, when you get them.
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Mike Vallandigham

 

From:
Martinez, CA
Post  Posted 15 Feb 2021 5:45 pm    
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Here's my advice. Buy the best used guitar you can afford. And Buy a D-10 (or a uni if you're into that).

I enjoy C6 more then E9, and if you buy used, you won't lose much more than a few hundy if you have to sell.

Have fun!
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Mike Vallandigham

 

From:
Martinez, CA
Post  Posted 15 Feb 2021 5:46 pm    
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Here's my advice. Buy the best used guitar you can afford. And Buy a D-10 (or a uni I you'r into that).

I enjoy C6 more then E9, and if you buy used, you won't lose much more than a few hundy if you have to sell.

Have fun!
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Richard Alderson


From:
Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 15 Feb 2021 10:42 pm    
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Dear David - You ask a very interesting question. 98 and nine tenths percent of the guitars cannot be just changed on a whim; They can be changed in an hour or two, or a day or two, or a week or two, and some not at all (Encore, and Stage One). There is one exception that I know of - the Fender cable steels; The pedal arrangement can be changed in 10 minutes on those old dinosaurs; but they have a limited amount of changes compared to more modern steels.

How about your music style however? What do like to play? What do you admire? What tuning have you been using on the 8 string lap steel?

E9th is the "standard" country tuning, and about 80% of instructional material is for E9th; The rest is for C6th, and then there's some Sacred Steel tunings as well.

If you are a genius and you can invent your own tunings and pedal set ups, and then play them flawlessly with your hands, your feet, and your knees, then the sky is the limit. But getting back to your original question, you are not going to be able to change the set up everyday when you get a new idea, 'cause re-rodding a guitar is PD complicated. Otherwise you need to pick one of the main variants, E9 or C6th, and there are some standard pedal set ups that have already been discovered and invented.

To re-invent the wheel takes a genius. Most folks start out with the E9th neck or the c6th neck, they use the standard pedal set ups, and learn the basics and go from there. 12 string guitars have both C6th and E9th possibilities on one guitar. The double necks have one neck for E9th and one neck for C6th;
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Mike Perlowin


From:
Los Angeles CA
Post  Posted 15 Feb 2021 11:10 pm    
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Richard Alderson wrote:
some (can not be changed) at all (Encore, and Stage One).


Unless I'm mistaken, the Stage One can't be changed, but the Encore can. I believe that is the big difference between the two.
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Al Evans


From:
Austin, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 16 Feb 2021 7:07 am     Re: Question about buying my first pedal steel
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David DeLoach wrote:
Howdy.

I'm hoping to buy my first pedal steel this year. Probably a S10 (although I'd love a D10 if I have the budget).


You've already seen plenty of opinions, so here's another one. I've been playing now for about three years. I started when I was 71.

I started with a 1976 MSA D10 Classic I bought off Craigslist. I didn't know anything much about pedal steel, but I knew MSA was a good brand (and less expensive at that time than a used Sho-Bud or Emmons). I could tell it was in working condition, and it was.

After several months, I decided I really DID want to play pedal steel, and bought a really good one. I put the MSA on the bench, and disassembled and cleaned and lubricated and changed several pulls and generally had my way with it. Then it played great.

I sold it, eventually, for more than I paid for it (but not enough to pay for the parts and time I put into it learning to make it work better).

If I had it to do over again, I'd do it the same way.

--Al Evans
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Richard Alderson


From:
Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 16 Feb 2021 12:56 pm    
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Mike Perlowin has corrected me regarding the Encore. Thanks Mike.
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Fred Treece


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 16 Feb 2021 3:02 pm    
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K Maul wrote:
I’m sure many here are curious about what your proposed tuning would be.

Since David did not respond to this comment, I’ll take a guess. Based on his posts in Steel Without Pedals, his preferred tuning appears to be Leavitt. I suppose most E9 or C6 pedal steel copedents could get pretty close to a Leavitt with a couple or three changes engaged, but if that is where you want your starting point, neither of them is it. So some pertinent questions are in order.

-How much work would it be to set up a pedal steel for open Leavitt?
-8 strings or 10? 12 maybe?
-What changes would apply?
—-(Maybe only 3 or 4 changes are even wanted, which greatly simplifies the whole idea)
-How to determine what change goes on a lever and what goes to a pedal?
-String gauges?

Starting to look like reinventing the wheel to me, but this is assuming that a Leavitt-based 3x4 copedent premise is correct. If it’s not, then....never mind 🤓
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Richard Alderson


From:
Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 17 Feb 2021 10:24 am    
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It seems that David is an accomplished professional musician who has been on stage at the Opry a time or two.

So when he says "My own tuning", I think he really means "My own tuning";

The easiest guitar to do that with would be a Fender cable guitar. Especially a 10 string model.

Dear David - If you want a satisfactory pedal steel experience, get the newest single neck E9th guitar you can afford. If you want to experiment with tunings and pedal arrangements both, get an old Fender, there's 8 stringers and 10 stringers to be had every 90 days or so. I disparaged them as dinosaurs, but they do work, and my own Fender is quite beautiful, with a lacquer polish and shiny chrome. Its just heavy as a horse, that's all.
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Mike Perlowin


From:
Los Angeles CA
Post  Posted 17 Feb 2021 11:09 am     Re: Question about buying my first pedal steel
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Al Evans, since you already an MSA Legend and a Mullen G2, perhaps you could part with the Encore and sell it to David.
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Richard Alderson


From:
Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 19 Feb 2021 5:48 am    
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Dear David - I see that you are in Brentwood TN; There is a very knowledgeable pedal steel guitar dealer in nearby La Vergne, Mr. Johnnie King, who has built and rebuilt and invented guitars himself. Why not call or visit Mr. King and run some of your ideas by him and see what he thinks? He could even build you a new one, he has built some of his own models before. In that case you could get the best of all worlds, a relatively inexpensive NEW guitar built to your own tuning.

Mr. King is a great guy and he has pedal steel in his veins he knows so much.
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Al Evans


From:
Austin, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 19 Feb 2021 6:56 am     Re: Question about buying my first pedal steel
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Mike Perlowin wrote:
Al Evans, since you already an MSA Legend and a Mullen G2, perhaps you could part with the Encore and sell it to David.


The three pedal steels I have are all different, and seem to bring out different bits of music and lead to different bits of learning for me. The Encore, which presently runs through a Tech 21 Fly Rig 5 into the Soundcraft board of my shop sound system, is always lots of pure fun to play. The others seem to call forth a more serious attitude on my part.

More than you ever wanted to know.... Very Happy

--Al Evans
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Bob Hoffnar


From:
Austin, Tx
Post  Posted 19 Feb 2021 8:16 am     Re: Question about buying my first pedal steel
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David DeLoach wrote:
Howdy.

Probably a dumb question, but if I were to use my own tuning (not C6 or E9) how flexible are the pedal and knee lever assignments as to how high/low they go and which strings they impact? Is that set up during the build and permanent, or can pedal and knee lever string assignments/functionality be changed?

David


Let's look at your tuning and figure it out. I'll bet your tuning is somewhere inside of a more standard tuning already.
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