New pedal steel player seeking Obi Won Wisdom

Marc Houser · From: Lawrence, Kansas, USA

Hello!

I'm Marc Houser and I'm new to the forum, though I've been lurking unregistered in the shadows for a couple months. After being a lead guitar guy for too many years, I'm now enamored with pedal steel sounds.

I bought my first pedal steel a couple months ago, a heavily modified Sho Bud Crossover. I understand this may be a doozy to learn on and maintain but it was the only guitar for sale in Topeka and at a decent price.
The previous owner has long passed and I'm reworking his mods to get me a standard 3x4 at least on the E9 neck. I have all the pulls actuating the correct strings but I've got some extra play in the action I think I should get rid of but I'm unsure how. Being that this is vintage, modified, and finnicky I was hoping someone familiar with this guitar or similar ones might be willing to Facetime or at least receive some pictures so I can show them what I'm looking at and hopefully they can give me a good talking to about adjustments and profitable investments Laughing

The community here looks awesome and I'm excited to be way too involved haha.
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Long Days and Pleasant Nights, Thankee Sai

Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

Post the pictures here and explain your issues. There are many here that can help.
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Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 54 years and still counting.

Marco Schouten · From: Amsterdam, The Netherlands

I haven't seen the mechanism, but in general, if there is too much play, you should adjust the pedal stops so that the pull rods move less.
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JCH SD-10 with BL XR-16 pickup, Sho-Bud Volume Pedal, Evidence Audio Lyric HG cables, Quilter Steelaire combo

Jack Stoner · From: Kansas City, MO

Chuck Abend lives in Gladstone (KC North) and has worked on and modified many guitars. That's fairly close to Lawrence. I don't have Chuck's phone or e-mail but he's a forum member so PM him.

K Maul · From: Hadley, NY/Hobe Sound, FL

Please post pictures. So...itâ€™s been modified with additional knee levers? The standard Crossover usually had only one.
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KEVIN MAUL: Airline, Beard, Clinesmith, Donner, Evans, Excel, Fender, Fluger, GFI, Gibson, Hilton, Ibanez, Justice, K+K, Live Strings, MOYO, National, Oahu, Peterson, Quilter, Rickenbacher, Sho~Bud, Supro, TC, Ultimate, VHT, Williams, X-otic, Yamaha, ZKing.

Marc Houser · From: Lawrence, Kansas, USA

Thank you so much for the replies and the contact info! Iâ€™ve added some pictures here for clarity and curiosityâ€™s sake. In particular, the two rods shown are my A and B pedals, where the B pedal actuates in that metal hook bracket, thereâ€™s quite a bit more play than there is in the A pedals hook. Iâ€™m not sure what to call that part if it needs to be replaced.

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Long Days and Pleasant Nights, Thankee Sai

Dennis Detweiler · From: Solon, Iowa, US

Pedal stops are those 7 allen wrench screws with square lock nuts hanging in a row below the front apron of the guitar.
If too much play before the pedal or knee makes contact with the pulling action, you likely need to adjust the allen wrench screws up/in/clockwise a little. There should always be a small amount of play to have some distance to tune the string to pitch.
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1976 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics 427 pickup, 1975 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics X-12 pickup, Revelation preamp, Carbon Copy Delay and Hall Of Fame Reverb, Crown XLS 1002, 2- 15" Eminence Wheelhouse speakers, ShoBud Pedal, Effects Pedals. 1949 Epiphone D-8.

Marc Houser · From: Lawrence, Kansas, USA

I donâ€™t think the pedal stops are the issue, but I will definitely concede my naÃ¯vetÃ© in this field. That bracket thatâ€™s almost ear shaped that rotates around the metal post is what looks like it has extra play in it to me. Iâ€™ve adjusted the pedal stops and if I run it too far up I donâ€™t get any pull on the string and if I run it too far down it makes my problem worse. The real issue is my B pedal plays quite a bit downward before it actually starts to pull. I know that U shape for your ABC pedals is common but this is more like a deep V before I get that B to pull all the way. A and C are nice and tight on the pulls and returns. B just moves a ton before actually actuating.
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Long Days and Pleasant Nights, Thankee Sai

Dennis Detweiler · From: Solon, Iowa, US

I bought a Crossover new in 1970. They are heavy cast frame. Nice concept, but was outdated quickly. Downside is the single raise and lower changer, but one rod could be used on multiple pedals by way of the brass tuning barrels and one rod passing through any number of cross shafts. The changer is what makes it difficult to upgrade with a different custom undercarriage. It's a brute. Nickname him Brutus. He's a good project that stands out in a crowd.
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1976 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics 427 pickup, 1975 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics X-12 pickup, Revelation preamp, Carbon Copy Delay and Hall Of Fame Reverb, Crown XLS 1002, 2- 15" Eminence Wheelhouse speakers, ShoBud Pedal, Effects Pedals. 1949 Epiphone D-8.

Dennis Detweiler · From: Solon, Iowa, US

The only way to correct it is to leave it in the case assembled and work the A and B pedal and compare the movement between the two pedals and maybe see where the difference in slack is occurring? Maybe there's some slop in the cross shaft bushings from years of wear? Extra movement.
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1976 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics 427 pickup, 1975 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics X-12 pickup, Revelation preamp, Carbon Copy Delay and Hall Of Fame Reverb, Crown XLS 1002, 2- 15" Eminence Wheelhouse speakers, ShoBud Pedal, Effects Pedals. 1949 Epiphone D-8.

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