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Author Topic:  Best re-rodding order
Derek Blalock

 

From:
Birmingham, Alabama, USA
Post  Posted 25 Jan 2021 2:30 pm    
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My guitar has been disassembled for cleaning. About to re-rod. Start at furthest to closest from changer? Knees or pedals first? Just looking for the most efficient and cleanest way to do it. Any help appreciated!
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Dennis Montgomery


From:
Western Washington
Post  Posted 25 Jan 2021 2:40 pm    
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Can't speak for those that have worked on many different guitars; but on my Mullen, I attach the rods that will sit closest to the body first and work my way out from there Winking
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Chris Sattler

 

From:
Hunter Valley, Australia
Post  Posted 1 Feb 2021 1:30 am    
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I may be too late, you've probably finished the job already but I do recall Mickey Adams saying he starts at string #1 and works out doing each string in turn. On each string I guess he does the rods closest to the underneath of the guitar first, be they pedals or levers.
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Dale Rottacker


From:
Walla Walla Washington, USA
Post  Posted 1 Feb 2021 6:50 am     Re: Best re-rodding order
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Derek Blalock wrote:
My guitar has been disassembled for cleaning. About to re-rod. Start at furthest to closest from changer? Knees or pedals first? Just looking for the most efficient and cleanest way to do it. Any help appreciated!

I did a FULL Re-Rod Once... and had a couple pointers from guys that do it a lot... I was told to start with the raises first, (closest the body and cross-shafts) and with the 1st string... from the shortest rods to the longest rods, (Changer End>Key-head End)... It keeps everything orderly without getting tangled up in previously rodded rods. Good luck.
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Jim Palenscar

 

From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
Post  Posted 1 Feb 2021 8:42 am    
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I start w the raises 1st, giving preference to the pedals and levers that I use the most so that if I have to compromise on timing issues it will be on changes that I don't use quite as much. Then I do the thickest strings as they have less travel than the thinner strings that stretch more and work my way across the neck to the next thickest and get the timing just right- starting at the bellcrank hole/slot closest to the cross shaft and the hole in the changer furthest from the changer axle- allowing for the longest/easiest pull. If you start on the thinner strings chances are you'll have to re-do them to get the timing just right. Keep in mind that there may be other changes on that string that will require a position that necessitate moving the rod that I just put in. Now go to the next thickest string and rod it so that it starts its pull at the same time that the previous one started and so on. Make absolutely sure that you still have free play in the cross shaft/bellcrank to allow it to move a titch prior to activating any changes- in this step you may have to adjust the pedal or lever stop to allow for just the right amount of free play. This insures that the changer finger/scissor returns to the neutral position and you won't have tuning issues down the road (maybe Smile) .
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