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Topic: Rogue RLS-1 Arrival |
Timothy Kelly Sr
From:
Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 24 Apr 2020 11:23 am |
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The Rogue RLS-1 arrived today. After a quick inspection and tightening of strings all seems OK.
The forth string slightly touches the guitar where it enters the tuning channel. This could cause an early scrapping off of paint. This should be remedied when I change out the nut.
I have read that intonation is not required on lap steels. So I am guessing I can turn back the intonation adjusters back until they rest on the back of the bridge vertical tail piece. It will add another 1/2 inch to the overall length. Or remove them altogether. This would give me another inch or more. Unless this will put the guitar out of tune with a different scale length. |
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Brian Evans
From:
Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted 24 Apr 2020 11:39 am
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| not sure why you would change out the nut first thing, but it's probably not the best of material. Plastic, bakelite, bone, tusk, corian, aluminium, steel have all been used happily for steel guitar nuts, of course. The fret board has a scale length and you use it to guide your bar placement. You should put the bridge saddles at exactly twice the measurement from the nut face to the middle of the 12th fret, so that the fret markers are useful. If you don't want to use the fret markers as a guide, then you can put the bridge saddles wherever you want. |
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Nic Neufeld
From:
Kansas City, Missouri
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Posted 24 Apr 2020 11:54 am
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The bridge on the Rogue is there because its a cheap, standard, readily available hardtail...adjustable intonation bridges aren't desirable on a steel guitar, and generally can cause more problems than they solve. Unfortunately if you ram the saddles up back against the bridge, you may throw your fretboard out of tune, so you do want to have your intonation set (hopefully, even straight across) so that the 12th fret position is in tune with 12th fret harmonic. Note, that's less individual string intonation and more just having your overall bridge string termination point in the right spot given the fretboard.
I'd use it as is for now and if you want to try the longer scale, the GeorgeBoards kit is generally well spoken of. Extends bridge and nut back a bit with a new fretboard to give I think 22 or 22.5 ".
Nothing stopping you from learning the basics on the extra short scale...that's what I did, on a extremely short scale (20.5") Morrell lap steel.
_________________
Waikīkī, at night when the shadows are falling
I hear the rolling surf calling
Calling and calling to me |
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Jim Graham
From:
Ontario, Canada
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Posted 26 Apr 2020 4:07 am
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| I bought one a few months ago to keep at my teaching room. I changed the strings right away as the ones it came with were far too light. While doing that I came to the conclusion that the tuning keys also needed replacement. Amazon carries several sets with the same measurements, so for about $25.00 I got a reasonable set. Having done that I find it's not a bad guitar considering the price and minor tweaks mentioned above. I've got a set of C6 GHS strings on it and it's OK for what I need. I wouldn't take on stage anywhere though. |
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Gene Tani
From:
Pac NW
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Posted 26 Apr 2020 4:48 am
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Check intonation, as Nic said, it's pretty frequently slightly off, slight gaps between fretboard and nut, improperly filed nut/bridge slots, a lot of things could throw it off. Howa re volume/tone controls?
Is i tthis bridge, nut? A very small amount of Triflow/teflon lube in the slots, NOT the "Dry formula", could help
https://www.musiciansfriend.com/folk-traditional-instruments/rogue-rls-1-lap-steel-guitar-with-stand-and-gig-bag
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- keyless Sonny Jenkins laps stay in tune forever!; Carter PSG
- The secret sauce: polyester sweatpants to buff your picks, cheapo Presonus channel strip for preamp/EQ/compress/limiter, Diet Mountain Dew |
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