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Topic: 2nd String Lower Problem |
Dave Seddon
From:
Leicester, England.
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Posted 18 Apr 2020 3:52 am |
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| Hi, I am working on a Sho-Bud Pro1 for a friend making a few setup changes and I find it impossible to lower the second string a full tone, I've tried different rod positions but no joy. I have to say the changer is not the original as this one is stainless steel, beautifully made, at a guess I'd say the parts were laser cut and it has has cage bearings to push the string fingers. the changer will only pull so far and then it gets stuck and at full stretch it will only lower a few cents below D. Am I missing something? Any suggestions would be gratefully received. Or is the changer badly designed. Dave. |
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 18 Apr 2020 5:44 am
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if there is a "raise" spring on that 2nd finger(that is the spring next to cabinet of guitar hooks to bracket on bottom); take it off. That should help it lower further. Do you have a pic of that changer underneath and from end of end plate? Like to see what fingers are in it.
Ricky
_________________
Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 18 Apr 2020 8:23 am
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| Does the raise finger move when you're trying to do the lower? |
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Bengt Erlandsen
From:
Brekstad, NORWAY
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Posted 18 Apr 2020 2:25 pm
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Make sure there isnt a lower-limiting screw(aka split-tuning screw) at the end of the changer on string 2 stopping the string from lowering. Might have been set to restrict 2nd string lower at C# if string 9 was beeing used as halfstop feel for a D#-D-C# move on string 2.
B.Erlandsen |
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Ian Worley
From:
Sacramento, CA
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Posted 18 Apr 2020 4:38 pm
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Is this a later Sho-Bud with a 2/2 or 3/2 finger? If so, there is a little projecting ear with a hole where the raise helper springs attach. It's fairly common to see this ear cut off on the string 2 finger. When the finger is moving in the lowering direction this little ear will eventually bump into head of the lower pivot rivet. Cutting off the ear allows it to clear the rivet and move just a little farther. It's because the of the small string gauge, it's a longer pull and typically needs just a little bit more movement to reach the full whole-step lower.
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Patrick Fleming
From:
South Dakota, USA
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Posted 19 Apr 2020 4:25 pm
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| The picture that Ian Shows is exactly what was happening to me when I tried to lower My G# to F#. I could tune the split to G but then when lowering to F# just before in got in tune it would start to raise. I thought is was a worn finger. (I am not sure that I am ready to chop my finger off though) |
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Jim Palenscar
From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 19 Apr 2020 9:24 pm
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| Generally the 1st thing that I look at is Ricky's comment(of course) and look at the presence of a raise helper and remove it if present. Also putting the lowering rod farthest from the pivot point can help (as far from the changer axle as possible) can help as well as excessive tension on the return spring can cause it to start to raise while lowering. The final thing is the tab on the lower scissor that contacts the changer finger can wear a groove in the finger itself and simply render the desired lower impossible. The fix for that is either replace the changer finger(preferable) or bend the lowering scissor tab slightly so that it contacts the changer finger in a different area. |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 20 Apr 2020 4:29 am
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| Trying to change the half step raise of the 1st string on my 6160 to a full step, I discovered that the finger was hitting the wood cutout of the body and couldn't move any further. And absolute limiter. I took a chisel to it to allow more movement and it worked. Raises, though, are mechanically simpler. |
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