Douglas Schuch
From:
Valencia, Philippines
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Posted 28 Jul 2019 5:21 pm |
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I own a M2 - one year before they switched to the M3. I also use to own an M3.
My thoughts on them:
Differences between them: the M2 has the knee levers with the carbon pieces on them, and also the carbon fiber shell over the pedal bar. The M3 has all alloy for those parts. I assume MSA ran out of the carbon pieces, but don't know that for sure.
Weight:
M2, 8x8 D-10: 36.8 lbs
M3, 8x8, but with one extra cross shaft unused, D-10: 39.8 lbs
The pedal bar on the M2 has an alloy insert that holds all the working parts, and is attached to the carbon fiber shell with 8 set screws - 2 up, 2 down, at each end of the pedal bar. This is a possible point for introducing play into the pedal action. a Lightweight carbon composite can flex - if you over-tighten the set screws, the carbon shell will spread out, and it won't fit into the space for it on the legs (the front legs have solid ledges below the joint between the two sizes of tubing and the pedal bar fits precisely between these two points - a good feature). Also, if the set screws get loose, the metal insert can then wobble inside the shell, or the shell can move up and down slightly on the legs - hence play and poor action. This is a very simple fix, but one that does not occur on the M3 with the rigid all-metal pedal bar. However, I assume some of the weight savings of the M2 are from this carbon shell.
If there is any difference in any other of the mechanical parts of the two models, I am unaware of them.
One of the few drawbacks of these guitars is that you can not add or shift a cross shaft for a new or different pedal or lever without significant disassembly of the rest of the mechanics, or so I was told. I owned an '84 Zumsteel were it was very easy to add extra cross-shafts. If Bruce could solve this in the early 80's, seems MSA could have done the same with the Millies, but they did not. When I wanted to add levers to my M2, MSA strongly recommended I return it to them for the work, which I did.
Tone - Before selling my Sho-Bud Pro II round-front, which many consider the epitome of tone for Sho-Buds, if not for all pedal steels, I was able to play my M2 and the Sho-Bud through the same setup.
M2: Alumitone pickups, Hilton pedal, Zoom MS50g for reverb, and one channel of Stereo Steel amp into a Telonics 12" open back cab or a Sica 15" steel frame open back cab.
Sho-Bud: Wallace True Tone single coils wound to Ricky Davis' recommended level, with coil taps, - both with and without a Li'l Izzy - and the rest was the same.
I like a pretty classic, West Coast tone, I think - brighter instead of warmer. I personally preferred the tone of the MSA to the Sho-Bud. YMMV, of course. I am of the opinion that steel guitars actually have only minor influence over the final tone - amps, speakers, pickups, and of course, the player have a much bigger impact. But what difference I could discern, I preferred the MSA. I certainly saw no reason to haul around a guitar with a much clunkier action, weighting half again as much, with limited ability to add pedals and levers because I wanted a "vintage sound".
The biggest reasons I like the Millennium: obviously, the low weight - although there is less difference these days between a wood MSA and the Millie. Also, though, I live in the tropics, where few houses are air-conditioned, as our temps generally stay between 70-90. So houses are open to the moisture and humidity at all times. Laminate over wood particularly has difficulties with this scenario, as the wood will expand, but laminate is inert. Carbon fiber composite is very inert - the body should be very stable, despite changes in temps or humidity. The metal, of course, will still react to temp changes, but its just one less worry.
As for those who think a carbon guitar will sound "plastic", or dull, or whatever - well, simply put, that is just ignorance. There are very high quality carbon fiber guitars and violins that maybe do not compare to the absolute highest-end wood instruments, but are rated equal to the next level down (which is all any of us could ever afford). They are even making Violins now using 3D printers, and top flight violinists say that, while they sound different, they sound pretty good. Carbon Fiber layup I think would produce a much better instrument than 3D printing, at least at current tech levels.
And, to state the obvious, the wood of a classic acoustic guitar or violin is far, far, far more important to the tone and even just creation of the sound than that of a pedal steel.
Personally, I think the later model Millenniums arguably reflect a peak of steel guitar design and construction, and with them out of production, I think the prices they go for represent one of the better values on the market. If I were rich, I'd have bought both of the D-10's that have recently been in the forum. Being poor and retired, I'm just happy to own the one I have.
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Bringing steel guitar to the bukid of Negros Oriental! |
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Darvin Willhoite
From:
Roxton, Tx. USA
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Posted 28 Jul 2019 6:53 pm
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I still have mine, and still like it a lot.
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Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro. |
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