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Topic: How can you tell a PSG has a Pull Release changer |
Gary Hoetker
From:
California, USA
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Posted 19 Apr 2019 11:25 am |
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I have a beginner Marlen S10 Pull Release that was professionally tuned recently.
It is my understanding that each pedal is engaged and tuned at the tuning keys on the neck instead of at the changers: and when they are in tune then the corresponding pedal is released; and then you finish tuning the strings on the changers. Am I on the right track or not?
Sometime, I will need to do the tuning. What reading material would you recommend to learn more about Pull Release mechanism.
Thanks for helping. It is greatly appreciated. |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 19 Apr 2019 11:52 am
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This is a pull/release changer:
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Douglas Schuch
From:
Valencia, Philippines
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Posted 19 Apr 2019 4:27 pm
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Erv's picture pretty much sums it up - the fingers are just straight, fixed extensions of the round part the string passes over. Of course, I think P/P fingers are the same. But all-pull fingers usually have a thin, "blade" style finger that incorporates a hinge, and has two distinct sections where the pull rods pass through - one for raises, and one for lowers.
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Bringing steel guitar to the bukid of Negros Oriental! |
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richard burton
From:
Britain
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Posted 20 Apr 2019 1:06 am
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| If your Marlen has been professionally tuned, and if your Marlen is as good and stable as my Marlen, then, as long as you don't alter any string gauges, it's ok to put new strings on and tune them up to open pitch at the keyhead, as long as you don't press any pedals or activate any levers during the tuning process (and don't turn any tuning screws on the endplate) |
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Tony Prior
From:
Charlotte NC
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Posted 20 Apr 2019 1:58 am
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also note the positions of the collars as opposed to a Push Pull or ALL Pull.
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jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years
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Stu Schulman
From:
Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)
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Posted 20 Apr 2019 4:35 am
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I was wondering if someone can tell me what kinda changer my Blanton has?
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Steeltronics Z-pickup,Desert Rose S-10 4+5,Desert Rose Keyless S-10 3+5... Mullen G2 S-10 3+5,Telonics 206 pickups,Telonics volume pedal.,Blanton SD -10,Emmons GS_10...Zirctone bar,Bill Groner Bar...any amp that isn't broken.Steel Seat.Com seats...Licking paint chips off of Chinese Toys since 1952. |
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Dave Magram
From:
San Jose, California, USA
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Posted 20 Apr 2019 9:13 am
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| Douglas Schuch wrote: |
| Erv's picture pretty much sums it up - the fingers are just straight, fixed extensions of the round part the string passes over. Of course, I think P/P fingers are the same. |
Not really, Doug. Push/pull changer-fingers are a bit more complex design than a pull-release changer.
Push/pull changer-fingers are split into two parts; the "inner" half raises the string when it is pulled, and the "outer" half lowers the string when it is pushed.
It is this "split personality" of the P/P changer-fingers that causes the raises to override the lowers. It also requires enough slack in the raise collar-setting for the string to lower all the way--when a particular string is being both raised and lowered.
- Dave
Last edited by Dave Magram on 20 Apr 2019 1:33 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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b0b
From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
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Posted 20 Apr 2019 9:31 am Marlen 70's Era Pull-Release Pedal Steel
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I recently restored one of these. Here's the write-up I did of it.
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General tuning procedure for each string:
- Tune the highest note with the keyhead tuner.
- Tune the lowest note with the brass hex screw at the end plate.
- Tune any intermediate notes with nylon tuning nuts in the changer cavity
Specifics:
- Strings 1 and 7 – tune F# at the keyhead (no changes)
- String 2 – tune D# at the keyhead, D at the endplate with RKR engaged
- Strings 3 and 6 – tune A at the keyhead with P2 down, G# at the endplate
- String 4 – tune F# at the keyhead with P1 down, D# at the endplate with LKL engaged, E with the LKL nylon tuning nut, F with the RKL nylon tuning nut
- Strings 5 and 10 – tune C# at the keyhead with P3 down, B at the endplate
- String 8 – tune F at the keyhead with RKL engaged, D# at the endplate with LKL engaged, E with the LKL tuning nut
- String 9 – tune D at the keyhead (no changes)
Note that this guitar requires a wound .022 for the 6th string. The plain .020 included in most E9th string sets will not work.
2018.12.2 -b0b-
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b0b
From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
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Posted 20 Apr 2019 9:39 am
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| richard burton wrote: |
| If your Marlen has been professionally tuned, and if your Marlen is as good and stable as my Marlen, then, as long as you don't alter any string gauges, it's ok to put new strings on and tune them up to open pitch at the keyhead, as long as you don't press any pedals or activate any levers during the tuning process (and don't turn any tuning screws on the endplate) |
I agree. Once the pedals and knee levers are in tune, you should only need to tune the open strings at the keyhead. My complicated instructions above are for setup and in case of problems. If you always use the same brand and gauge of strings, just tune everything at the keyhead.
By the way, here's a PDF of the instructions I posted above:
https://b0b.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Marlen-Pull-Release.pdf
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