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Author Topic:  Guitar strings on pedal steel
Sean Downing

 

From:
Lansdale, Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 15 Mar 2019 2:40 pm    
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Sorry if this is a dumb question. I’m very new to pedal steel. I keep breaking my high G# string when I change it. I’ve been using a 10 gauge string and both times I tried to put a new string on it broke. So I decided to get some guitar strings (9 and 10 gauge). But first I wanted to ask the forum before I do anything too stupid. Thanks folks
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 15 Mar 2019 2:50 pm    
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Strings are strings, pretty much. The only problem you might have is that sometimes the wrap twists are too long for pedal steel, and the hang over the top (crowns) of the fingers. This will cause buzzing, and it may also scar the top of the fingers. But other than that, they're fine. If I were you, I'd try an .011 or .0115, as heavier gauges seem to last longer. Some players are even using a .012 for the 3rd. It seems counter-intuitive, but it does help.

(Hurts like hell when they break, though. Laughing )
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Ian Rae


From:
Redditch, England
Post  Posted 15 Mar 2019 3:44 pm    
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Sean, do they break at the tuning peg or at the changer finger? If it's the peg use more turns; if it's the finger make sure it's smooth.

+1 for going heavier not lighter.
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Paul Sutherland

 

From:
Placerville, California
Post  Posted 15 Mar 2019 3:53 pm    
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As you wind the string on make sure it is not crossing over itself. Under the high pressure it can cut itself in two.
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Bobby D. Jones

 

From:
West Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 15 Mar 2019 6:32 pm     Guitar strings on a pedal steel
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The thing to match is the diameter of strings.
It seems to be personal choice using 3rd strings E9th from .011 to .0125. Larger strings take less pull to raise to the desired note. So the smaller the string the further it must be pulled to reach the higher note.
Some companies now pack their individual strings in vapor sealed plastic envelopes for long time storage.

When putting on a new 3rd string, Be sure to cut the string long enough to allow the string to wind 4 or 5 wraps and get off the tuner cross shaft hole so the string will not break itself on the cross hole.
A string breaking at the key head is dangerous, Be careful
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Tony Prior


From:
Charlotte NC
Post  Posted 16 Mar 2019 12:53 am    
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as mentioned, many guitar string brands have the ball end wrap too long and it may be very close or sit on the edge of the changer bridge.

Also when installing at the key post, be sure to maintain positive tension while wrapping so the initial bend does not move while turning the key post. I've never had an issue with string wraps crossing over as it winds to pitch, but if the initial bend moves,lightening will strike in a hurry ! 5 wraps is considered typical.

Bring it to pitch slowly, pressing the B Pedal a few times before you get to pitch. Gently tug the string ( pull up) when at pitch to secure the wrap, GENTLY !

Knowing where the string is breaking is critical for understanding why.

A 9 or 10 is too light for the 3rd, , as mentioned .011 or .0115 is typical and common.
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Last edited by Tony Prior on 16 Mar 2019 8:47 am; edited 1 time in total
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Greg Lambert

 

From:
Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 16 Mar 2019 6:00 am    
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On my Derby you can absolutely not cross over the string while winding . It will break within the first song. Every time.
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 16 Mar 2019 7:18 am    
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Greg Lambert wrote:
On my Derby you can absolutely not cross over the string while winding . It will break within the first song. Every time.


Sharp edges on the string hole in the key usually cause that problem. Like Tony, I also cross the strings over (on the first wrap), and then give an additional 5-6 wraps to prevent slipping. Wink
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Jim Cooley


From:
The 'Ville, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 16 Mar 2019 7:57 am    
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Greg Lambert wrote:
On my Derby you can absolutely not cross over the string while winding . It will break within the first song. Every time.


I have never had this problem with my Derby, but I had a similar problem on another steel when changing strings. I found a sharp edge on the inside of the hole in the post. A little careful deburring solved the issue.

I always wind my strings at the keyhead so that they maintain the straightest possible path from the chenger to the nut roller to the keyhead. I make the first wrap on the side of the hole away from the desired direction. I then wrap back over the string in the intended direction. On my Derby's third string, the straightest path results from winding the string toward the center of the keyhead. So, when changing strings I insert the string in the hole and make a bend in the string before I start winding. Then I wind one wrap toward the outside of the keyhead. I then wrap back over the string toward the center of the keyhead (end of the post) until the string is wound slightly flat of proper pitch. I try to cut the new string so I get at least 5 wraps between the hole and the end of the tuning peg. I press the B pedal a few times to help stretch the string as I wind to pitch. I can't remember the last time a string broke while changing.


Last edited by Jim Cooley on 16 Mar 2019 8:17 am; edited 1 time in total
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Sean Downing

 

From:
Lansdale, Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 16 Mar 2019 8:05 am    
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Thanks for the info everyone!!! I used an 11, put a gazillion wraps around the tuning peg and wound slowly with pressure and pressed the b pedal while stretching the string. It’s been on the guitar for 5 minutes and counting which crushed my previous record of never getting to pitch. Lol
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Tony Prior


From:
Charlotte NC
Post  Posted 16 Mar 2019 8:51 am    
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Greg Lambert wrote:
On my Derby you can absolutely not cross over the string while winding . It will break within the first song. Every time.



Not sure why that would be the case, Derby is a brand of Steel not a tuning machine . I cross over with every new string , ( well not the fat ones ) always have . every Steel I have ever owned, all brands of tuning machines. I will say that if the bend into the peg moves even slightly, all bets are off. You may need a band-aid !


Odd is all I can say.
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Dennis Montgomery


From:
Western Washington
Post  Posted 16 Mar 2019 9:12 am    
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Sean Downing wrote:
Thanks for the info everyone!!! I used an 11, put a gazillion wraps around the tuning peg and wound slowly with pressure and pressed the b pedal while stretching the string. It’s been on the guitar for 5 minutes and counting which crushed my previous record of never getting to pitch. Lol


Hey Sean, here's the Mullen how-to video that I used to learn how to properly wind string 3. If this technique works for a Mullen I'd guess it'd work on anything else Winking

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkdbQOwvi8w
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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 16 Mar 2019 9:45 am    
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Try a 12 on the high string.
And as far as using guitar strings on a pedal steel, for years I would buy Ernie Ball strings by the gauge for my guitars, including pedal steel, with no problem. Very Happy
Erv
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John Spaulding


From:
Wisconsin, USA
Post  Posted 16 Mar 2019 5:57 pm    
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Here's a video with some stringing tips: Changing Strings
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Kevin Fix

 

From:
Michigan, USA
Post  Posted 16 Mar 2019 8:07 pm    
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Years ago I would go to my local music store and asked the clerk for his Ernie Ball box. I would go through the box and create me a new set of strings for both necks. Always used the Nickel Wound ones. The store clerk kept the box full for me.
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