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Topic: Question about purchasing a ShoBud |
Eric Davidson
From:
Kentucky, USA
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Posted 25 Apr 2019 9:05 am |
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Hi, I’ve been looking to upgrade from a student model and after putting it up for sale, it sold a lot faster than I expected. Not wanting to be without a steel too long I have been looking pretty hard and selling off gear like crazy to raise money. I’ve found one for sale and he is actually in my state. But I have two concerns. One is that I think it’s priced too high at $2400 but he said he’d knock off $200 since he wouldn’t have to ship. Secondly, as a beginner, I don’t want to get something that I’m worried more about tinkering with it, than just learning. Having said that, I’ve always been drawn toward vintage instruments and really want an Emmons or Shobud. I guess me question is, what would be a fair price for the Shobud and secondly, should I just hold off for a Bud or Emmons that a reputable seller is selling. The pics don’t give much detail but there’re probably the most detailed he has posted. Also, I don’t mind doing a little cleaning up on the guitar, I just want to be more concerned with playing.
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Ken Pippus
From:
Langford, BC, Canada
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Posted 25 Apr 2019 9:41 am
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| One lever, rack and barrel The Professional. Too much money, and it would cost a bunch to add enough levers to give you much in the way of a "modern" copedent. |
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Eric Davidson
From:
Kentucky, USA
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Posted 25 Apr 2019 9:59 am
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| Ken Pippus wrote: |
| One lever, rack and barrel The Professional. Too much money, and it would cost a bunch to add enough levers to give you much in the way of a "modern" copedent. |
Thanks! Exactly the type of info I needed. So would it be better to stay away altogether, or possibly offer a more realistic amount? |
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Ken Pippus
From:
Langford, BC, Canada
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 25 Apr 2019 10:46 am
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YES, just what Ken P said.
Ricky
_________________
Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com |
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Eric Davidson
From:
Kentucky, USA
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Posted 25 Apr 2019 10:50 am
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| Ken Pippus wrote: |
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=344237
If this is still available, it's way more bang for the buck. I personally wouldn't want to put a lot of money into a rack and barrel 'Bud. |
I did inquire about that one but it is spoken for unfortunately. Somebody got a beauty though! |
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Dave Mudgett
From:
Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee
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Posted 25 Apr 2019 11:06 am
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I agree with Ken to skip that Bud for anything like that kind of money, and agree that the other one on the forum makes much more sense. But I guess that's moot anyway now.
But if you're a beginner and you have $2-3 grand to spend, I would suggest, for now, a more modern pedal steel that's in primo shape. I see used Mullen, Show Pro, Jackson, Carter, Emmons, Rittenberry, Justice, Derby, and even sometimes a slightly older 80s Zum D10 in that general price range. Some maybe a bit on the high side of the range, but I think worth it to get something that you don't have to worry about. The mechanics on some Buds are fine, but others can be shaky. I'm not just jackassing - I've had a few and the experiences of others corroborate this: https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=341934
If you really want a Sho Bud, I think you should be very careful and validate that the mechanics are solid before you throw down your hard-earned money. Or get it cheap enough that you can justify a major expensive overhaul. |
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 25 Apr 2019 12:05 pm
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Hey Eric asd also what Dave just said is great advice...as all those he mentioned are MUCH MORE user friendly to a beginner/intermediate....;as many of the older pedal steels really do need mechanical knowledge to get them to "Play user friendly"... and that's what I do.
I restore only Sho~bud; and if you come across one that is said to be very good...run it by me and I can give you the thumbs up or down from a few pics....
sshawaiian@austin.rr.com is my email....this is what we're all here for bro...so good luck down the path man.
Ricky
_________________
Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com |
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Eric Davidson
From:
Kentucky, USA
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Posted 25 Apr 2019 2:42 pm
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| Ricky Davis wrote: |
Hey Eric asd also what Dave just said is great advice...as all those he mentioned are MUCH MORE user friendly to a beginner/intermediate....;as many of the older pedal steels really do need mechanical knowledge to get them to "Play user friendly"... and that's what I do.
I restore only Sho~bud; and if you come across one that is said to be very good...run it by me and I can give you the thumbs up or down from a few pics....
sshawaiian@austin.rr.com is my email....this is what we're all here for bro...so good luck down the path man.
Ricky |
Thanks Ricky, that is a very generous offer! I'll take you up on that if/when I find one. Im hoping sooner rather than later. Thanks again! |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 25 Apr 2019 2:46 pm
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| Ken Pippus wrote: |
| One lever |
I see two. |
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Eric Davidson
From:
Kentucky, USA
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Posted 25 Apr 2019 2:48 pm
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| Dave Mudgett wrote: |
I agree with Ken to skip that Bud for anything like that kind of money, and agree that the other one on the forum makes much more sense. But I guess that's moot anyway now.
But if you're a beginner and you have $2-3 grand to spend, I would suggest, for now, a more modern pedal steel that's in primo shape. I see used Mullen, Show Pro, Jackson, Carter, Emmons, Rittenberry, Justice, Derby, and even sometimes a slightly older 80s Zum D10 in that general price range. Some maybe a bit on the high side of the range, but I think worth it to get something that you don't have to worry about. The mechanics on some Buds are fine, but others can be shaky. I'm not just jackassing - I've had a few and the experiences of others corroborate this: https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=341934
If you really want a Sho Bud, I think you should be very careful and validate that the mechanics are solid before you throw down your hard-earned money. Or get it cheap enough that you can justify a major expensive overhaul. |
Thanks Dave, I guess I'm actually a Re-beginner haha. I had a ShoBud a few years ago and got frustrated, needed money and sold it. In this case it wasnt the guitar's fault though, it just didnt click at that time. I recently decided to take another stab at it and it is making a lot more sense though I'm not sure why, although Ive still got a very very loooong way to go. Having said all that, I agree that I dont want to be fiddling with the mechanics because that would just hinder progress. I'll kep my eyes peeled for some of the ones you mentioned, Thanks! |
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Douglas Schuch
From:
Valencia, Philippines
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Posted 25 Apr 2019 3:02 pm
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Eric, you've gotten some great advice, and also a great offer from Ricky Davis - he is THE MAN when it comes to Sho-Bud restoration (not to mention his skill at playing them).
My advice is this: Step one is to figure out if you want a single or a double neck. Probably more than half the steelers on the forum do not play C6, even if they own a double-neck. Save your back and some bucks and don't buy a double-neck if you are not planning on learning C6. Here's a quick way to figure it out - go to Greg Cutshaw's page and search "tab" - that should get you to his first page of tab. You can search tab page 2 to find the next one, and so on. Then, just listen to his various licks, intros, and solos, noting if they are for C6 or E9. If the C6 sound speaks to you, then consider getting a D-10 or Universal. If it's the classic country honky-tonk sounds of E9 you prefer, then you could be happy with just a single neck. Keep in mind that you can "fake" a lot of C6 stuff on the E9 neck (and vice versa), but the tunings just lend themselves to certain styles more. Jazz and Swing is mostly played on E9, honky-tonk and country rock (and rock) mostly on E9.
Once you've figured out what style of guitar you are looking for, it will be much easier to choose one to buy.
_________________
Bringing steel guitar to the bukid of Negros Oriental! |
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Eric Davidson
From:
Kentucky, USA
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Posted 25 Apr 2019 3:12 pm
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| Douglas Schuch wrote: |
Eric, you've gotten some great advice, and also a great offer from Ricky Davis - he is THE MAN when it comes to Sho-Bud restoration (not to mention his skill at playing them).
My advice is this: Step one is to figure out if you want a single or a double neck. Probably more than half the steelers on the forum do not play C6, even if they own a double-neck. Save your back and some bucks and don't buy a double-neck if you are not planning on learning C6. Here's a quick way to figure it out - go to Greg Cutshaw's page and search "tab" - that should get you to his first page of tab. You can search tab page 2 to find the next one, and so on. Then, just listen to his various licks, intros, and solos, noting if they are for C6 or E9. If the C6 sound speaks to you, then consider getting a D-10 or Universal. If it's the classic country honky-tonk sounds of E9 you prefer, then you could be happy with just a single neck. Keep in mind that you can "fake" a lot of C6 stuff on the E9 neck (and vice versa), but the tunings just lend themselves to certain styles more. Jazz and Swing is mostly played on E9, honky-tonk and country rock (and rock) mostly on E9.
Once you've figured out what style of guitar you are looking for, it will be much easier to choose one to buy. |
I agree Doug, thats a very generous offer from Ricky Davis!
Im not exactly sure at the moment if I want a double neck as Ive played a 52 Fender Dual Pro for a while and am familiar with C6 but have no familiarity with pedal steel C6. On one hand I think that when I want C6, I'll just grab the ole Fender. But on the other hand I think having a double neck would be the best of both worlds but I don't wanna kill my back further than it is already. So far, Ive really leaned toward finding an SD10 but am not seeing anything at the moment that is in my price range. Ill keep looking though |
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Eric Davidson
From:
Kentucky, USA
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Posted 26 Apr 2019 5:19 am Carter
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I know nothing of Carter steel guitars other than they have a relatively good reputation, and I have to admit that an Emmons or Shobud has more appeal. However, this is a little more in my price range and thought I’d see if any of you folks would care to weigh in? Thanks for all of the input so far, much appreciated.
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=344307
Last edited by Eric Davidson on 26 Apr 2019 6:57 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Richard Sinkler
From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
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Posted 26 Apr 2019 6:52 am
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Carters are great guitars. Relatively easy to work on if needed. Some parts are still available from Steel Guitars of Canada (Al Brisco). I love my Carter.
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Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 54 years and still counting. |
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J R Rose
From:
Keota, Oklahoma, USA
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Posted 26 Apr 2019 7:27 am
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Hi Eric, I will add to what Richard says about the Carter. They are a good guitar, not a real back breaker and play and stay in tune as well as any. But with any guitar you are going to have some repairs along the way, it just happens. The Carter has one weak point that most Carter players know about and that is the dogbone on the bell cranks that the changer pull rods connect to. And Al Brisco does have those the only problem is his minimum order plus shipping from Canada is a lot. It is a great design that Bud Carter did, center pull on the pull rods. I ordered and brought a brand new Carter in 90 and loved it. Played for years and never no problems. Later on I sold it and had a couple of other Carter's and that was the problem with them. But also easy to work on. I do suggest the SD-10 Body style. It give you that feel that you get with an D-10. Then if someday you step up to a D-10 the feel will be the same when you set under it. Good Luck in your search, J.R. Rose
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NOTHING..Sold it all. J.R. Rose |
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