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Post new topic GFI Ultra U12 E9/B6 D13th Conversion
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Author Topic:  GFI Ultra U12 E9/B6 D13th Conversion
Jamie Howze

 

From:
Boise, ID
Post  Posted 17 Sep 2019 2:25 pm    
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I have been an E9/B6 universal player since I first started seriously trying to play pedal steel. I chose the universal tuning because it made good musical sense and I had visions of playing it as one big tuning. However, I found that the E9/B6 was still designed to be played in E9 or B6 configuration. It can be effectively used as a big tuning, but I find it difficult to think quickly enough to switch between positions based on E to positions based upon B. It is easy enough to think E9 or B6, but I find it difficult to navigate both simultaneously.

Enter the Johnny Cox/B0b version of D13th for 12 string 7+5. I am fascinated by the potential of this tuning, it seems to have all of the features of my E9/B6 setup but all relative to a common root. I have a GFI Ultra that I decided to convert and give it a shot.

The first issue was that the GFI has a triple raise double lower changer so I fashioned a Bradshaw style R/L extender device as documented here for string 11. I used a piece of 1/2" x 1/4" aluminium bar stock. I ordered a set of strings from the Forum Store and went to work. I'm not a skilled steel mechanic, but fortunately GFIs are very easy to work on. I removed all of the pulls and set the bellcranks first. I didn't tighten them too much because I always find I have to fudge some in the final rodding. I rodded the strings from high to low and, mostly, from raises to lowers. I had drawn a rodding chart arranged by string and, again mostly, figured out the order of rods from closest to the body out. The Forum Store Workstand is a wonderful tool. It was a non-trivial rodding job made worse by my Ultra being old with a mix of 6 and 7 hole bellcranks and a couple of different diameter rods. My first attempt at the R/L extender was a fail (shortcut bad!) but I learned from the experience and came up with a better way to make it which works great.

The results are very similar to the Emmons style version that B0b put up, but I lower my 4th and 9th strings on my RKL and lower the 7th string on the LKR. I also like the normal P7 in the P4 position. LKR is a bit stiff as I have the string 1 and 2 raises for now but may back them off, the jury is still out on them. Otherwise it plays great. I have both a .060 and .064 low D string. For now I'm using the .060 and it doesn't sound too floppy to me when down to B with P4. I'll probably change it out and see but for now I'm happy. The timbre of D vs E is suprisingly different it has much more of a growl which I think I am gonna like but, again, takes getting used to.



Now I just have to learn to play this beast! So far I'm mostly trying to habituate the basic grips. It will be a challenge, but I'm pretty excited to take it on.


Bellcranks set


Rodded.
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Earnest Bovine


From:
Los Angeles CA USA
Post  Posted 17 Sep 2019 3:06 pm    
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Gene Fields played 12 string D13 on his personal guitars, one of which I have now, and I like a lot. Of course I have ext E9 on there instead but the D13 was interesting.
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Earnest Bovine


From:
Los Angeles CA USA
Post  Posted 17 Sep 2019 3:14 pm    
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Does the sympathetic vibration of string 5 bother you when you pick the raised string 6 then release the raise? That bothered me when I tried this type of tuning. You can get around it by adding the raise B to C on string 6 with the A pedal (your P1). Just put another ferrule & pull rod in the same puller that pulls string 6. You can always tune it out if you don't like it. (But the pull to C is very nice IMO.) And when you do want the unison B notes, use the C pedal.
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Jamie Howze

 

From:
Boise, ID
Post  Posted 22 Oct 2019 3:16 pm    
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A few more comments after a month with D13.
While adjusting all the pulls and rodding, I found that I couldn't get the timing for the feel half-stop on the 2nd string so I settled for a C#->C change (My GFI doesn't have a mechanical half-stop). It's not a big deal, I only had the half-step lower on it when it was E9/B6. I also added the pull that Earnest suggested on the 5th(B). It worked great just as he explained using an existing bellcrank. It sounds awkward, but lined up far better than it had in my mind. I found the unison Bs troublesome and like having the sus4 there without bar or pedal movement (thanks Earnest).

Thus far I've been enjoying the D9 side of the tuning as I am more familiar with E9 side when it was E9/B6. Pretty soon, though, I'll be breaking out Basic C6 and work on that side for a while.
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Markus Mayerhofer


From:
Vienna, Austria
Post  Posted 23 Oct 2019 11:15 am    
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Quote:
The first issue was that the GFI has a triple raise double lower changer so I fashioned a Bradshaw style R/L extender device as documented here for string 11.


Sorry Jamie, how does this R/L extender work? I could not find anything in the forum search...Are there some schematics or photos around here in the forum?
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Jamie Howze

 

From:
Boise, ID
Post  Posted 23 Oct 2019 1:08 pm    
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Markus, I copied the adapter from the design found in this thread. It shows several folks' take on it. I made the Bradshaw version. Here is a link to Michael Yahl's PSG Parts site. It is a good photo of the adapter but he is, unfortunately, out of stock.

The adapter isn't too difficult to make, if you have access to a drill press, files and a hacksaw. The basic design should work on most all pull changers, but may need to be altered to work with a particular changer. I used a piece of 1/4 x 1/2 aluminium bar stock. The most crucial measurement is between the holes. They MUST line up with the holes in the raise/lower fingers or it will bind. My first attempt looked a lot like the MSA version on the PSG Parts page. 1/2 inch height (the full width of the barstock) was a hair too small and I couldn't get the full 1/8" centers on the holes (for my GFI). Even expanding the holes didn't help. On my second version I used the height of the barstock for the length and cut out a piece that was 5/8" long. That allowed the adapter to be 5/8"tall and 1/2" deep which provided two advantages. First the taller section allowed the full 1/8" centers on the rod holes and second it allowed the adapter to fit onto the changer without having to trim the nylon pull rod tuners. They still protrude beyond the ends of the other tuners, but not the guitar so it still fits in the case. My GFI doesn't use the spacers.

I hope that's not TMI but I am happy with how well it works and enjoy sharing. I can try and answer if you have any more questions.


Last edited by Jamie Howze on 24 Oct 2019 11:46 am; edited 1 time in total
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Markus Mayerhofer


From:
Vienna, Austria
Post  Posted 23 Oct 2019 2:34 pm    
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Jamie, thanks a lot, this seems to be a smart solution! You may know the solution, Sierra proposed in their old manual, with a two holed slide block and collars, mounted on the pull rod. The problem with it is simply too less space inside the guitar, especially if the pull rods are not adjacent...



I'm always missing the B to C change on strings 5 and 9 in the "6th-mode" on the Uni12 for another major chord position, equivalent to the A+F position in E9 which is solved so smart in the D13 approach.
I'm a Uni-Player since i started a few years ago, but i'm really curious about the D13 tuning. I'm hesitating, cause things start to work on the E9 and especially B6 now, due to hard work....So i'm a little anxious about changing the horse, i know not too bad by now and going into a new time of transition...hmmm...
I'd be curious about your experiences on this transition process in the near future!
Cheers
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