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Author Topic:  Sho Bud pedal rods question..
Bob Carlucci

 

From:
Candor, New York, USA
Post  Posted 13 Mar 2006 3:09 pm    
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I need to make 3 pedal rods for an old Bud.. My friend Kurt Kowalski mailed me some, but they are too short and thick... They were 3/16 which is standard pedal rod size I believe. Same as my Carter from what I can detmine...

The Rods are NOT 1/8 either... Our buddy Bobby Bowman thought they might be 5/32...

They look to be about 5/32 which is an oddball size.. I didn't want to have 2 different thickness rods on the guitar with one set of pedal rod holes drilled larger than the existing 3 holes, so I ordered some 5/32 mild steel welding rod w/ a copper coat... its ALL I could find anywhere, and I had to special order it.

I plan to steel wool the copper plate off and buff them shiny.

Is 5/32 a standard Sho Bud rod size?? its not available anywhere really, and I was lucky to find ANY??

The original 3 rods that came with the guitar, AND the 3 thicker ones Kurt sent me BOTH used a 10-32 thread, even though there was a 1/32 thickness variation... Anyone know about Bud pedal rods?? bob
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Lem Smith

 

From:
Long Beach, MS
Post  Posted 13 Mar 2006 3:15 pm    
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Bob, I've seen both on Sho~Bud's. The larger size was the standard I believe, but I also had an L.D.G. which had a smaller size. Not sure if it was factory or not though.

Sorry for not being of any real help on this.
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Michael Barone


From:
Downingtown, Pennsylvania
Post  Posted 13 Mar 2006 4:21 pm    
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Bob, 5/32 pedal rods with 10/32 threads are on my Pro-1. No thickness variation. Original model 6148. About a year ago when I added pedals 4 & 5, got the parts from Duane Marrs. Also, you should get John Coop's catalog of Sho-Bud parts. There is some amazing detailed hardware there. Everything is there to rebuild the entire guitar.

Mike
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Bob Carlucci

 

From:
Candor, New York, USA
Post  Posted 13 Mar 2006 4:43 pm    
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Thanks Mike... question answered..Just wanted to make sure I wasn't crazy... Bobby Bowman thought it might be 5/32 pedal rods... I made this a 6+4, model # 6139... pretty crowded under there, but it looks like its going to work nicely..Not crazy about using copper coated rod, but it should come off easy. I hope,,, thanks for the help!!! bob
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Peter

 

Post  Posted 14 Mar 2006 11:42 am    
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Bob, an easy way to get the copper off the rods is to put the rod in the chuck of a power drill.
Then wrap a smal piece of very fine sandpaper around the rod and spin the rod in the drill whilst holding the sandpaper tight around the rod.
Then move the paper slowly up/down to clean the rod.
Careful with your hand squeezing the sandpaper against the rod! The paper will get hot!

------------------
Peter den Hartogh
1978 Emmons S10 P/P; 1977 Sho-Bud D10 ProIII Custom;
1975 Fender Artist S10; Remington U12; 1947 Gibson BR4;

Bill Ford


From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
Post  Posted 14 Mar 2006 3:53 pm    
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Peter,
This a very dangerous method of sanding a small diameter rod.(unless you run it very slowly) There is not enough material to be stable,also holding the sandpaper tightly will cause it to bind and wrap onto the rod, along with your finger. "Please" don't do it this way!!!

Bob,
Check your local welding shops/supply house for stainless tig welding rods.John Coop's sounds like a good idea.

Bill
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Peter

 

Post  Posted 14 Mar 2006 11:45 pm    
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Bill, thank you for the warning.
I did run it very slowly and I supported the free end of the rod. I held the paper by the wrapped ends and I did 12 rods like this without any problems.

I just took a lot of care and it was working fine.
But maybe you are right: careless people should not attempt this.
Joseph Barcus

 

From:
Volga West Virginia
Post  Posted 15 Mar 2006 6:09 am    
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Bobbe seymore would me the master on the buds. give him a call or email him at sales@steelguitar.net.
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Bob Carlucci

 

From:
Candor, New York, USA
Post  Posted 15 Mar 2006 8:44 am    
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I called Bobbe first before I called anyone else for some other Bud parts I needed. ... I was told they didn't sell Bud parts... Did NOT talk to Bobbe himself,but one of his employees... I CAN buy these rods, I realize that, but I'd like to save a few bucks if I can..

Not going to pay a fortune for original rods if I can help it... This is an oddball size and is not available in stainless... Peter's idea is a good one.
I have a small variable speed drill and that copper coating will come right off. It is just an anti rust coating from what the supplier told me.
.. btw,I am not an incompetent idiot and won't tear my hands off using a hand drill! .. I hope..
I added 3 pedals and a knee to this guitar and made all the undercarriage parts by hand... I would really like to make these pedal rods also..

Made all the crossshafts,shaft brackets,pull rods, knee lever mounts,knee lever stops,pedal stops, and the right knee right "oppossing fulcrum".. all with a hacksaw, grinder and drill.. I can make a few pedal pull rods too.. gone this far, would like to see this through... The guitar plays superbly and sounds incredible... out shines any Bud I've EVER had and this is my 5th pro model Sho Bud..[had a few Mavericks but they don't count as Buds] anyway, we'll get those rods made, If not, they can be had from the usual guys.. I've already made a few inquiries, but I'd like to see how she handles with my own "custom design" handiwork under the hood.... bob

[This message was edited by Bob Carlucci on 15 March 2006 at 12:14 PM.]

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Bill Ford


From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
Post  Posted 16 Mar 2006 10:32 am    
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"btw,I am not an incompetent idiot"

Bob,
I didn't mean to imply anything, it's my 20+ years as a machinest kicking in when I see something that might cause pain, scars,etc. Stitches,bandages, and finger picks do not sound good in the same sentence.

BF
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