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Post new topic Incompatible pedals
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Author Topic:  Incompatible pedals
Paul Sutherland

 

From:
Placerville, California
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2018 12:08 pm    
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I use 5 effect pedals when I use a head without reverb. I want to be able to power them all with a single One Spot, but when I do so I get a noticeable buzz. What's really odd is that if I unplug one or the other of two specific pedals everything works fine and there is no buzz.

The five pedals are a Wet Reverb and a Keeley GC-2 Limiting Amplifier that are both plugged in and running at all times. Then I have a fake organ set-up using a Mooer Yellow Comp into an Electro-harmonix C9, and a Blues Pro overdrive pedal for distortion. The organ pedal set-up and the overdrive pedal are only plugged into the steel when I use them, which is not often. But I would like to keep them plugged into the power supply to reduce the time it takes to switch over.

The odd thing is if I unplug either the Keeley pedal or the C9 pedal then the buzz goes away and everything works as it should. So the incompatible pedals are the Keeley GC-2 and the Electro-Harmonix C9.

Alternatively I can use a second One Spot so the reverb and limiting pedal are powered by one of the power supplies, and the organ and distortion are powered by the other power supply. Then everything works as it should with no significant buzz.

Can anyone explain why this is happening or suggest a better solution? I'll probably keep using two power supplies for now, but I'd like to simplify my rig wherever it's possible to do so.
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Bill A. Moore


From:
Silver City, New Mexico, USA
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2018 12:48 pm    
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One possibility:
https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/isolated-versus-non-isolated-pedal-power-supplies
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2018 1:09 pm    
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Bill's link is likely going to be the answer. In other words, an isolated power supply is one and the same as your solution of two separate ones. I first became aware of such a thing with the VooDooLabs Pedal Power.
I'm not surprised that the C9 is a culprit. I'm not familiar with the Keeley so I have no observation there. Bottom line is that intensively digital fx are hell on power supplies in exactly this way.
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David Wren


From:
Placerville, California, USA
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2018 1:17 pm    
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This is funny, just yesterday I found similar info on the Strymon Electronics page.... nice to know.
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'96 Carter U12,7X7; 1936 7 string National; Line 6 HX Stomp; Quilter TT-15/TB202; Quilter "Steelaire"; DV Mark "GH 250"with 15" 1501 BW; Boss "Katana" 100 Head w/Line 6 Cab; Telonics VP.
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Paul Sutherland

 

From:
Placerville, California
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2018 3:48 pm    
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I've seen the fancy power supplies and scoffed at the prices. I didn't think I needed such a thing. Maybe I was wrong.
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2018 4:14 pm    
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I'm not 100% positive but I think you'll find that that word 'isolated' is the difference between the $50 power unit and the $150 one.
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Paul Sutherland

 

From:
Placerville, California
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2018 4:35 pm    
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I'm sure I'll be getting an isolated power supply, if I take the plunge. I'm just trying to sort out what a reconfigured pedal board would look like, and trying to determine if that would actually make my rig simpler to set up, use, and tear down. I'm not sure I would hear any difference, but having the correct power for each pedal can't hurt.

I've been trying to look up the power needs of each of these pedals. Here's what I found:

Wet Reverb: at least 95 mA or more

Keeley GC-2: 50 mA

EH- C9: 100 mA

MI Audio Blue Pro: Can't find data

Mooer Yellow Comp: Can't find data

The One Spot is rated to 1700 mA, so it should handle the load, but it doesn't.

PS: I have a Strymon Brigadier delay pedal that I rarely use so I haven't mentioned it. I looked up it's requirements. It needs 250 mA. I wonder if it hasn't sounded that good to me because it's been under-powered.
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Last edited by Paul Sutherland on 1 Nov 2018 4:40 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Rick Abbott

 

From:
Indiana, USA
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2018 4:35 pm    
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I use a B9 and found out that I have to use the power supply that it came with to avoid that buzz.
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Brett Lanier

 

From:
Madison, TN
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2018 8:53 pm    
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1spots can only handle so much milliamperage before you get a high pitched whine. A couple digital pedals and you're pretty much maxed out. That whine is 6.8k btw, in case you're in a situation where it's coming through the PA you can have your front of house guy shelve it out. The Strymon Zuma is the best power supply I've had so far. No problems yet, and you can plug it into 110 or 220V. Very lightweight too.
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George Redmon


From:
Muskegon & Detroit Michigan.
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2018 10:59 pm    
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As Brett mentioned, i to am using a strymon product. Only i'm using the STRYMON OJAI R30 power supply there are none better. The reason i'm using the OJAI model is because i'm only running 5 pedals. My Hilton Delay pedal i'm running on it's own power supply. As well as my Wilson Wah pedal i'm using it's own supply. This is the bottom of my board.


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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 2 Nov 2018 1:45 am    
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Brett Lanier wrote:
That whine is 6.8k btw, in case you're in a situation where it's coming through the PA you can have your front of house guy shelve it out.

Great info!

I didn't know that it was a matter of maxing out the current draw (especially when on paper, things are well within listed spec). I just figured that certain digital pedals were inherent disrupters.
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John Gould


From:
Houston, TX Now in Cleveland TX
Post  Posted 2 Nov 2018 4:51 am     Power supply
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I ran into a similar problem using things like the one spot. I didn't want to spend the bucks for a Isolated power supply so I built my own . I use a laptop power supply as the main power source and built independent regulated and rectified sections for each power jack. I also was able to have different voltage outputs A did several 9 volt a couple of 12 volt and a 5 volt for my Peterson Strobo Flip
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Dennis Detweiler


From:
Solon, Iowa, US
Post  Posted 2 Nov 2018 7:43 am    
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Radio Shack sold a project book in the early 80's that had a AC to DC Adapter Project schematic. I built one and used it for several years. It could handle many pedals at one time. The voltage output was adjustable. I added extra filter caps to make it dead quiet. Our fiddle player was impressed with it and built one also. It's dimensions were approximately 4X6X4. If I can locate the book in my storage boxes, I'll post the book name and number and maybe it's available on ebay.
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Dennis Detweiler


From:
Solon, Iowa, US
Post  Posted 2 Nov 2018 7:55 am    
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The book: Engineer's Notebook (integrated ciruit applications) Archer 1980 Edition. Catalog #276-5001
Pages 94, 95, 96.
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1976 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics 427 pickup, 1975 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics X-12 pickup, Revelation preamp, Carbon Copy Delay and Hall Of Fame Reverb, Crown XLS 1002, 2- 15" Eminence Wheelhouse speakers, ShoBud Pedal, Effects Pedals. 1949 Epiphone D-8.
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ajm

 

From:
Los Angeles
Post  Posted 2 Nov 2018 10:18 am    
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I've always been wary of One Spots.
Other than a couple of videos and internet posts that I ran across a long time ago, I have no concrete evidence to base this on. They seem to work fine for a lot of folks.

I'll assume that you're using a "daisy chain" adapter cable to connect all of these to the One Spot.
Sometimes pedals just do not want to play well together.
I have about 10 pedals in my chain, all analog.
I have a home made power supply with a single output and plenty of filtering and regulation.
I have measured the current draw for each pedal and I'm well within limits when they are all connected.
When they are all daisy chained together, there is one pedal, maybe two, that does not want to play well with the others.
They either want their own power source, or a battery.

Your pedals do not seem to draw a lot of current, so I'd suspect that your are not over loading the One Spot.
I suspect that it is circuit differences that are causing the problems.
I have suspicions that as a rule digital and analog pedals often do not want to play well together.
I saw a video on Youtube once that illustrated this.
Digital pedals can have different innards and/or draw more power, and therefore not play well.

You can spend a lot of time and energy researching why your pedals are doing this, or you can throw in the towel and admit defeat and give them what they want.

If you do decide to buy a new supply with isolated outputs, MAKE SURE that they really are isolated.
Do not go by what the expert youngster behind the counter says.
I made up a list one time of a bunch of different supplies.
I was surprised that some of them that I thought would be isolated, were not.
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ajm

 

From:
Los Angeles
Post  Posted 2 Nov 2018 10:32 am    
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It sounds like you have a solution: Use two or whatever separate wall warts as required and call it a day.
But, if you decide to get a new supply, this is from a few years ago.
There have been quite a few power supplies added to the marketplace since then, so this list won't include some of them.

........................................
Dunlop Brick: NON-isolated outputs (I was surprised): $120
Voodoo Labs Pedal Power II Plus: 8x9v isolated: $170
Voodoo Labs Pedal Power Iso 5: 4x9v isolated (one 12v), one 18v isolated: $110
TRex:
Chameleon: Isolated outs: $150
Classic: 8x9v, Non-isolated: $200
Juicy Lucy:5x isolated outs, BUT they are 12v: $200
Junior: 5x9v isolated: $100
BBE Supa Charger: 8x isolated outs: $150
One Spot: Single 9v out: $35
Pedal Pad (MKS) Power Pad II: 8X 9v outs, no info on isolated or not, $90. Note: Doesn't seem to be carried by a lot of dealers, FWIW.
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Paul Sutherland

 

From:
Placerville, California
Post  Posted 2 Nov 2018 5:25 pm    
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I ordered a Voodoo Lab Dingbat Tiny pedal board with pre-installed Pedal Power X4 power supply. That should take care of my needs, and it's small.
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John Gould


From:
Houston, TX Now in Cleveland TX
Post  Posted 3 Nov 2018 5:58 pm     Power suppy
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This is the small one I built for at home, 3 isolated 9 volt one 5 volt for the tuner .



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Fender GTX 100 Fender Mustang III Fender Blues Jr. Boss Katana MKII 50
Justice Pro Lite and Sho Bud Pro II
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Mike Bacciarini


From:
Arizona
Post  Posted 6 Nov 2018 8:55 am    
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I'm using the Strymon Zuma plus the Ojai to power: EH B9, Neo Ventilator II, TC HOF mini, TC comp, Tube Screamer, EH phaser, TC HOF 2, Ernie Ball wah, headphone amp. They're all happy & it's dead quiet. Gobs of current & all isolated outputs is the way to go.





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MCI Arlington S-10 3+5, George L E-66, BJS & Emmons bars, Fender Stage Lead II 100W 1x12, Fender Satellite SFX, custom FX rack, 1983 Dobro 60D, SX-8 lap steel, Martin D16GT, Ibanez AS73, 1978 Rickenbacker 4000 custom.
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