| Author |
Topic: push/pull manual? |
Alex McCollough
From:
Nashville, Tennessee, USA
|
Posted 26 Nov 2005 7:36 pm |
|
| does anyone know of a good book/manual on push/pull repair/service, just so that i can understand the design better if i'm ever forced into working on it? |
|
|
 |
Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
|
Posted 26 Nov 2005 7:44 pm
|
|
Check out Bobbe Seymour's video
------------------
Lee, from South Texas
Down On The Rio Grande
Mullen U-12, Evans FET-500, Fender Steel King
|
|
|
|
Charles Dempsey
From:
Shongaloo, LA
|
Posted 26 Nov 2005 8:09 pm
|
|
I asked the same question three months ago. The resources that turned up were;
1. Bobbe's video.
2. A book from Emmons the name of which I can not now remember, but Rebecca will.
3. The push-pull wilderness guide which is at;
http://www.melmusic.com/laceyj/guide.html
When I met Dave Ristrim a few months back he mentioned another book. Dave, if you read this let us know the reference for that.
I strongly recommend you save a copy of the wilderness guide on your local drive.
Charlie |
|
|
|
Peter
|
Posted 27 Nov 2005 12:09 am
|
|
| Quote: |
| 2. A book from Emmons the name of which I can not now remember, but Rebecca will. |
My name is not Rebecca, but the title of the book is "METHODOLOGY and PRACTICE in PEDAL STEEL GUITAR". I bought it for $12 from Rebecca at Emmons.
|
|
|
|
John Poston
From:
Albuquerque, NM, USA
|
Posted 27 Nov 2005 10:25 am
|
|
For those who have Bobbe's video, would it be a good resource for me?
Through time and messing around, my P/P is a little out of whack - some strings don't have enough travel to get all the way to pitch, for example low C doesn't have quite enough throw to get to A. Some of the other screws are backed all the way out and the string is going exactly to pitch, but I would like some wiggle room.
I figure I need to undo everything and set it all up from scratch, but it's a little intimidating under there.
|
|
|
|
Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
|
Posted 27 Nov 2005 10:33 am
|
|
I'm not familiar with either of the other two mentioned resources but you can right now look at John Lacey's material as mentioned by Charles--
http://www.melmusic.com/laceyj/guide.html
It's good stuff. You can decide after reading it if you're going to need more.
--------------
--------------
I successfully changed the setup a bit on my p/p solely on the info I picked up there. Between the specific instructions and the common sense of studying the undersides (that had been set up by Mike Cass so I knew it was professionally done) I was able to gain the confidence to do this. I wouldn't strip it down and rebuild it based on what I learned but for general adjustments.......[This message was edited by Jon Light on 27 November 2005 at 10:37 AM.] |
|
|
|
Darryl Hattenhauer
From:
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
|
Posted 27 Nov 2005 2:28 pm
|
|
| I have Bobbe's all-pull vid. Other than my guitar, it's the #1 most valuable steel item I have. Honestly, I'd give up any tape, CD, DVD, or book I have before I'd give this up. |
|
|
|
Charles Dempsey
From:
Shongaloo, LA
|
Posted 27 Nov 2005 9:26 pm
|
|
Peter,
I think we all know who Rebecca is.
What did you think about the book? What's in it?
Charlie[This message was edited by Charles Dempsey on 28 November 2005 at 07:27 AM.] |
|
|
|
Rainer Hackstaette
From:
Bohmte, Germany
|
Posted 28 Nov 2005 3:42 am
|
|
Well, my name's not Peter, but as a certified smartass I'll chime in anyway. 
The "METHODOLOGY and PRACTICE in PEDAL STEEL GUITAR" is a small booklet of 24 pages. The second half (p. 11-24) deals with the setup of a push-pull from scratch: tuning the changer, putting in the push-rods and the pull-rods, what length of shock springs to use and on which pushes/pulls - in short: the works. Lots of black and white photos. Invaluable, if you want to set up your PP "like the factory".
Equally important is the aforementioned "Wilderness Guide".
Sorry, I can't comment on the video.
Setting up a PP is neither rocket science nor black magic. Once you understand how the changer works and have it in tune, you can set all the changes without turning the guitar back on its feet even once. You can see at the changer, if what you are doing to the collars, pedal stops, lever stops etc. will work or not. The only exception is the halftone adjuster for the F-raise on LKL. Since the raise finger doesn't stop at the body for that raise, you can't see whether it pulls far enough. You'll have to tune that by ear or electronic tuner.
There's nothing to be scared about. It won't bite ya!
Rainer
(edited: the booklet has only 24 pages, not 40 as originally stated. Invaluable, nevertheless.)
------------------
Remington, Sierra, Emmons PP, Fender Artist, Sho~Bud
[This message was edited by Rainer Hackstaette on 28 November 2005 at 11:44 AM.] |
|
|
|
richard burton
From:
Britain
|
Posted 28 Nov 2005 11:32 am
|
|
Setting up the pulls so that the fingers on the same pedal hit the body at the same time, (3+6, 5+10) is made a lot easier if one of the pull rods has a half tone adjuster on it, instead of the usual collar.
The adjuster can be positioned approximately in the correct position, then fine tuned with the screw.
Here's a picture of my home-made version:
Look at any crossrod with two bellcranks; you will notice that on one of the bellcranks there is an adjusting screw.
Note: two different designs, I was experimenting
 |
|
|
|
