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Topic: Can anybody bail me out? KL problem.... |
Chris LeDrew
From: Canada
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Posted 9 Nov 2005 9:39 pm
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I'm converting a D-10 to and SD-10, and have reconnected the pedals and one lever so far. When I connected the rods to the RKL to lower the E's, it ended up raising the E's instead of lowering them. I have the rods in the bottom holes where the changer's supposed to lower the strings, right?
Anybody have a simple answer to this? I'm just digging into the mechanics of steel, and I'm sure this is the start of a few headaches. |
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Jerry Roller
From: Van Buren, Arkansas USA
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Posted 9 Nov 2005 9:45 pm
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Chris, on an all pull changer, the bottom holes are in the lowering finger. By bottom I mean the ones furtherest from the body of the guitar. The raise finger holes are the ones closest to the body of the guitar. Note that if the pull rod is in a lowering hole it will pull against and stretch those lower return springs on the end of the changer fingers. Sounds like you got it backwards. Email me if you need help.
Jerry[This message was edited by Jerry Roller on 09 November 2005 at 09:47 PM.] |
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Jerry Overstreet
From: Louisville Ky
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Posted 9 Nov 2005 10:04 pm
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Chris, here's a visual of what Jerry is describing. The lower finger is at the top of the photo, the one with 2 hole selections, and furthest from the body. If you have the rods in those locations, then I don't have a clue as to what could be occuring. |
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Chris LeDrew
From: Canada
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Posted 9 Nov 2005 10:22 pm
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I have the rods connected to that part of the changer. The steel is not in the best shape, so I'm thinking there may be issues with the changer. Could a bad changer cause a string to raise in pitch if it's jammed somehow?
Thanks for the help, guys.... |
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Jerry Overstreet
From: Louisville Ky
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Posted 9 Nov 2005 10:31 pm
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What is the make of the guitar? Someone here is most likely familiar with the brand and it's peculiarities. Sounds as if somehow the raise fingers, helper springs, etc. are overpowering the lower fingers and causing them to work in reverse. |
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Jerry Roller
From: Van Buren, Arkansas USA
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Posted 9 Nov 2005 10:57 pm
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Chris, for the problem you describe to occur the finger pivot is not working. The raise and lowering fingers have a rivet like a pair of scissors. If that pivot is locked you when you pull the lowering finger it would drag the raise finger with it and act as a single finger changer. You could remove the lowering spring and perhaps also loosen the string and check to see if the fingers are pivoting with the tension off of them. If the pivot is working then I would think you have the lowering return spring so tight it is causing the whole mechanism to move. You might first thing if the lowering springs have adjustments loosen those springs so they are just tight enough to pull the lowering finger back against the stop. I didn't know Jerry was giving you some info the same time I was and I think he is probably right on track with the idea of the lowering spring being too tight. If it is too tight it can hold the end of the lowering finger firm against the stop and cause the puller rod to pull the pivot the wrong way, sorta wrong side out. Check the spring for being too tight and if that is not the problem then I would check out the pivoting action. There could possibly be a string end wedged in the fingers where they are riveted.
Jerry[This message was edited by Jerry Roller on 09 November 2005 at 11:02 PM.] [This message was edited by Jerry Roller on 09 November 2005 at 11:04 PM.] |
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Chris LeDrew
From: Canada
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Posted 10 Nov 2005 11:21 am
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Hey Jerry's,
I got the 4th string to lower, now I need to work on the 8th string. What is happening is exactly what you both said - the changer as a whole is moving with the string. So I will try your suggestions and see how it goes....much appreciated, guys.
The steel is a Thompson, made in Michigan around the early 70's. It was originally an 8+4 maple body with a logo in the shape of the U.S. flag that says, "Little Buddy Pro" (not to be confused with those Little Buddy student steels.) It's not the greatest quality, but I'm just putting together something I can use for practice when the Sho-Bud tied is up at gigs.
I also have the low G# returning flat and sharp, all over the place. Can't pinpoint the cause of that either. Besides that, it's pretty good. I've got 3+2 so far.
Thanks again.....Chris |
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Charlie Tryon
From: Glovertown Newfoundland, Canada
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Posted 10 Nov 2005 3:00 pm
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Chris I think you may want totake the changer off the guitar take it apart and give it a good cleaning and a proper lube job. It is not as much work as you would think but the result is a definite benifit
Charlie
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Williams D10,Fender Steel King and soon Rains D10
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Jim Bob Sedgwick
From: Clinton, Missouri USA
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Posted 10 Nov 2005 7:31 pm
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Chris for the G Sharp. Check the roller at the nut end. What you are describing is called hysteresis. If the roller does not move with the string, the string will not return to pitch and could come back sharp or flat. Clean and lubricate the rollers. Hope this helps |
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Chris LeDrew
From: Canada
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Posted 12 Nov 2005 7:43 pm
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The steel is now up and running, and I've managed to make it a successful 3+2. The low E now goes to Eb (it fixed itself somehow), but the high E when lowered was knocking the changer and affecting the 5th string, so I just disconnected it. I now only have an 8-string lower, like Lloyd.
Jim Bob, I'm going to clean the rollers and see what happens. Hopefully it's as easy as that.
Thanks again, guys. Now I have to get the other 5 pedals off.....it never ends. |
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