Derby pedal adjustment question

Joe Lipman · From: Nashville TN

I have a question about adjusting the pedals on my Derby SD10.

When fully depressed, my A pedal is slightly lower than my B pedal. Can this be adjusted? And if so, how?

My GFI has an adjustable screw that limits how far the pedal can be depressed, but I can’t find any similar adjustment on the Derby.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Joe

Roger Crawford · From: Griffin, GA USA

Joe...on the pedal rod, where it attaches to the pedal, loosen the nut over the coupling and screw the coupling farther onto the pedal rod. That will raise the pedal. Adjust it until it's the height you like and tighten the nut back down on top of it. Piece of cake!

Joe Lipman · From: Nashville TN

I appreciate your response, but I think I might not have made my question clear. I can adjust how high the pedal goes at the pedal end as you suggested. That doesn't affect how far the pedal goes down when depressed. This is what I am trying to adjust.

I hope this makes my question more clearly stated.

Thanks

Joe

Lee Baucum · From: McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier

In other words, you want to decrease the distance from the pedal up position to the pedal down position?

Joe Lipman · From: Nashville TN

I don't really care about that, but I guess that would be the result of raising the point where the pedal bottoms out when fully pressed.

Joe

Larry Bell · From: Englewood, Florida

There are three important adjustments

If you adjust the socket joint on the pedal rod you will raise or lower BOTH the rest point and the bottom of the travel.

To change the length of throw, you need to adjust the individual pulls at the bellcrank. A position further from the body of the guitar will give longer, gentler travel. A position closer to the body will give shorter, stiffer travel.

To remove slack or add travel to the pedal you adjust the pedal stop. The travel starts with the linkage against the body of the guitar and bottoms out on the stop.

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Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1984 Sho-Bud S/D-12 7x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps

John Bechtel · From: Nashville, Tennessee, R.I.P.

{([As You Were!])} There is no ‘Stop’~adjustment on a Derby Pedal! The ‘Start’~adjustment is made at the point where the bellcrank begins the change. This adjustment is made by turning the long allen-screw in the metal plate where the pedal-rod hooks in. You probably have a lot of pedal~travel before your change begins! You need to eliminate most of the extra travel by turning that long allen~screw CW, Then Rasie your pedal by turning the pedal~rod end CW. If you need to check the proper linkage for your pull`rods in the bell~cranks, e-mail me and I'l sene you a chart of the proper holes for each rod. I can even send you some pictures to show you exactly what I'm saying here! I'm no expert, but; I'm working on it¡ LOL!

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“Big John” Bechtel
’04 SD–10 Black Derby w/3 & 5 & Pad
’65 Re-Issue Fender Twin–Reverb Custom™ 15” Eminence
web site

Per Berner · From: Skovde, Sweden

When I'm fully depressed, I couldn't care less about how the pedals or anything else works...

(just couldn't resist...no hijacking intended!)

Joe Lipman · From: Nashville TN

John,

I think I see what you're talking about.

Instead of a stop screw like on my GFI you control the pedal action through the choice of 4 holes on the downward arm of the changer?

If this is the case, I can make that adjustment. Currently, the rod closest to me is on the 2nd hole from the top and the further rod is on the 3rd hole from the top. My set up is Emmons.

Any suggestions on which hole to move these to, or is such trial and error? Am I correct that this is a simple adjusment (assuming I don't drop and loose the screw)?

Joe

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