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Topic: Rodding chart and set up help for derby d10 |
Andrew Srubas
From: Minneapolis, MN
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Posted 26 Apr 2018 6:51 am
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Hey friends,
Does any one have a rodding chart for a Derby d10? I have been working on this one I might buy (see post from a week ago). It was a total mess underneath. Rods twisted around each other and super tight/ over tuning/super loose/hooked up to weird strings .
I’m trying to get it set up. I’m a newb at set up so trying to figure it out as I go. A friend helped out a little and we referenced a Williams Chart but I’m still having some issues. My RKR won’t pull my first string up to a G# and feels weird and squishing. Same weird action on LKR. Like the tension is soft on that change but becomes really stiff by the end. I definitely need to dial in what string gauges I’m using. It just has whatever was on there ( string orders in the mail!)
I’m having a hard time getting the pulls to go far enough. The only way I’m able to is if I adjust the travel super far. Farther than I would want to play on.
The other thing I noticed is the the Allen screw that controls the pedal start position; right by where the pedal rod attaches, zeroes out right on the wood of the cabinet. It has gouged a little divot. Is this how all derby’s are? Should I glue something there to protect the wood?
I’d appreciate any set up tips or rodding advice you all might have. I’d much rather be playing this thing than working on it! Like I said I don’t really know what I’m doing. I’m just figuring it out as I go! Thank you all!
AJ |
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Jerry Overstreet
From: Louisville Ky
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Posted 26 Apr 2018 7:37 am
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Dick Sexton has some info. Maybe he'll see your post and direct you to the files.
Otherwise, you might send him a PM. _________________ proud appalachian american
those of you who think you know everything annoy the he!! out of those of us that do.
never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level then beat you with experience-Mark Twain- |
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Jack Stoner
From: Kansas City, MO
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Posted 26 Apr 2018 8:20 am
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I've got the Derby instructions and rodding chart. They are two Adobe PDF documents. E-mail me and I'll send them to you. |
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Lee Warren
From: Nashville, Tennessee, USA
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Posted 26 Apr 2018 8:54 am
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Hi Jack,
I just sent you an email about the Derby information.
Thanks,
Lee |
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Jerry Overstreet
From: Louisville Ky
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Andrew Srubas
From: Minneapolis, MN
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Posted 26 Apr 2018 10:01 am
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Wow thanks. I’ll keep at it report back.
What do you all think of that pedal stop bolt hitting the body of the Guitar? Do you know what I mean? I can try to take a photo when I get home. |
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Richard Alderson
From: Illinois, USA
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Posted 26 Apr 2018 8:18 pm
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Dear Andrew - Why not take it to Bill Rudolph? Have it done by an expert? In the long run, no matter what else happens, having these simple adjustments done by a pro will increase the value of the guitar and the cost can be recovered in the use value of the guitar (it will perform more optimally) or the resale value (it will sell for more having been taken care of by a respected expert). Mr. Rudolph and his son of course are the builders of Williams Guitars, the shop is up there north of Minneapolis just a half an hour past Anoka.
Regarding the stop that hits the body, I also have a Derby, and it hasn't affected the guitar at all, or changed much after 5 years of use.
That guitar is gem, take good care of it and it will take good care of you, its a pretty special guitar. _________________ Derby SD-10 5x6; GFI S-10 5x5; GFI S-10 5x5; Zum D-10 8x7; Zum D-10 9x9; Fender 400; Fender Rumble 200; Nashville 400; Telonics TCA-500. |
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Sam Werbalowsky
From: New York, USA
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Posted 27 Apr 2018 7:21 am
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Thanks for the rodding charts and the split tuning options...got a used Derby SD-10 recently and wasn't quite sure how to use the splits...speaking of, does anyone know the size for the allen wrench for the split tuners? I don't have one handy. |
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