Adjusting All-Pull Tuning Nuts - Pedal engaged or Not?

Dan Robinson · From: Colorado, USA

I used to tune the stops on my Carter with pedal or knee lever engaged. But I noticed things not staying where I set them. So have tried a different method where I check with pedal engaged, then release to make the adjustment. Engage again to check, repeat as needed. It takes more presses, but the nuts turn with less resistance, and results seem to be more stable.

My hypothesis is that face of the nylon nut was getting gouged or deformed if turned whilst against the finger.

How do you other all-pull players do it?

Larry Allen · From: Kapaa, Kauai,Hawaii

Agreed, on my old ShoBud I use small flat washers with the nylon tuners, not an issue on my Excels, Larry😳
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Excel steels & Peavey amps,Old Chevys & Motorcycles & Women on the Trashy Side

Dan Robinson · From: Colorado, USA

Larry, my Sho-Bud has brass barrel tuning nuts. They can be adjusted only with the pedal or lever engaged. I continued doing the same when I got the Carter. Maybe that wasn't the best decision.

Why is it not an issue with the Excel?

Larry Allen · From: Kapaa, Kauai,Hawaii

The fingers are polished...the Excel plastic tuners seem to be a harder material than the ShoBud's..L
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Excel steels & Peavey amps,Old Chevys & Motorcycles & Women on the Trashy Side

Dan Robinson · From: Colorado, USA

So far Poll results are 7-to-7, a bit of a surprise.

Until recently I tuned with pedals engaged, and assumed that everyone else did the same. It never occurred to me to do otherwise when I got the Carter steel.

Have you changed your preferred technique over time, and why??

Being self taught I have surely missed a lot of important lessons. So I'm feeling little sprouts of self-doubt. This is, or should be pretty basic stuff. I learn a lot here on the forum, and welcome your guidance.

Thanks!
Dan

Jon Light (deceased) · From: Saugerties, NY

On any all-pull guitar I've played, if I tune the nut with the change engaged and release the pull and re-engage, it is not where I'd tuned it and needs adjustment. So it's 6 of one, half-doz the other if I tune it twice engaged or tune it relaxed, check the pull, adjust.

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

I Think you have the problem figured out. Now finding a cure.

Of guitars I have worked on there is a sleeve between the tuning nut and the changer finger. MSA has aluminum sleeve, My GFI has a plastic or nylon sleeve.
Most of the fingers on the changers I have seen have their holes drilled or stamped before the final bend on the rod tab is bent. most have a irregular surface around pull rod holes would catch the plastic nut and make it hard to turn.
A friend had the same problem and I made him a set of small brass sleeves about 1/8 wide and he put them behind ever tuning nut on the guitar he was working on.
Good Luck in a cure and easier tuning.

Tony Glassman · From: The Great Northwest

I always tune with pedals/levers disengaged. I want to minimize the load (friction) on the plastic threads so the tuning nuts last longer before getting loose and sloppy.

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

I basically do a little of each. If you do all the adjustment with the pedal engaged, it's hard to tell if the open string is being changed. Therefore, I mostly do the "small adjustment and release method", constantly checking it against the next strings with the pedal off. This eliminates any possibility of "over-tuning", where you're always chasing your tail to try and get the thing in tune.

I tune one open string using a reference (tuner, fork, or keyboard note) and then tune everything else, pedals and opens, by ear. I heartily recommend that every player learn that invaluable skill, as it will also help you with playing in tune.

Jack Stoner · From: Kansas City, MO

I've always released the pedal (or knee lever) before turning the nut. Just my way of doing it.

I tune with a Peterson tuner. I would hate to go back to totally tuning with a pitch pipe or tuning fork like I did in the old days (I started on guitar and lap steel in 1949).

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