And then she said...

Dick Sexton · From: Greenville, Ohio

Lets talk about the rule of dissimilar metals.

Recently I worked on a friends all pull steel, which uses an aluminum tube about 3/8" long between the nylon tuner and the changer finger on each pull rod. His problem was, a couple changes were not returning to the original note, coming up mostly sharp, but also intermittently flat. I found that the collar/tube(aluminum) had been damaged pulling up against the changer finger(stainless steel). The end of the aluminum tube had flattened and rolled inward and was dragging against the pull rod. This was noticed mainly on the raises for strings 5 & 6 of the E9th neck(pedals A&B).

I checked my own steels and found the same thing was happening. Aware of this problem, the next all pull steel I worked on, I immediate checked, it also had the same situation.

So... What is the fix? Ideally, replace the aluminum collars, done.

Short term, to get through a gig, session or what ever (probably last as long a new collar), is to remove any aluminum that is rolled to the inside (I used a sharp pointed pocket knife) so that the collar rides freely on the pull rod and then file the damaged end flat and square, flip the collar so that the once but now repaired damaged end is up against the nylon tuner.

Lesson:

Rule of dissimilar metals or materials. With movement, the softer of the two dissimilar metals or materials WILL sustain damage that can and may show up in a pedal steel guitar as a tuning issue.

I can not help but wonder how many instruments were sold off or traded, having a tuning issue that was completely correctable. FYI...

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

I know the problem. I was thinking my Derby had steel spacers, but they may have been aluminum. Anyway, I came across this a few times. It's something one needs to check periodically, particularly when tuning issues begin showing up.

Usually, the threads on the pull rod will hang up in the spacer and won't return properly....or will feel rough and uneven throughout the travel.

Some other guitars use a nylon or delrin spacer...never had any of those problems with these. They can still mushroom of course with enough use however.

Good tip Dick.

Jim Bob Sedgwick · From: Clinton, Missouri USA

I have played Williams guitars for 32 years now. Bill uses delrin spacers as opposed to metal and I have had NO problems with any of the 4 Williams I have owned. I guess Bill is onto something? Smile

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

I did not mean to single out Derby particularly, several guitars use a metal spacer. Pretty sure my Mullen did.

Nylon wears too with constant use.

I think the problem is caused by the repetitive hammering of the spacer against the scissors finger which happens over years of playing. There is a slight arc created by the eccentricity of movement, minimum as it is, that puts stress on one side of the spacer.

It's just something a player needs to check occasionally when doing your routine maintenance. Every guitar has something that needs to be addressed from time to time.

Thanks to Dick for the heads up re: these issues.

Jack Stoner · From: Kansas City, MO

I've seen one brand with a short nylon tuner and a spacer (probably aluminum). Why not just have a longer nylon tuner? The nylon tuners on my Franklin are 36 years old and still OK (and mostly tight).

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Bob Carlucci · From: Candor, New York, USA

Seen that a bunch of times.. Short term, flip them around, maybe add a tiny bit of white lube with a toothpick where the sleeve meets the hole in the changer finger.. I have fixed the same problem several times with a small file, sandpaper, a tiny flat washer and a tiny amount of grease, etc,, It should not ne that big of a problem really.. Best fix without new parts would be to file the contact end flat, and install a TINY flat washer between the spacer tube and changer finger.

What happens is this,, The washer now rotates slightly while being engaged and disengaged and stops the wear and galling in its tracks. As long as there is a tiny bit of lube there, the wear on those spacers stops when a washer is installed,, thats what I would do... .bob
_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!

no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......

Dick Sexton · From: Greenville, Ohio

Thanks Jerry, appreciated.

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

It has been my experience that using dissimilar metals is done to avoid galling that using aluminum touching aluminum causes. While I've seen some minor problems in using aluminum spacers, it is rare and does not warrant changing materials although Delrin works fine. I see more problems due to lack of upkeep and lubrication.

Jason Lynch · From: Essex, United Kingdom

The spacers on my BMI are not flat, but rounded against the finger. Guess it evens out the pull force?

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

I have 2 MSA steels built with the aluminum spacers on the pull rods. Had no problem with the one I played for 5 years gigging. Born July 9,1974, by MSA records. I have only had one off and it looked like the mechanic who had worked on the steel when I got it, Or at the factory had countersunk the hole so it would not collapse in and catch the threads on the pull rod, And cause that problem. Countersink the hole slightly may be the cure.

Rex Mayfield · From: Texas, USA

Just a thought......... a washer with a rounded side against the changer finger??? Feedback?

Bob Carlucci · From: Candor, New York, USA

John Polstra · From: Lopez Island, WA, USA

The vintage Sierras used nylon bushings, with a short one drilled to fit crossways over the pull rod to cushion the pull. It works great. My Sierra Crown series steel is from the 80s and shows no wear on the bushings. Here's a diagram from the Sierra manual:

John

John Wilson · From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho

I have seen on several guitars, where after market rods have been added, that if the end thread is cut too deep (long) into the rod, that the friction of the rod will elongate the changer hole. If the rod is made from soft material, the threads get worn at the changer contact point.
BMI had the best solution for this, with rounded nylon tuners that "located" into a slightly beveled hole on the changer.

J.
_________________
Customer: "Waiter, how do you prepare your chicken?"
Waiter: "We usually tell them they're not going to make it."

John Wilson · From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho

I have seen on several guitars, where after market rods have been added, that if the end thread is cut too deep (long) into the rod, that the friction of the rod will elongate the changer hole. If the rod is made from soft material, the threads get worn at the changer contact point.
BMI had the best solution for this, with rounded nylon tuners that "located" into a slightly beveled hole on the changer.

J.
_________________
Customer: "Waiter, how do you prepare your chicken?"
Waiter: "We usually tell them they're not going to make it."

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