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Topic: 1958 T8 Restoration |
Russ Cudney
From:
Sonoma, California, USA
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Posted 26 Dec 2014 9:52 am |
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I found this carcass on eBay and I decided to restore it as a "player". I had plenty of extra parts, but wasn't too concerned with how year correct the parts were. I have two pickup/bridge plates that have serial numbers. I just blanked out the extra holes with stainless carriage bolts. I was going to re-spray, but I decided I liked the "used" finish.
Here's how I got it off eBay:
First off it looked like whoever parted this out was trying to pry off the fretboards. After bending too much I guess they decided to leave them alone:
I popped out the brads and straightened/glued back to normal.
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1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1 |
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Russ Cudney
From:
Sonoma, California, USA
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Posted 26 Dec 2014 9:59 am
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Next, I needed six pickups, and two covers.
Bobbin fabrication:
Setting up the winder for the Stringmaster pickups:
8353 winds should do the trick...
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1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1 |
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Russ Cudney
From:
Sonoma, California, USA
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Posted 26 Dec 2014 10:04 am
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I have 4 pickup covers, but needed two more.
With some Strat covers, ABS cement and ABS pickguard sheets, I was able to fabricate two:
_________________
1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1 |
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Russ Cudney
From:
Sonoma, California, USA
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Posted 26 Dec 2014 10:07 am
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While I still had everything apart I test cut a couple of pickup/bridge plates with the laser cutter.
I will cut a bunch with the water-jet when I restore my Quad.
_________________
1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1 |
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Russ Cudney
From:
Sonoma, California, USA
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Posted 26 Dec 2014 10:12 am
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Setup:
... and finished:
It sounds great. I'll post some sound bites when I get it more broke in.
_________________
1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1 |
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Jeff Mead
From:
London, England
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Posted 26 Dec 2014 10:42 am
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Great job on getting another Stringmaster up and running again.
I really like the worn finish too.
How does the switching work?
Looking forward to seeing your Quad restore! |
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Russ Cudney
From:
Sonoma, California, USA
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Posted 26 Dec 2014 11:08 am
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Thanks Jeff
Both switches left front neck, both switches right far neck. One left one right middle neck.
Tunings from front out are E7, C6, and A6. Almost never use the A6 so I may go to E13.
_________________
1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1 |
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Paul Honeycutt
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 27 Dec 2014 9:00 am
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Nice to see another old guitar brought back to life!
Are you doing any kind of blend between the pickups or are they both full on all the time? |
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Russ Cudney
From:
Sonoma, California, USA
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Posted 27 Dec 2014 10:00 am
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Hi Paul,
Yes, I wired in the blend which I really like. I took liberties on the magnets when I made the pickups. Alnico 2 at the board, and Alnico 5 at the bridge. Wiring is stock Fender except for the neck switching.
_________________
1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1 |
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Mark Roeder
From:
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA
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Roger Guyett
From:
San Francisco, Ca.
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Posted 29 Dec 2014 7:08 pm
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Very nice!
Great choice to keep the original finish. |
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Dave Alfstad
From:
Indianola, IA USA
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Posted 17 Jul 2017 5:13 am
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I know that this is kind of resurrecting an old post, but that restoration looks great! I found this post while searching for info for my own project. I just acquired a mid-fifties Stringmaster that originally had the push-button switiches. Long ago those switches were removed and the guitar was wired so that all three necks are on all the time. I am going to rewire it with toggle switches. What kind of switches did you use in this restoration? Will they go right in the holes, or did you have to drill it out? Also, how do they function? In other words, how did you wire them?
I would really appreciate your advice. Thanks! |
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Russ Cudney
From:
Sonoma, California, USA
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Posted 20 Jul 2017 8:37 pm
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| Dave Alfstad wrote: |
I know that this is kind of resurrecting an old post, but that restoration looks great! I found this post while searching for info for my own project. I just acquired a mid-fifties Stringmaster that originally had the push-button switiches. Long ago those switches were removed and the guitar was wired so that all three necks are on all the time. I am going to rewire it with toggle switches. What kind of switches did you use in this restoration? Will they go right in the holes, or did you have to drill it out? Also, how do they function? In other words, how did you wire them?
I would really appreciate your advice. Thanks! |
Hi, sorry late response, but I just got back to Cali from Nashville. I just used LP toggles. I had to ream the holes.
_________________
1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1 |
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Jeff Mead
From:
London, England
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Posted 20 Jul 2017 10:39 pm
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| Russ Cudney wrote: |
| Hi, sorry late response, but I just got back to Cali from Nashville. I just used LP toggles. I had to ream the holes. |
How do they work? LP toggles are 3 way. I used straight on/off switches on mine - one for each neck.
I'm working with a friend on a doubleneck restore and were wondering about using a LP toggle instead of a blade switch as we actually have a plate from a triple, although will probably go for two separate on/off switches as that worked great on my quad. |
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Dave Alfstad
From:
Indianola, IA USA
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Posted 21 Jul 2017 4:50 am
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Thanks for the replies!
I posted this question in another thread that I started because I didn't know if folks would read to the end of an older thread to see my questions. Would you please read my other post about how to wire the switches to get the results I want?
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=2649389#2649389[/url] |
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