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Topic: rack n barrel detuning problem |
Cameron Kerby
From: Rutledge, TN
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Posted 3 Jul 2017 9:04 am
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I have tried almost all of the trouble shooting I've seen on the rack n barrel bud guitars on the forum. On changes such as the G# to A on the 3rd string, to tune the pedals its simply pulling the changer too far and detuning the string. Anybody ran into this problem? _________________ Sho Bud Steel Guitars
Vintage Peavey Amplification |
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Ian Worley
From: Sacramento, CA
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Posted 3 Jul 2017 10:41 am
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Your description is a bit vague, are you saying that when you tune the A note at the end plate the G# returns sharp when you release the pedal? If so, you need to increase the range of travel on the pedal. Just think of it in terms of the two pitches -- you need more distance between them. The little stop screw on the L bracket on the front apron controls this, just back it out a little and re-tune the pull. Repeat until you get it right. Ideally the pull rod will have just a tiny bit of slack at the changer when the pedal is released.
If the issue is something different please explain what is happening in more detail |
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Lane Gray
From: Topeka, KS
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Posted 3 Jul 2017 2:48 pm
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What Ian said. If you mean "If the pedal pulls to A, spinning the rod changes the G#", you're overtuned. First try backing off the barrel a full 5 or 6 turns, tune the G# and try tuning again. If the problem persists, add some pedal travel.
If, on the other hand, you mean that "my G# is in tune, and my A is in tune, but it doesn't always return to the G#", it might need a drop of lube on the three pivot rivets. Either a spray of Triflow or equivalent, or an oiler with a tube. See the bits with red dots.
_________________ 2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Cameron Kerby
From: Rutledge, TN
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Posted 4 Jul 2017 6:01 pm
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You all explained it better than I could. When I tune the pedal to A it returns the G# sharp. Ian, I really think that adding pedal travel like you suggested is part of the fix. But how do you know when you have too much travel? Lane, I made sure to use triflow when I reassembled the changer but may need to add some more depending on the string. I've turned the racks around like Michael Yahl said in an earlier post, which keeps the tuning a lot tighter. The only problem I seem to still be having now is the rods with multiple barrels. Should I tune the barrel closest to the changer first? With 2 changes on one string, it makes it harder to isolate the over tuning problem. Thanks guys, you all have been a huge help. _________________ Sho Bud Steel Guitars
Vintage Peavey Amplification |
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Lane Gray
From: Topeka, KS
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Posted 4 Jul 2017 6:59 pm
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I'd tune the one with the smallest change first, so the F lever before the C pedal.
You'll know you have a lot of pedal or lever travel that's not changing pitches.
Some slack is good, it keeps the active barrel from interfering with the other changes on that rod. More than enough is wasted. _________________ 2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Andy DePaule
From: Saigon, Viet Nam & Springfield, Oregon
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Posted 5 Jul 2017 8:46 am Check the barrel spring
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Check the barrel spring to be sure that the tip of the spring is coming through the tiny hole and catching on the top or bottom of the rack.
If not, replace the spring and make sure the tip of the new spring is well over the rack so it catches.
Those springs can be bought at any good hardware shop and cut and bent to work.
Needless to say there should be a little space between the rack and the barrel before you engage the pedal, about 1/16th inch is good. _________________ Inlaid Star Guitar 2006 by Mark Giles. SD-10 4+5 in E9th; http://luthiersupply.com/instrument-gallery.html
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project. |
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