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Post new topic Sho Bud PRO III Pedal Travel
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Author Topic:  Sho Bud PRO III Pedal Travel
Kent Viles

 

From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 4 Apr 2017 5:24 pm    
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I've been learning on a maple 3 pedal 1 knee Sho Bud for the past year. Just upgraded to a PRO III. My question is... With AB pedals down on my old Maple, rolling off the A keeping B down was a simple compact movement, very little travel with minimal pressure. Like wise when rolling off of B while keeping A down, very simple ankle movement. Now, on the PRO III the movement is very much exaggerated, feel like I'm almost twisting my ankle out of joint to get the full movement. I have tried the pedal rods in all three holes, longest travel to shortest and while the shortest of course provides the most tension, it is still a long motion and undesirable because of the tension and really doesn't improve the travel much. Am I missing an adjustment to lessen the pedal travel movement? Can the pedal stop be closer to shorten the entire pedal travel and still be able to tune my knees? Thanks in advance!
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Dave Meis


From:
Olympic Peninsula, Washington, USA
Post  Posted 4 Apr 2017 7:20 pm    
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Where the pedal rods attach to the guitar, there are 3 different holes..the closet to the cross shaft will have the 'quickest' pull. Beyond that, there are 2 threaded holes in the pedals themselves that you can screw the 'zirc' fitting into. The one furthest from the pedal bar offers the 'quickest' pull. Beyond that, there's where the rods hook onto the bell cranks. The furthest from the body give you the 'quickest' pull, and, finally, at the changer, they hole closest to the axle gives you the 'quickest' pull. I'd start with the rod connection at the cross shaft, and the 'zirc' fitting on the pedal itself.. they're easier! Good luck..you'll get it. Smile
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Kent Viles

 

From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 4 Apr 2017 7:33 pm    
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Thanks, I've tried the connection at the cross shaft. I'll try the other suggestions. Appreciate it.
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Kent Viles

 

From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 5 Apr 2017 8:18 am    
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Thanks Dave, did the first two and there is some improvement. Not seeing an option of how the rod connects to the bell crank? I appreciate you taking the time.
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Kent Viles

 

From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 5 Apr 2017 9:05 am    
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This seems obvious but anything I do to lessen pedal travel will increase the pedal pressure?
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Dave Meis


From:
Olympic Peninsula, Washington, USA
Post  Posted 5 Apr 2017 10:20 am    
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The bell crank, which rotates when the cross shaft turns should have at least 4 holes, which in playing position (ie, right side up) would be vertical. My Pro 3 has 4 hole bellcranks, and others may have different. the only ones I know of that would have only 1 were 'rack and barrel', and I don't think they made any Pro 3's like that. The actual pull rod goes from the changer to the bell crank, and you should be able to change that connection point at the bell crank.
Yes..any set up that would give you more pull would be harder to use (less mechanical advantage). You'll get it! Smile
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Dave Meis


From:
Olympic Peninsula, Washington, USA
Post  Posted 5 Apr 2017 10:25 am    
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A little 'follow up'.. the pull rods on mine connect to the bell crank with carburetor linkage retainers .. maybe that'll help you locate 'em..
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Kent Viles

 

From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 5 Apr 2017 10:34 am    
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Thanks Dave!
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Ronnie Boettcher


From:
Brunswick Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 5 Apr 2017 7:22 pm    
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Kent, if your PRO lll only has 2 holes on the bell crank, and you would like more, do what I have done on my LDG. I made a steel strip longer than the 2 hole puller, to give me 2 more holes for the pull rod. drilled 4, 1/4" holes in it, so I could use bolts and nuts to bolt on to the existing 2 holes, and that gave me 2 more holes for a shorter pull. It might look a little mickey mouse, but solved the problem. If you do that, and you do not like it, unbolt the extended rod, and your back to original.
_________________
Sho-Bud LDG, Martin D28, Ome trilogy 5 string banjo, Ibanez 4-string bass, dobro, fiddle, and a tubal cain. Life Member of AFM local 142
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Bob Metzger

 

From:
Waltham (Boston), MA, USA
Post  Posted 6 Apr 2017 10:32 am    
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Kent,

Years ago, I went from my Sho-Bud 6139 to a Pro III Custom and I noticed the same ankle phenomenon that Kent is talking about. My birdcage 6139 had incredibly short quick throws and the Pro III's were much longer but it changed my style of playing. It took me a long time to adapt - but adapt I did. Now I prefer the longer pedal throw and all the half-pedaling you can do. Stick with it, there are rewards to be found in both of these steel geometries; your body will adapt.

Bob M.
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Bob M.
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