| Author |
Topic: Anybody build a metric pedal steel? |
Karlis Abolins
From:
(near) Seattle, WA, USA
|
Posted 1 Mar 2005 10:23 am |
|
I'm wondering whether anyone has decided to scrap the decimal inches for good old metric when designing and building a pedal steel. I'm well into the project and am constantly frustrated by fractions like 11/32" (0.34375").
What got me thinking about metric is a bathroom remodel project. The sink I bought comes from Australia and all of the dimensions are metric with approximations for inches. In designing the cabinet, I finally went to the hardware store and bought a metric tape. It just makes a lot of sense. I may switch to metric on my next guitar (if I ever get that far) but wonder what experiences any of you builders have had with metric construction.
Karlis |
|
|
 |
Ray Minich
From:
Bradford, Pa. Frozen Tundra
|
Posted 1 Mar 2005 10:40 am
|
|
Draw the whole thing up in inches units with a CAD system, then have the system convert the units to millimeters (or furlongs if you prefer...). Great way to cheat.
Now, when it comes to building the darn thing, you gotta have a measuring stick in the units of the drawing or else your gonna make a mistake.
So far, the longest, biggest set of dial calipers I've seen was 3 meters long. You didn't carry it very far.
I think perhaps the most common wall covering in most machine shops and toolrooms is the National Twist Drill (or maybe Cleveland Twist Drill) drill size & fraction chart. Gets looked at a LOT more times than most will admit.[This message was edited by Ray Minich on 01 March 2005 at 10:42 AM.] |
|
|
|
Ron !
|
Posted 1 Mar 2005 11:30 am
|
|
Yes I did and still do.Metric is the way for me as inch is the way for you.A lot of country's use metric but the steel guitar builders around the world all use inches.
Look at the posts on the forum when some builder or player asks about the scale.Everybody asks in inches and not in Millimeters.
If that would be converted into Millimeters everybody would lose track.
my 2 cents.
Ron
------------------
Nikaro SD10 4x6 ,Nikaro SD10 4x5,2 Peavey Ultratube 112
European Steel Guitar Forum
|
|
|
|
richard burton
From:
Britain
|
Posted 1 Mar 2005 12:14 pm
|
|
Metric is OK, but not when it comes to threads.
If your threading into aluminium, metric threads are too fine. Whitworth or UNC is the way to go.
Just my humble opinion
R B |
|
|
|
Ron !
|
Posted 1 Mar 2005 12:39 pm
|
|
You are right when it comes to threads.At least with steelguitar legs.They are best screwed on using Whitworth.For the rest on the steel guitar parts(if you want to use Threads)you can use metric perfectly.
Ron
------------------
Nikaro SD10 4x6 ,Nikaro SD10 4x5,2 Peavey Ultratube 112
European Steel Guitar Forum
[This message was edited by Ronald Steenwijk on 01 March 2005 at 12:41 PM.] |
|
|
|
Karlis Abolins
From:
(near) Seattle, WA, USA
|
Posted 1 Mar 2005 12:46 pm
|
|
Ron, What spacing do you use for strings - pickup, changer, nut? Do you go with english spacings or do you adjust them for convenient metric spacing?
Karlis |
|
|
|
Danny James
From:
Summerfield Florida USA
|
Posted 1 Mar 2005 5:06 pm
|
|
For whatever it's worth metric conversion is not all that hard.
1 mm. = .03937 inches
1 inch = 25.4 mm.
1 meter = 39.37 inches
All you need is a calculator and it's quick and simple.
Good luck,
Danny |
|
|
|
Ron !
|
|
|
|
Wayne Carver
From:
Martinez, Georgia, USA
|
Posted 2 Mar 2005 10:19 am
|
|
| It's a lot easier to measure a fret board in milimeters than inches. |
|
|
|
Bobby Lee
From:
Cloverdale, California, USA
|
Posted 2 Mar 2005 12:23 pm
|
|
I really like the 635 mm scale on my Sierra Session.  |
|
|
|
Doug Seymour
From:
Jamestown NY USA (deceased)
|
Posted 2 Mar 2005 12:28 pm
|
|
| My keyless Excel S10 is metric isn't it? I think the parts are? |
|
|
|
Danny James
From:
Summerfield Florida USA
|
Posted 2 Mar 2005 12:44 pm
|
|
Thanks Ron, I't looks like your chart when applied should answere most questions concerning metric conversions.
I retired from Cummins Diesel Enging Co. 18 yrs ago, and got into conversions when they were in the process of changing their dimensioning methods.
Danny |
|
|
|
Ray Minich
From:
Bradford, Pa. Frozen Tundra
|
Posted 2 Mar 2005 1:58 pm
|
|
Ya'all make sure ya use them Geometric Tolerancing symbols on yer drawings too!
(Can of worms, easily opened, never then closed ) |
|
|
|
Lonnie Portwood
From:
Jacksonville, fl. USA
|
Posted 2 Mar 2005 3:05 pm
|
|
| It won't work! You'll be either sharp or flat every time you play an american tune, plus, your bar would have to milled smaller than 7/8" or 1", in order to arrive at proper spot on fretboard. plus you'd have to carry two sets of tools to work on the doggone thing. It just don't seem practical to me. Another thing, are you going to use 1/4" jacks for the coax? If you don't, nothing will enterchange with the equipment we are using today. Good Luck, don't give up! I still believe anything is possible. LLP |
|
|
|
Farris Currie
From:
Ona, Florida, USA, R.I.P.
|
Posted 2 Mar 2005 3:25 pm
|
|
| Don't need to get started on this!!owning a machine shopfor 35yrs.in america!!my mics are all american,i only stock american bolt sizes.ever time a tractor came in from overseas,we had to tap the holes to mount any equipment on them.you have to have two sets of wrenches to work on a truck.older laths ect all american threads ect.we were told 30years ago it was coming,just like cnc machines.thank the good LORD, i retired before it came into effect. farris |
|
|
|
John Drury
From:
Gallatin, Tn USA
|
Posted 2 Mar 2005 5:18 pm
|
|
Picking out string guages should be a lot of fun!
------------------
John Drury
NTSGA #3
|
|
|
|
Lonnie Portwood
From:
Jacksonville, fl. USA
|
Posted 2 Mar 2005 8:23 pm
|
|
| Lonnie,now dat there wuz FUNNY, I don't care what yousay!! dat ther wuz funny. John, dat was funny, to, man dat was funny! LLP |
|
|
|
Karlis Abolins
From:
(near) Seattle, WA, USA
|
Posted 3 Mar 2005 12:38 pm
|
|
I looked up fret calculations for metric and found the Stewmac online fret calculator. I converted my 24.5 inch scale to millimeters and got 622.3 millimetersa (mm). I entered the values in the calculator and got the following
622 mm Fret scale
fret from nut fret to fret
1 34.910 mm 34.910 mm (nut-1)
2 67.861 mm 32.951 mm (1-2)
3 98.962 mm 31.101 mm (2-3)
4 128.318 mm 29.356 mm (3-4)
5 156.026 mm 27.708 mm (4-5)
6 182.180 mm 26.153 mm (5-6)
7 206.865 mm 24.685 mm (6-7)
8 230.165 mm 23.300 mm (7-
9 252.157 mm 21.992 mm (8-9)
10 272.914 mm 20.758 mm (9-10)
11 292.507 mm 19.593 mm (10-11)
12 311.000 mm 18.493 mm (11-12)
13 328.455 mm 17.455 mm (12-13)
14 344.930 mm 16.475 mm (13-14)
15 360.481 mm 15.551 mm (14-15)
16 375.159 mm 14.678 mm (15-16)
17 389.013 mm 13.854 mm (16-17)
18 402.090 mm 13.077 mm (17-1
19 414.432 mm 12.343 mm (18-19)
20 426.082 mm 11.650 mm (19-20)
21 437.078 mm 10.996 mm (20-21)
22 447.457 mm 10.379 mm (21-22)
23 457.253 mm 9.796 mm (22-23)
24 466.500 mm 9.247 mm (23-24)
(I rounded down to the nearest mm - 622). With this scale I don't have to change string gauges from my customary set. For string spacing, I will use 8.5 mm and no one will ever notice. I have a changer from one of the major manufacturers which has an 8.5 mm spacing and I have never seen anyone complain about it being metric, it just doesn't quite fit exactly with my 11/32 spacing on my pickups but it is certainly close enough.
I see more and more reasons to go metric and fewer to stick with inches.
Karlis |
|
|
|
