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Topic: Sho Bud Rack and Barrel |
Wayne Ledbetter
From: Arkansas, USA
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Posted 18 Nov 2016 6:46 am
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Gentlemen
I notice from time to time the Ole rack and barrel or hole pullers with barrels. There's a wire/ spring that sticks out a little from the barrel. What's the significance of that? Actually the system kind of eludes me. I assume the leg rods pull in a torsion effect the rack. Which then pulls on the changer rod raising the string. Wouldn't the wire sticking out get wore or bent? Guess you need to see one kind of working, huh? _________________ Sho Bud Super Pro, Fender Twin Reissue, Martin HD-28, Gibson J-45, Gibson RB-250,Stelling Bellflower,Regal Dobro, Takamine and Alvarez Classical, Fender Telecaster, Peavey Studio Pro 112. Mainly played Gospel and some bluegrass. |
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Lane Gray
From: Topeka, KS
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Posted 18 Nov 2016 10:47 am
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The wire catches on the rack or the swivel, so that the short end stays stationary while the long end spins with the rod.
Without it, friction between barrel and rack/swivel won't always be greater than the friction between the threads.
You seem to understand it: pedal moves rack, which tugs the barrel, which moves the rod, which moves the finger. _________________ 2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Dave Meis
From: Olympic Peninsula, Washington, USA
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Posted 18 Nov 2016 10:49 am
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The little 'tab' is part of the spring. The barrels can only be adjusted when the pedal or lever is engaged and the barrel is in contact with the rack (or 2 hole puller). When you adjust the length of the barrel, that tab will engage 'something', and allow you to adjust the length by screwing the two pieces of the 'barrel' longer or shorter. If the tab hits part of the rack during normal operation, it just recedes into the barrel end and doesn't affect the action of it. Hope this helps.
Seems I was typing at same time time Lane was. |
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Wayne Ledbetter
From: Arkansas, USA
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Posted 18 Nov 2016 6:06 pm Ok
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Thanks guys for information. I searched it on forum. There are some pictures but not definitive enough to show me how it works. _________________ Sho Bud Super Pro, Fender Twin Reissue, Martin HD-28, Gibson J-45, Gibson RB-250,Stelling Bellflower,Regal Dobro, Takamine and Alvarez Classical, Fender Telecaster, Peavey Studio Pro 112. Mainly played Gospel and some bluegrass. |
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Lane Gray
From: Topeka, KS
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Posted 18 Nov 2016 6:21 pm
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Did I get it explained enough? _________________ 2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Wayne Ledbetter
From: Arkansas, USA
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Posted 18 Nov 2016 7:17 pm Ok
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Lane
Just a little confused. I kind of thought the Allen socket end at the changer would be like the plastic tuners on modern steels. Clockwise or counterclockwise at the socket and the barrel would move up to or away from the rack. Making the appropriate adjustments. It sounds like the barrel is two piece? Is that right? Maybe my original assumption of the pull rod and barrel being adjusted at the changer end is not 100% correct. _________________ Sho Bud Super Pro, Fender Twin Reissue, Martin HD-28, Gibson J-45, Gibson RB-250,Stelling Bellflower,Regal Dobro, Takamine and Alvarez Classical, Fender Telecaster, Peavey Studio Pro 112. Mainly played Gospel and some bluegrass. |
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Craig A Davidson
From: Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin USA
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Posted 18 Nov 2016 7:45 pm
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One thing that works nice with those barrels is that if you can't get things in tune is you can loosen the allen screw that holds it on the pull rod, tighten it up and then back it out 3-4 turns, put it against the puller again and tighten the screw back up. This almost always will get you back in tuning range. |
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Skip Edwards
From: LA,CA
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Posted 18 Nov 2016 8:24 pm
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The allen socket is like the plastic tuners on modern steels... sort of.
It's the opposite of a modern steel. The socket is fixed to the rod, and the entire rod swivels when you turn the socket. The barrel adjusts in and out in length to make the tuning adjustment. When a rack is activated by a pedal or KL, the barrel is tight up against the rack which allows it to turn, and screw itself in or out. Also, the spring nub catches on the rack and makes it all happen.
In other words, the barrels are doing the same job as the nylon tuners, only at the opposite end of the rod.
A great system, really. Very versatile... allows for unlimited raises and lowers, as well as compensators. |
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Tom Wolverton
From: Carpinteria, CA
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Posted 19 Nov 2016 7:57 am
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The little tail of the spring sticking out is vital to the barrel working correctly. It catches on the rack (or puller) and holds one part of the barrel stationary while tuning. The otherside screws in and out making the barrel shorter or longer, thus changing the tuning. Sometimes people clip that spring tail off which wrecks the barrel. That little tail is vital. _________________ To write with a broken pencil is pointless. |
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John Billings
From: Ohio, USA
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Posted 19 Nov 2016 1:40 pm
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I love rack and barrel guitars! Wanna change your tuning/cope? No sweat! Takes very little time. _________________ Dr. Z Surgical Steel amp, amazing!
"74 Bud S-10 3&6
'73 Bud S-10 3&5(under construction)
'63 Fingertip S-10, at James awaiting 6 knees
'57 Strat, LP Blue
'91 Tele with 60's Maple neck
Dozen more guitars!
Dozens of amps, but SF Quad reverb, Rick Johnson cabs. JBL 15, '64 Vibroverb for at home.
'52 and '56 Pro Amps |
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Lane Gray
From: Topeka, KS
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Posted 19 Nov 2016 2:57 pm
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Yes, the barrel is two pieces.
To word Skip's reply just a little differently:
Take a close look at the barrel. The bit that the bit of wire pokes out of is the male thread (and does the actual tuning), the big bit is the female thread and is tightly screwed to the rod, and the spring keeps tension on the threads so they won't wiggle around.
When you spin the rod with the wrench, the bit of poky spring holds the male half of the barrel still, and the female half moves in or out.
It's dead clever. _________________ 2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Wayne Ledbetter
From: Arkansas, USA
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Posted 19 Nov 2016 3:33 pm Ok
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Thanks everyone. Lane that little extra explanation cleared up my confusion. I have seen steels with that type system and hadn't quite got a handle on the process. I guess I'm kind of into older or nostalgic things. I've seen several on the forum. They say they have the Ole sound. _________________ Sho Bud Super Pro, Fender Twin Reissue, Martin HD-28, Gibson J-45, Gibson RB-250,Stelling Bellflower,Regal Dobro, Takamine and Alvarez Classical, Fender Telecaster, Peavey Studio Pro 112. Mainly played Gospel and some bluegrass. |
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Dan Robinson
From: Colorado, USA
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Posted 19 Nov 2016 9:03 pm
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Wayne, I can share a few things that James Morehead taught me about "barrel maintenance."
Have a look at all of them. Check wire tip, as it can break. Repair is possible using the original spring wire. Bend a new end to pass through the tiny hole, and cut with snips to remove excess wire.
Old barrels can stand a good cleaning. Take them apart remove gunk and grime with solvent, orange based cleaner, or goo-gone.
When you re-assemble them DON'T LUBRICATE.
The set screw that locks the barrel to the tuning rod does a lot of work for its size. If your allen wrench slips you can replace the screws. I have heard of folks enlarging the hole, tapping threads and using a larger set screw.
Michael Yahl makes barrels and pull-rods with the hex ends, http://psgparts.com/Pull-Rods_c7.htm
The rack-and-barrel system is great for copedent exploration. Please tell us more about your ShoBud. I would love to see pictures.
Here's mine:
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Tom Wolverton
From: Carpinteria, CA
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Posted 20 Nov 2016 12:22 am
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My opinion: do not cut the wire flush or the barrel will not tune correctly _________________ To write with a broken pencil is pointless. |
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Lane Gray
From: Topeka, KS
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Posted 20 Nov 2016 5:47 am
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Tom Wolverton wrote: |
My opinion: do not cut the wire flush or the barrel will not tune correctly |
That's no more opinion than my opinion that water boils at 100°C (at sea level). _________________ 2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Ian Worley
From: Sacramento, CA
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Posted 20 Nov 2016 1:34 pm
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Lane Gray wrote: |
Tom Wolverton wrote: |
My opinion: do not cut the wire flush or the barrel will not tune correctly |
That's no more opinion than my opinion that water boils at 100°C (at sea level). |
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Larry Robertson
From: Denver, Colorado, USA
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Posted 20 Nov 2016 4:08 pm
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Lane: Don't forget atmospheric conditions. Like inside an auto radiator at 15 psi. or at 10,000 ft altitude _________________ Website: www.Music2myEars.net
MSA D-10, Carter U12, Fessy SDU-12,Emmons P/P D-10, Emmons P/P U-12,Emmons S-10 ShoBud SuperPro, Lap steel, keyboards, 6-string Guitars.. too many |
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Tom Wolverton
From: Carpinteria, CA
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Posted 20 Nov 2016 9:02 pm
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Well you know, opinions are like bung holes. Everyone has one. No one needs another, and they all stink. : ) _________________ To write with a broken pencil is pointless. |
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Tom Gorr
From: Three Hills, Alberta
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Posted 20 Nov 2016 9:15 pm
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A few of the little pokey on the end of my barrel springs are worn off so they don't catch in their making holes... really need to get a few new springs somewhere.
H |
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Lane Gray
From: Topeka, KS
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Posted 20 Nov 2016 9:27 pm
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Tom, further up the page is this bit, if you're halfway handy:
Quote: |
Have a look at all of them. Check wire tip, as it can break. Repair is possible using the original spring wire. Bend a new end to pass through the tiny hole, and cut with snips to remove excess wire. |
_________________ 2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Tom Quinn
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Posted 21 Nov 2016 8:55 am
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My second favorite guitar after push pull Emmons. I've owned four different D-10 R&Bs over the years, all sounded great and were beautiful to look at. _________________ I need an Emmons! |
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